Hey, I'm Brad from Lavonia Georgia. I'm the new owner of a 1991 prado wagon with 2LTE engine and automatic transmission. After buying I drove my new toy home about 60 miles. Over the next few days I drove around here and there with no problems. The truck seemed to be running fine. The next time I drove it, it cranked right up but wouldn't respond to the pedal and went dead wouldn't crank back. Yes it has plenty of fuel in the tank. I need some help troubleshooting. I was hoping it would be something simple like a fuel pump! My regular mechanic (not a diesel mechanic) seems to think injector pump is bad. He says he is not comfortable working on it. Is the injector pump the only fuel pump? I need some ideas. Hoping the problem isn't that serious.
New prado owner (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pradobrad
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Possibly needs to be primed? Water in the fuel?
If it does not turnover, battery, starter or electrical.
Fuel filter should be on the drivers side. Try pumping it first to get some fuel unless the fuel filter warning light is on, then drain it.
If it does not turnover, battery, starter or electrical.
Fuel filter should be on the drivers side. Try pumping it first to get some fuel unless the fuel filter warning light is on, then drain it.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Do you mean it won’t crank now?
or won’t “catch” or Start?
or won’t “catch” or Start?
- Thread starter
- #4
The engine turns over fine,but won't crank. I have used the pump above the fuel filter and still no fuel.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
It sounds to me like the injectors are not getting any fuel at all.
Check that the in-tank pickup sock is not plugged up. Sometimes when these trucks sit for a long time algae builds up in the fuel tank and plugs that pre-filter.
Replace the fuel filter as well - as it could plug up too.
Check that there are no air leaks. You can put a piece of clear hose on between the fuel primer and the injection pump. Put some good hose clamps on to keep air out. Watch the fuel pass as you pump the primer, and try to start the motor. Note that these primers can be a big cause of air leaks themselves.
These trucks have a fuel pump in the front of the injection pump and that is it. So as you crank the motor and the pump turns, it should be drawing fuel through the clear hose.
Finally you could be having issues with the ECD (electronic controlled diesel) system. There is a thing called a Spill Control Valve in the injection pump head that controls the injection duration (to govern the engine). It is controlled by the engine computer. If the computer is not firing that valve, the motor will not run. Usually it's sensor problems, wiring problems, or a bad ground that can cause this.
You can pull the ECU error codes exactly like all the other old Toyotas of that same vintage. Short the T1 to E1 (I think) terminals in the little grey diagnostic connector in the left side of the engine bay.
You either need to know a good mechanic, or be willing to learn this sort of thing if you want to own one of these trucks long term.
Check that the in-tank pickup sock is not plugged up. Sometimes when these trucks sit for a long time algae builds up in the fuel tank and plugs that pre-filter.
Replace the fuel filter as well - as it could plug up too.
Check that there are no air leaks. You can put a piece of clear hose on between the fuel primer and the injection pump. Put some good hose clamps on to keep air out. Watch the fuel pass as you pump the primer, and try to start the motor. Note that these primers can be a big cause of air leaks themselves.
These trucks have a fuel pump in the front of the injection pump and that is it. So as you crank the motor and the pump turns, it should be drawing fuel through the clear hose.
Finally you could be having issues with the ECD (electronic controlled diesel) system. There is a thing called a Spill Control Valve in the injection pump head that controls the injection duration (to govern the engine). It is controlled by the engine computer. If the computer is not firing that valve, the motor will not run. Usually it's sensor problems, wiring problems, or a bad ground that can cause this.
You can pull the ECU error codes exactly like all the other old Toyotas of that same vintage. Short the T1 to E1 (I think) terminals in the little grey diagnostic connector in the left side of the engine bay.
You either need to know a good mechanic, or be willing to learn this sort of thing if you want to own one of these trucks long term.
also try the old can of engine start straight down the intake, makes a diesel knock like crazy but it works a treat getting my international 574 tractor primed!
- Thread starter
- #7
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for responding. I will try and check all of this out when I find the time. Do I have to drop the fuel tank to check the sock on the line? If it turns out to be the fuel pump does that mean a new injector pump? Thanks for the help!
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
I believe the tank pick-up can be accessed from inside the truck (remove small cover in the floor) and there is no need to drop the tank. However it's been a while since I've pulled the carpet up in my truck and looked. I did help a friend with an HDJ81 do this recently though, and his was accessible from in the vehicle.
You can't guess at what you need until you know what the problem is. You have to work through the system methodically eliminating item by item to narrow down your problem. I've never heard of the lift pump part of the injection pump failing though; especially so quickly. I doubt that is the problem.
Download the manuals and start learning about your truck. There is an ECD-V3 manual that explains the injection system super well. And there are factory repair manuals for the mechanical parts of your motor. Once you understand how the motor works it's a lot easier to troubleshoot.
Manuals are at this link: Builds - My build thread
You can't guess at what you need until you know what the problem is. You have to work through the system methodically eliminating item by item to narrow down your problem. I've never heard of the lift pump part of the injection pump failing though; especially so quickly. I doubt that is the problem.
Download the manuals and start learning about your truck. There is an ECD-V3 manual that explains the injection system super well. And there are factory repair manuals for the mechanical parts of your motor. Once you understand how the motor works it's a lot easier to troubleshoot.
Manuals are at this link: Builds - My build thread
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for all your help. I'm sure I will have more questions.
You said it was running fine and then stopped. Thats not usually the sign of a failed injection pump. They run but top end power drops off and it happens slowly. It will be something attached to the pump. VW diesels use a very similar pump, so ask someone who works on them if you do need pump work.
Most fuel injection pumps can be rebuilt. They usually charge around $500 to strip and rebuild plus the cost of parts gaskets seals etc
I think your problems lies with what GTSSportCoupe outlined.
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- Thread starter
- #12
I found access hole for the fuel gauge but not for the fuel intake and return lines. I didn't want to drop the fuel tank since it is almost full. I decided to get the clear hose and attach to the lines under the hood. I can suck and get fuel easily through both lines coming from the tank,so I'm thinking that I don't have a problem at the tank. I changed fuel filter and attached lines back with a clear one going to the pump. When I try to prime it I get nothing. I open the drain on fuel filter and can feel air as I pump but can't get fuel with drain open or closed. Is the primer bad, do I need to crack a line to prime ? What should be my next step. If I need a primer pump where is a good place to order one?
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Sounds like things are fine at your tank. Good to know about the access situation.
It does take a lot of pumping to get the fuel to come out if the lines are completely full of air. I've never had to crack anything to bleed the fuel system on mine.
Go to megazip and find the part number for your primer. Type it into ebay and find a knock off one. This is what I did and it works great. They're cheap, so if it's not your root problem, it's not a big loss.
Is there any fuel leak visible around the primer button?
It does take a lot of pumping to get the fuel to come out if the lines are completely full of air. I've never had to crack anything to bleed the fuel system on mine.
Go to megazip and find the part number for your primer. Type it into ebay and find a knock off one. This is what I did and it works great. They're cheap, so if it's not your root problem, it's not a big loss.
Is there any fuel leak visible around the primer button?
- Thread starter
- #14
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Recently I removed my fuel tank. I did some paint and stuff then put it back in place.
Pumping the primer produced almost nothing for me so I pulled the fuel filter, filled it up full of fuel, then got it back in place.
Started the engine and somehow it all worked perfectly.
Pumping the primer produced almost nothing for me so I pulled the fuel filter, filled it up full of fuel, then got it back in place.
Started the engine and somehow it all worked perfectly.
FJBen
SILVER Star
What I’ve used on my tdi Jetta when it wouldn’t pull prime was to pressurize the fuel tank with an air compressor. Pushed fuel up to the injectors and through.
- Thread starter
- #17
Instead of taking the fuel filter off again I decided to hook a hose to return side of fuel pump. I sucked through the hose and was able to draw the fuel through fuel filter and injection pump. I re attached the line and then tried the hand primer. It seemed to be pumping,but I did notice some fuel leaking. Right behind the primer is a fuel heater,I think? This is where I think the fuel is leaking. I was able to start the engine and ran it for at least ten minutes ,seem to run good and responded to accelerator. There was always air in my clear line going from filter to pump?? Should I changed out whole assembly or just the gasket at fuel heater? I found filter assembly on Ebay ($85) looks like mine but part number was different. It said it was for 80 series.
If you have fuel leaking, you are getting air in. It's actually easier to get air in than fuel out. Go figure.
If you have the fuel heater and the gasket is where it's leaking, I would just replace the gasket.
On the primer pump/filter housing, it's just as easy to replace the entire thing. The aftermarket ones @GTSSportCoupe referenced are around 35 USD if I remember correctly.
If you have the fuel heater and the gasket is where it's leaking, I would just replace the gasket.
On the primer pump/filter housing, it's just as easy to replace the entire thing. The aftermarket ones @GTSSportCoupe referenced are around 35 USD if I remember correctly.
Aftermarket:
Well, my links do not want to work.
Search Amazon for:
23301-54560
Genuine:
Well, my links do not want to work.
Search Amazon for:
23301-54560
Genuine:
Genuine Toyota 23301-54560 Cap ASSY Fuel Filter 2330154560 OEM for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Genuine Toyota 23301-54560 Cap ASSY Fuel Filter 2330154560 OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
- Thread starter
- #20
Aftermarket:
Well, my links do not want to work.
Search Amazon for:
23301-54560
Genuine:
Genuine Toyota 23301-54560 Cap ASSY Fuel Filter 2330154560 OEM for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Genuine Toyota 23301-54560 Cap ASSY Fuel Filter 2330154560 OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
I looked at the old link that GTSSportCoupe posted in another thread but it didn't have a place for the fuel heater. Do I really need the fuel heater here in Georgia anyway?
