New Sliders from OPOR

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jonharis said:
Are those any different than these? I'm looking at the two on the site and they look very similar.....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...cruiser-sliders-new-product-announcement.html
Click to expand...

They are pretty similar... Looks like the OPOR sliders angle up a bit
Apparently these are weighed down by $160 worth of additional steel? ;)
475_3_.jpg

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Its my understanding that while they are quality, they are not the same quality as the MT sliders. Different types of steel, etc. Im sure LT or Mark will chime in on this once they see the post.
 
the Metal Tech are very different, they have internal baffling, powder coated inside and out. It is not a 2x4 steel tube like the OPOR, but cut and bent. that's the best way I know how to explain it.
 
petrotk40 said:
the Metal Tech are very different, they have internal baffling, powder coated inside and out. It is not a 2x4 steel tube like the OPOR, but cut and bent. that's the best way I know how to explain it.
Click to expand...

Yes very different in how the are built. You explained it well. The Metal-tech 4x4 sliders are ground up engineered in CAD, all the components are individually CNC laser cut. The main bodies are formed with 4 bends all facing outward to take impact and look great on the trucks. (Hundys are not boxes so you don't see box tube on the MT sliders) Internal supports (built like a fighter jet wing) and the best powder coating inside and out. (Full sand blast, dip, bake, powder coat and bake $$ not cheep) However the MT slider is compared to other sliders on the market. Yet the MT sliders #1 design point was performance not cost. $800 sliders are not a fit for everyone, we get that.

Enter Outpost Off Road's sliders. These are made with cost as a design factor, performance is there but final cost was important. This is more of an apples to apples slider to compare with others using off the shelf box tube.

The OPOR sliders stand out from the others by:

- Use ONLY DOM tube. HERW is not an option, but priced starting at $540 as if HERW was used.
- Ramped front entrence points and rear exit points.
- Licensed use of Metal-tech 4x4's trademarked Two Stage rub rails.
- Step plate dimple die'ed for strength, function and looks
- STOCKED! Small production runs so you order they ship.

jonharis said:
Are those any different than these? I'm looking at the two on the site and they look very similar.....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...cruiser-sliders-new-product-announcement.html
Click to expand...

Once on the truck they look similar. One of the key reasons for this is Outpost Off Road licensed the use of Metal-tech 4x4's trademarked rub rail design. From there they differ quite a bit. But OPOR sliders also start out $260 lower in cost and have a un-mached value at this price.

Bottom line, the new OPOR sliders look great perform outstanding and at $540 you can order them today and they ship with in 24hrs.

Mark
 
love the look AND the cost.
 
Taking a serious look at the OPOR option now due to cost. Those look great.
 
Props to MetalTech! I can't say enough about the quality of their product and workmanship. The OP sliders are solid, well-built, and everything you'd ever need. The MT sliders raise the bar both elegance of design and the ultimate in strength. It's really about budget, style, and lead time (IIRC, the OP sliders will be stock items). Both will serve you well and the folks at MT are solid guys who will treat you right.

By the way, that's a great looking truck you guys have. What size wheels/tires are those? ;)

485_6_.jpg
 
^ Looks extremely similar to the one pictured to the left...
 
The bare metal finish really matches the side trim:)
 
I installed my outpost off-road sliders today, but the tops of the mounting brackets are touching the body. I prefer not to lower them otherwise you'll see a very noticeable gap between the pinch weld and the slider.

But I'm guessing I will have to, because it will likely rub like this?

Any other ideas?



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Front mount:
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Middle mount:
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image-531070707.webp


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Mine are touching the body at the top also. You can use a cut off disc to remove some material. I plan on just lowering mine. The vibration and clunking I get is driving me nuts.
 
I'd be nervous taking too much off the top of the mounting brackets. Not a lot of material up there.

I'll probably just move them down for now. At some point I might get industrious and cut the front two mounts and just weld to the frame.

Everything always move difficult than it seems!
 
They should sit as low as possible on the frame. Hang them. Tighten. Drive around for a week. Re tighten. If you install them at the top of the range they will chatter against the body.
 
I don't want them to hang down low. I'd like them to be up nice and tight! :) In lowest position there is a large gap that doesn't look good.

I notched the mounting bracket. If this doesn't work I'll cut the tops off and weld to the frame.

Fwiw it is the front two mounts that hit the body. The rear has 3/8" clearance or more. image-182471090.webp

image-182471090.webp
 
You can want that, but its not how they're designed to work. Welding to the frame would be a solution. IMO you've already removed too much material. That flange is there for a reason. I doubt it will fail, but if that's the front leg it will take a lot of force on its own if it takes a hit.

I have MT, not OPOR, but they look great IMO. Gap below rocker is a non issue and the MT sliders come straight out.

Also keep in mind that the body will flex quite a bit around the frame and the sliders will also flex up under load so you'll want to have at least 1/2" - 1" clearance from your rocker to your slider.

If I were you I'd run it for a while as suggested and if it really bothers you start playing around more. Get it up on three wheels too to see where the body ends up.
 
Oregon, do you have a closeup view of your sliders and what the gap looks like? I'd be curious to see...when I initially put these on I had them tightened loosely hanging down at the bottom and the gap was really large.

The brackets are 1/4" thick steel. I took very little off right above the mounting hole, so I think I will be OK.

I can't imagine 1/4-3/8" of clearance isn't enough to keep them from touching under normal driving circumstances. If they touch the body under extreme flex, I'm not too worried about that, it shouldn't do any damage. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
With the bumper I allow a finger width for flex and it hasn't been any problem on the front. The rear bumper has touched the body but hasn't caused a dent.

If you click on BTBT in my sig and scroll down to post 23 you can see the gap. I'll see if I can get a better pic tonight.
 
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