New to me 2013 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[TeCKis300]

I would agree that replacement is the best strategy. At the same time, the OPs radiator at 60k miles has useful life left in it. Choose your own poison.

Exactly this.

Plus, even if the crack never actually fails, the upper inlet will look like the below picture by 120k. Putting plastic into cooling systems is an unfortunate reality these days.

View attachment 3087825

I don't recall mine replaced at 120k looking anything like that, or standing out for that matter. Would be interesting to know if it's brittle with a destructive test? Looks like the high mileage T fittings on the 100-series that would crumple.

 

[bloc]

I would agree that replacement is the best strategy. At the same time, the OPs radiator at 60k miles has useful life left in it. Choose your own poison.



I don't recall mine replaced at 120k looking anything like that, or standing out for that matter. Would be interesting to know if it's brittle with a destructive test? Looks like the high mileage T fittings on the 100-series that would crumple.

This did have a couple weeks to dry out. It wasn’t that obvious when it first came out of the truck.. but clearly that plastic has degraded on some level. Also the lower outlet which flows water that has already been through the rad wasn’t like this at all, so definitely a heat issue.

 

[Bryanmc]

How did your crack look compared to mine? If you remember? I have an apt on 8/29 to get done through Toyota, it’s my daily so hoping it makes it a couple weeks? Thanks

I don’t know, I didn’t know early radiator fails were a thing when I bought mine. Just noticed it one day and then found the discussions here about it.

 

[grinchy]

Here’s what an epoxy might look like about two years after applying. I’ll get around to the radiator some time. My crack was much worse than OP , well out beyond the rectangle thing.
I do need to fix the foam filler between front and radiator though. That’s looking mighty degraded.

 

[LC CT]

Got around to do the AHC flush today. Fluid was super gross. Not a bad job just time consuming, would have taken pic but it was a solo project and bleeding everything was pretty damn messy. Went through 2 of the metal containers of suspension fluid. $59/jug. Ride definitely feels smoother, at least that’s what i think, our roads up here suck pretty bad so this was a must.

 

[TeCKis300]

Here’s what an epoxy might look like about two years after applying. I’ll get around to the radiator some time. My crack was much worse than OP , well out beyond the rectangle thing.
I do need to fix the foam filler between front and radiator though. That’s looking mighty degraded.

View attachment 3088437

Well done. I know many aren't comfortable with "glue". Modern adhesives and epoxies aren't your childhood Elmers glue. These adhesives literally from the basis of modern structures that are more often than not bonded similarly. Composite aircraft are often built and repaired similarly. I would trust other parts of the radiator to fail ahead of this.

 

[LC CT]

Here’s what an epoxy might look like about two years after applying. I’ll get around to the radiator some time. My crack was much worse than OP , well out beyond the rectangle thing.
I do need to fix the foam filler between front and radiator though. That’s looking mighty degraded.

View attachment 3088437

Looks great, what kind of epoxy specifically did you use for this? Looks like it’s holding up just fine

 

[grinchy]

Looks great, what kind of epoxy specifically did you use for this? Looks like it’s holding up just fine

JB weld plastic bonder.
I think putting a sheet of fiberglass in it too would be even better.
I sanded pretty aggressively.
Post in thread 'The Guzzler - 2009 LX570'
Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-guzzler-2009-lx570.1052021/post-13153312

 

[LC CT]

JB weld plastic bonder.
I think putting a sheet of fiberglass in it too would be even better.
I sanded pretty aggressively.
Post in thread 'The Guzzler - 2009 LX570'
Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-guzzler-2009-lx570.1052021/post-13153312

Damn that’s awesome. Nice work. Probably should have tried this first. Be nice to save a thousand bucks right off the bat but I guess I’ll keep the apt to do the radiator, might throw this on for the next 2 weeks though. Looks like it held great.

 

[grinchy]

Damn that’s awesome. Nice work. Probably should have tried this first. Be nice to save a thousand bucks right off the bat but I guess I’ll keep the apt to do the radiator, might throw this on for the next 2 weeks though. Looks like it held great.

Certainly it's just a stop-gap idea. Up to the individual how big the gap should be . . .

 

[LC CT]

Small update. Driving the truck on a cooler marking it feels wayyyy better bumps/vibration wise. I’m wondering if it has to do with the suspension fluid heating up? Maybe I got air in the system when bleeding it that’s causing an issue when it hears up. I used a brake bleeder bottle, I may grab another jug of fluid and try to flush for air, any tips to flushing the air? Is it easier with a larger bottle? Like a water bottle with a tube going in rather then the tiny brake bleed bottle. I’ve never been great at bleeding brakes but this seems easier then brakes.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

I replaced the radiator in our 2013 LX (~118k miles) back in February of this year. When I say I replaced it, I did it myself.

New OEM radiator from Lagrange Toyota - $310
New upper and lower hoses - $50
2 gallons of coolant - $70

A Transmission service should be included in this. At least a drop and fill. I chose to drop the pan, clean it, the magnets and put a new filter and gasket on and refill with ~5.5 quarts of Amsoil OE Fluid.

Took me about 6 hours total, a few of those hours were spent screwing with a couple of things a DIY'er would struggle with - I put one of the hoses in with the wrong sequence, should have done the other end first and something else, I forgot.

But all told, I have a new, "Fixed" radiator (versus the GM route of installing the same part that will fail again), new upper and lower hoses, did a complete transmission service for about $450 and a couple of evenings of my time. To do the job right, it should be a $1300 job.