NEW, Prado hub problem. (2 Viewers)

[oldblue]

The final job

 

[crushers]

The front driveshaft flanges on the small diff front ends are H shaped, at least on my 80 they are.
Diff and tranny output flanges are round. In any event they need to come off to be redrilled properly anyway.

So the small front diffs survive in the LJ78s only because of the underpowered engine?.. OK, so how do you explain why they aren't exactly failing in epidemic proportions on the 80 series with 135hp 1HZ to 300hp supercharged 1FZ-FE.
Absolutely they are weaker than the 9.5" diffs but come on.. in the situations where the front pinion shafts bust, it's probably gona happen no matter what engine. unlocked front diff, one wheel up in the air, spinning fast.. comes down on good traction.. pop.
Anyway... we've hijacked this thread all to hell already with all this small diff business.

So back to the subject of the electric front hub motors and brushes...
I like to think that most Cruiser owners are more pro active when it comes to these sort of things, where there is known reliability issue they tend to address it before they are stuck out there somewhere.
Perhaps one could go into a hobby shop and see if they can get some brushes for an RC car in the right size.. but you know, I for one, would be asking the question "What the HELL am I doing in a HOBBY SHOP buying parts for my LANDCRUISER AXLE????"

your kidding here right Sheldon?
go on the 80 forum and ask about the weak front OPEN diffs on the 80 series or contact Slee and see what he has to say.
okay my expereience with the smaller front diffs:
the HZJ75 grenaded a front OPEN diff at Moab under the control of Jeff Zepp.
the smaller front diffs gears wear faster than the larger center units due to the reverse rotation cut of the teeth
the smaller front diffs have less meat holding the center to the ring gear than the open front larger diff.

as for getting parts from a hobby shop i have no problem with it at all. if i could save $800 by going to a hobby shop vs $oyo$a i would.

are the front diffs grenading by the handfuls? no. but if you are going to pick apart one part of a weak design and swap a new from the kingpins out then why not get rid of all the "weak" parts? replace the whole axle.

this all being said, i have NO PROBLEM running these center units in my off/on road trucks. i enjoy the elec locking hubs, i enjoy the higher clearence of the reverse rotation front diff housings. the ONLY way i would replcae a perfectly good front axle is if it broke then depending on the parts i had sitting around i would either rebuild the smaller front diff, the lockign hubs or swap in the larger diff.

i do think the weaknesses of the smaller front diff are equal to the advantages of it...

cheers

 

[crushers]

The final job

i like, good job...

 

[light_duty]

I'll go out on a limb here to suggest that 95% of the folks who bought LJ78s [...] want a Landcruiser that will work in 4wd when they need it.

Stop the presses! Did Sheldon just refer to the LJ78 as a Landcruiser?!?!

 

[Greg_B]

Stop the presses! Did Sheldon just refer to the LJ78 as a Landcruiser?!?!

hehe...

As Sheldon mentioned we have a set of spacers in the shop that I am playing around with when time permits, and will see what all is needed to switch to the manual hubs, keeping the light duty trucks spindle/hub/bearings intact.

Initial thoughts are; one is probably better simply switching the spindle/hub/locking hub to a pre-90 set-up, but I want to complete playing with the spacer before I make my mind up totally. Machining costs, cost/time of putting together all the small bits needed are a factor too.

Hey...might as well make the light duty cruisers hubs bullet proof!

gb

 

[70sguy]

Stop the presses! Did Sheldon just refer to the LJ78 as a Landcruiser?!?!

er... I plead temporary insanity

 

[70sguy]

your kidding here right Sheldon?
go on the 80 forum and ask about the weak front OPEN diffs on the 80 series or contact Slee and see what he has to say.
okay my expereience with the smaller front diffs:
the HZJ75 grenaded a front OPEN diff at Moab under the control of Jeff Zepp.
the smaller front diffs gears wear faster than the larger center units due to the reverse rotation cut of the teeth
the smaller front diffs have less meat holding the center to the ring gear than the open front larger diff.

as for getting parts from a hobby shop i have no problem with it at all. if i could save $800 by going to a hobby shop vs $oyo$a i would.

are the front diffs grenading by the handfuls? no. but if you are going to pick apart one part of a weak design and swap a new from the kingpins out then why not get rid of all the "weak" parts? replace the whole axle.

this all being said, i have NO PROBLEM running these center units in my off/on road trucks. i enjoy the elec locking hubs, i enjoy the higher clearence of the reverse rotation front diff housings. the ONLY way i would replcae a perfectly good front axle is if it broke then depending on the parts i had sitting around i would either rebuild the smaller front diff, the lockign hubs or swap in the larger diff.

i do think the weaknesses of the smaller front diff are equal to the advantages of it...

cheers

I was there at Moab when Jeff grenaded the front diff... but did he not also grenade the 9.5" rear diff on the same weekend? In any event.. I am not going to keep arguing with you about this Wayne. Your argument about the strength, or lack thereof, in the high pinion front diffs etc is irrelivant in the context of this PRADO ELECTRIC LOCKING HUB thread. The issue is that the hubs fail to lock reliably. Once locked there is no difference in component strength between the electric and manual hubs IMO. Swapping on manual hubs or spacers does not mean that you are chasing the weak link further into the axle or drivetrain.

I'm done.

 

[brownbear]

The other thread in the classified section is closed... This is the clone of that thread.... Now non classified.