New to me 2013 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[LC CT]

Hey there, thought I would share me recent purchase. Picked up a 2013 Lx 570 2 weeks ago from FL. Car was in great shape with 62k on the clock. I am in CT so without really seeing much other then pictures I purchased and flew down. Car drove great for the 1400 drive home. I’d say over all a super comfortable and nice truck for a long drive. It has the cool box which did make the drive home quite nice as it was average 100 degreees the whole time. Drive was smooth back. I’ve owned 2 100’s prior, 03 LC and an 04 LX. The good: car was serviced regularly through Lexus every 5k. Body had no dings, a couple minor surface scratches only. Drives great. Etc. the Bad: I noticed the radiator crack forming at the top. I attached a pic to see if anyone has insight to how far along that is. Should I be concerned short term? Like a couple weeks or do I have a little time before dealing with that? Also one of the rear shocks appears to be moist on the lower section. I am going to do a full AHC flush tomorrow. Hoping that helps. It’s not leaking, like drips by any means. Just damp and I’ve never replaced shock with ahc before. Not sure how big it a deal that is. Lastly the coolant res was under low. I added just a small amount of Toyota to bring it between full and low. Today I checked cold and it was slightly below low again. Checked the radiator and it was full. So vehicle cold I filled the res to the full mark. I don’t notice and leaks anywhere, or smells of coolant. Wondering if the temperature difference has been doing anything, it’s been cool in the 60’s here at night opposed to 100 when I brought the car home. I also looked underneath by the transmission and don’t see any coolant coming from there. Any thoughts on this? Attached are some pics. So far ordered budbuilt CAT protectors. That’s a real issue in the area unfortunately. Other then that just going to do some baselining. Will do front and rear diff, AHC, any other thoughts for items at this mileage? Appreciate the views and thoughts. Thanks!

 

[LC CT]

Hey there, thought I would share me recent purchase. Picked up a 2013 Lx 570 2 weeks ago from FL. Car was in great shape with 62k on the clock. I am in CT so without really seeing much other then pictures I purchased and flew down. Car drove great for the 1400 drive home. I’d say over all a super comfortable and nice truck for a long drive. It has the cool box which did make the drive home quite nice as it was average 100 degreees the whole time. Drive was smooth back. I’ve owned 2 100’s prior, 03 LC and an 04 LX. The good: car was serviced regularly through Lexus every 5k. Body had no dings, a couple minor surface scratches only. Drives great. Etc. the Bad: I noticed the radiator crack forming at the top. I attached a pic to see if anyone has insight to how far along that is. Should I be concerned short term? Like a couple weeks or do I have a little time before dealing with that? Also one of the rear shocks appears to be moist on the lower section. I am going to do a full AHC flush tomorrow. Hoping that helps. It’s not leaking, like drips by any means. Just damp and I’ve never replaced shock with ahc before. Not sure how big it a deal that is. Lastly the coolant res was under low. I added just a small amount of Toyota to bring it between full and low. Today I checked cold and it was slightly below low again. Checked the radiator and it was full. So vehicle cold I filled the res to the full mark. I don’t notice and leaks anywhere, or smells of coolant. Wondering if the temperature difference has been doing anything, it’s been cool in the 60’s here at night opposed to 100 when I brought the car home. I also looked underneath by the transmission and don’t see any coolant coming from there. Any thoughts on this? Attached are some pics. Appreciate the views and thoughts. Thanks!

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Couple more pics

 

[kwelhand]

Looks like brand new.
How much did you pay?

 

[LC CT]

Looks like brand new.
How much did you pay?

Paid 41k

 

[kwelhand]

Paid 41k

That's a good deal!
I paid $34K for 160K 2014 about 8 months ago
Congrats!

 

[LC CT]

That's a good deal!
I paid $34K for 160K 2014 about 8 months ago
Congrats!

Yea I thought it was a good deal for the shape. Plan on having it sprayed with New Hampshire oil coating this fall. Had a few vehicles done before and they do a great job. Trying to keep anything in good shape in CT can be tough.

 

[bloc]

Congrats on the great looking rig!

For the coolant issue read into the valley plate leak. Quick ID can be made by getting under the truck and check for white or light pink evidence of drips coming down the bell housing. More directly you can pull the intake manifold or just the foam block in the front.. but the latter destroys the foam.

Your radiator has plenty of life left. They seem to let go once the crack has extended about 1/8” past the drivers side edge of the raised square. By plenty I mean you have at least a few thousand miles to plan the repair.. though just as a precaution I’d refrain from putting a lot of stress on the cooling system like towing a large trailer in this summer heat.

 

[LC CT]

Congrats on the great looking rig!

For the coolant issue read into the valley plate leak. Quick ID can be made by getting under the truck and check for white or light pink evidence of drips coming down the bell housing. More directly you can pull the intake manifold or just the foam block in the front.. but the latter destroys the foam.

Your radiator has plenty of life left. They seem to let go once the crack has extended about 1/8” past the drivers side edge of the raised square. By plenty I mean you have at least a few thousand miles to plan the repair.. though just as a precaution I’d refrain from putting a lot of stress on the cooling system like towing a large trailer in this summer heat.

Thank you. Yes, I took a look under the tranny, housing area, checks clean, I filled the reservoir I’ll keep an eye on it. Good to know about the radiator. I’ll start looking for a shop to do the work. I’m assuming Toyota/Lexus is going to be over priced but I’ll get a few quotes. Any good deals on OE radiators these days? I know some places ri sales periodically. Thanks for the info!

 

[Bryanmc]

Congrats on the purchase, she looks beautiful! Your radiator will blow, they all do and yours has the cracks already forming.

My 2010 had its blow three weeks after I bought it. Yay.

You could put some JB Weld over the cracks to buy some time but I’d recommend getting it replaced as soon as possible. It’s a ticking time bomb that has to be done, so do it before it blows.

 

[thammer62]

I’ll vote to schedule it (radiator) to be replaced immediately, bc now the failure is imminent. Will it last another k? Maybe. Not worth the risk for me with that much cracked. Just my thoughts. Replaced mine right at 63k as well (2013 too) when it looked very similar. Lots of threads on this with examples that will give you more photos and guidance.

Nice pick up by the way. Beautiful. You’ll love it.

 

[LC CT]

I’ll vote to schedule it (radiator) to be replaced immediately, bc now the failure is imminent. Will it last another k? Maybe. Not worth the risk for me with that much cracked. Just my thoughts. Replaced mine right at 63k as well (2013 too) when it looked very similar. Lots of threads on this with examples that will give you more photos and guidance.

Nice pick up by the way. Beautiful. You’ll love it.

Yea that’s the plan unfortunately. Before buying I thought the radiator issue was only 08-10… apparently not , have a bunch of calls into dealers this am, quotes anywhere from $1000-$1300. Crazy to be an issue at 60k.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Very nice rig. I'd love to pick one of those up a few years from now. I'm hoping prices decline some more in the meantime. I'm telling everyone I meet what POS the 200 Series are.

 

[bloc]

Crazy to be an issue at 60k.

To be fair, it is the one issue. Whereas most vehicles have a few dozen things that might pop up.. we have a radiator that is easy to monitor and gives plenty of warning before it lets go. Plus the updated part won’t have the same problem.

 

[LC CT]

To be fair, it is the one issue. Whereas most vehicles have a few dozen things that might pop up.. we have a radiator that is easy to monitor and gives plenty of warning before it lets go. Plus the updated part won’t have the same problem.

Fair, if that’s all I have to deal with on this rig I’ll be happy!

 

[LC CT]

Congrats on the purchase, she looks beautiful! Your radiator will blow, they all do and yours has the cracks already forming.

My 2010 had its blow three weeks after I bought it. Yay.

You could put some JB Weld over the cracks to buy some time but I’d recommend getting it replaced as soon as possible. It’s a ticking time bomb that has to be done, so do it before it blows.

How did your crack look compared to mine? If you remember? I have an apt on 8/29 to get done through Toyota, it’s my daily so hoping it makes it a couple weeks? Thanks

 

[TeCKis300]

The crack there is super mild and in the early beginnings. There's tons of life left in it, possibly 10s of thousands of miles more before the heat cycling fatigue crack breaks through. At the same time, there's no guarantees and that will be in the back of your mind every drive.

This is a stress riser or stress concentration type of fatigue crack in the nylon composite. There's well known strategies to mitigate or outright fix these types of issues. Much like drilling a hole at the end of a crack can completely stop its progression. For an early caught example like yours, this will fix the issue IMO for the life of the radiator. It's changing the geometry to distribute the forces so it's no longer concentrated on that corner. Just like the newest rev of the radiator that has a curved corner.

Put a fillet of material around the raised square with some epoxy

Amazon product ASIN B00THUUVSU

 

[CharlieS]

If economics allow, I'm in favor of a new radiator over the epoxy route. It's definitely a valid approach, but I like it better as an emergency stopgap fix. Adhesives also mask the visible indicator of failure. It seems to me that results could vary widely with substrate prep and adhesive efficacy. I'd constantly worry about it letting go. It's also a good opportunity to refresh belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, thermostat, hoses etc, to get the next 100k or so trouble free miles.

 

[LC CT]

If economics allow, I'm in favor of a new radiator over the epoxy route. It's definitely a valid approach, but I like it better as an emergency stopgap fix. Adhesives also mask the visible indicator of failure. It seems to me that results could vary widely with substrate prep and adhesive efficacy. I'd constantly worry about it letting go. It's also a good opportunity to refresh belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, thermostat, hoses etc, to get the next 100k or so trouble free miles.

Appreciate the info, yes I have an apt with local Toyota 2 weeks out. I’m going to go that route. They are doing radiator and fluid for $1000, seemed the most reasonable out of other local dealers. OEM radiator.

 

[LC CT]

The crack there is super mild and in the early beginnings. There's tons of life left in it, possibly 10s of thousands of miles more before the heat cycling fatigue crack breaks through. At the same time, there's no guarantees and that will be in the back of your mind every drive.

This is a stress riser or stress concentration type of fatigue crack in the nylon composite. There's well known strategies to mitigate or outright fix these types of issues. Much like drilling a hole at the end of a crack can completely stop its progression. For an early caught example like yours, this will fix the issue IMO for the life of the radiator. It's changing the geometry to distribute the forces so it's no longer concentrated on that corner. Just like the newest rev of the radiator that has a curved corner.

Put a fillet of material around the raised square with some epoxy

Amazon product ASIN B00THUUVSU

Yea I don’t do well with looming issues. I have a tendency to over obsess on things like that lol. Going to get a fresh radiator done and then be happy with that. I feel like I wouldn’t trust the truck for a long trip in the middle of nowhere with a patch job.

 

[bloc]

If economics allow, I'm in favor of a new radiator over the epoxy route. It's definitely a valid approach, but I like it better as an emergency stopgap fix. Adhesives also mask the visible indicator of failure. It seems to me that results could vary widely with substrate prep and adhesive efficacy. I'd constantly worry about it letting go. It's also a good opportunity to refresh belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, thermostat, hoses etc, to get the next 100k or so trouble free miles.

Exactly this.

Plus, even if the crack never actually fails, the upper inlet will look like the below picture by 120k. Putting plastic into cooling systems is an unfortunate reality these days.