New South American 1979 FJ40 owner - Advice

[CLASSICclown76]

Greetings to everyone out there, my name is Hunter and I’m brand new to both this website and most things FJ40

I purchased a refurbished 1979 FJ40 (so he said) from a gentleman in Columbia who moved to the Dallas Fort Worth area 5 years ago.

He told me he replaced the entire front end, including the ball joints, drum brakes, and master brake assembly. (They do look brand new)

However, the brakes no longer work. A local shop who specializes in Land Cruisers mentioned the new master brake cylinder appears to be for a Japanese 1979.

I’ve done a bunch of research but unable to locate information concerning compatibility?
Does anyone know if I need to find an original South American version brake assembly?

Or, if too challenging am I just better to locate and replace the 40 Front Axle Disc brake assembly all together? Go new disc?

I used to have a Japanese 1977 FJ40 and that thing seemed a whole lot easier to get parts for! Did I just purchase a land boat for sunken cost and should move on or lean into making the correct fix?

Thanks, Hunter

 

[coinoperated40]

Smart people on here will give you all kinds of help with your situation.
I am just a people, not necessarily a smart one.
Welcome to it.
Nice looking rig.

 

[NOSAJ]

I would recommend going disc. The front drum brakes can be a pain to deal with. I’ve always bought a late 75 and up axle but there are other ways to do it.

 

[CLASSICclown76]

Smart people on here will give you all kinds of help with your situation.
I am just a people, not necessarily a smart one.
Welcome to it.
Nice looking rig.

Thanks for chiming in! Wasn’t sure I even posted correctly

 

[charliemeyer007]

Did you try bleeding the brakes, what did the fluid look like. Brakes don't work is about as valuable as the car doesn't start. So does the pedal go to the floor? Pedal moves down, get firm but no stopping action - slave cylinders frozen - wet shoes.

 

[JohnnyC]

your truck was built in Japan and sent over to Columbia … you should have a sequential vin to ours… all parts would be able to swap on correctly … however years of use and abuse and most likely parts availability may have made PO fixes interesting as would be here as well

Your master is bad? Or you’re just concerned? Looks like somebody spliced in new section of line when they went from side output master to the top output master

The master used is perfectly ok

Not keen on the use of brake line unions there … but… if it’s not leaking

Parts are sometimes dumber down versions of USA … like no emissions stuff… and like no igniter on the coil … just coil and ballast resistor that type of thing

Some local sources were used for somethings … like tops

But the major components were standard TLC

Hope that makes sense

What is your vin? That may tell me more

 

[CLASSICclown76]

Did you try bleeding the brakes, what did the fluid look like. Brakes don't work is about as valuable as the car doesn't start. So does the pedal go to the floor? Pedal moves down, get firm but no stopping action - slave cylinders frozen - wet shoes.

Charlie,
I understand that I likely didn’t provide you enough information; however, I was just trying to get the initial conversation going.

I picked up the car and immediately put it on a flatbed truck and took it to a land cruiser place.

But when backing it off the trailer the brake goes all the way to the floor with zero resistance; I’d have to check fluid (DOT)?

The last owner replaced the master brake cylinder, which is brand new. Admitted he tried to bleed the brakes, but couldn’t get it done.

The land cruiser place (Lexitec in Fort Worth) bled the brakes and checked hoses. They said everything looked new and correct, but again the brake that went all the way to the floor and did not stop.

They asked me to ask some smart people this weekend and that’s what I’m attempting to do.

Learning, thanks for sharing

Hunter

 

[CLASSICclown76]

your truck was built in Japan and sent over to Columbia … you should have a sequential vin to ours… all parts would be able to swap on correctly … however years of use and abuse and most likely parts availability may have made PO fixes interesting as would be here as well

Your master is bad? Or you’re just concerned? Looks like somebody spliced in new section of line when they went from side output master to the top output master

The master used is perfectly ok

Not keen on the use of brake line unions there … but… if it’s not leaking

Parts are sometimes dumber down versions of USA … like no emissions stuff… and like no igniter on the coil … just coil and ballast resistor that type of thing

Some local sources were used for somethings … like tops

But the major components were standard TLC

Hope that makes sense

What is your vin? That may tell me more

JonnyC,

lexitec, who took a look at the Land Cruiser, was the one that asked me about the master brake cylinder (they had a question if it was American or Japanese or where the car came from?) I told him it was from Columbia and they said that’s gonna help narrow down the troubleshooting because parts are different. They asked me locate a South America MBC if I could find one? (I thought they are all the same?)

Here’s the Vin number: FJ40297342

Thank you

 

[devo]

I drive a 1981 FJ43 that I imported from Colombia. I don’t really find acquiring parts to be difficult. Your 40 is a general market vehicle so finding parts is’t too difficult. All Land Cruisers are Japanese! Check out Amayama or Partsouq and the USA supporting vendors.. Search the web for any part you’re looking for and something will pop up. Lots of cross over from NA to general market Land Cruisers. Definitely go with a disc brake conversion. Mine was sourced from a 1982 FJ60 front axle.
Welcome and have fun!

 

[pb4ugo]

I think you need to find a shop that's familiar with the 40 series.

 

[CLASSICclown76]

Thank you so much for a quick reply and that was tremendously helpful
Could you tell me what you think the average price of a front axle might run?
Been new to the game I don’t want to get price gouged
Thanks

 

[charliemeyer007]

Ok. If it were mine, I'd start at the passenger rear. Block the front wheel on both sides. Jack up the p/r and take the tire off, then the drum. Make sure the drum and shoes are dry. Next put the drum back on and adjust the shoes out until they are tight against the drum. Bleed the system until the fluid coming out is clean and free of bubbles. I use a one man brake bleeder, but sealing the bleeder nipple can be a PIA. Two people one in the drivers seat and one at the nipples is easier and faster. Don't let the reservoir run low. Do the d/r, then p/f then d/f. Pedal should be firm. Go back and loosen the shoes like 5 clicks on the adjuster.

Get a book, there might be download here. Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals

 

[JohnnyC]

You truck was built 12/78 and if it has the original engine it should be around

2F336300 to 2F337400 or there abouts

If you pump it does it get hard? (That never sounds right asking but I just did lol)

If the brake pedal get hard then it most likely has air still

PO didnt bleed the master most likely and it’s got air… still… not only that I bet it has some aftermarket cylinders … they are notoriously hard to get the air out IMHO

 

[JohnnyC]

Only thing I’d add to Charlie’s comment above … back off three click instead

This is the @Pin_Head recommended clicks … I have 4 wheel discs

The drums were too much of a PITA and rid myself of them 30 years ago lol

Rear disc from @Poser I recommend… mine were from @Downey I don’t know if he still sells them or not

 

[CLASSICclown76]

I drive a 1981 FJ43 that I imported from Colombia. I don’t really find acquiring parts to be difficult. Your 40 is a general market vehicle so finding parts is’t too difficult. All Land Cruisers are Japanese! Check out Amayama or Partsouq and the USA supporting vendors.. Search the web for any part you’re looking for and something will pop up. Lots of cross over from NA to general market Land Cruisers. Definitely go with a disc brake conversion. Mine was sourced from a 1982 FJ60 front axle.
Welcome and have fun!

I saw this one on the website, but I don’t exactly know what car came from?

https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34048

 

[Chamba]

There are no ball joints on 40 series, it's a solid axle vehicle. The 'balls' you see are called trunions. You'll rebuild those when you swap over to disc brakes.
Your brake issue is likely a leak in the hard lines. The Colombians often will 'repair' rusty brake lines by bending their own tubing, not by using factory Toyota lines. I've found many of them leak when left idle for a any length of time.
Sourcing good factory tubing will be a good investment when you swap to discs. Spectre has a good selection.

 

[CLASSICclown76]

You truck was built 12/78 and if it has the original engine it should be around

2F336300 to 2F337400 or there abouts

If you pump it does it get hard? (That never sounds right asking but I just did lol)

If the brake pedal get hard then it most likely has air still

PO didnt bleed the master most likely and it’s got air… still… not only that I bet it has some aftermarket cylinders … they are notoriously hard to get the air out IMHO

VERY HELPFUL

 

[CLASSICclown76]

There are no ball joints on 40 series, it's a solid axle vehicle. The 'balls' you see are called trunions. You'll rebuild those when you swap over to disc brakes.
Your brake issue is likely a leak in the hard lines. The Colombians often will 'repair' rusty brake lines by bending their own tubing, not by using factory Toyota lines. I've found many of them leak when left idle for a any length of time.
Sourcing good factory tubing will be a good investment when you swap to discs. Spectre has a good selection.

Man, lots to learn. Thanks all for the assist!!! Trunions (heard about them, had never seen one!)

 

[cruisermatt]

Can you see if you can get a receipt or part number for the brake master cylinder from the PO so you can see exactly what he installed? It is super common for less-educated owners of Non-US 40's to just buy a brake master from a common parts source for a "1979 Land Cruiser" not realizing if it is for the disc brake version it won't have the residual valve in the front circuit. In which case the front shoes will stay against the drum. I've had the exact situation come through my shop several times. Usually from other shops who couldn't figure it out, too.

 

[derail]

Just my opinion, but everything in that picture of your master cylinder looks new and fairly well sorted. That lends me to believe that it's something simple. A few hours of work could save you thousands of dollars. A disc brake swap is a great idea, however, I think that you could probably figure this problem out and be on the road in far less time with less money spent also. Then once you have a functioning brake system, if they are not to stopping to your standards, think about gathering parts for a disc swap. Or if you don't have the desire to work on it yourself, you could take it to a shop the specializes in land cruisers.