New Mod - Locking centre diff using transfer shift lever (no electronics!) (9 Viewers)

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You're probably aware that the electronic centre diff lock in the 80 series is a bit of a weak point. At 30-35 years after manufacture, most vehicles still running have probably required work on the CDL system by now, or will shortly. This affects the full-time 4WD HF2A and HF2AV transfer cases, as well as the part-time HF1A transfer case where the electronic 4WD shift system is used. My 80 series is an HZJ80R, with the fully mechanical HF1A transfer case, so there's no electronics involved with the transfer case operation. This is how I like it. When I want to shift between 2WD and 4WD, I move the transfer shifter. This means the shifter has four positions, not three like the motor driven versions:
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So last year when I worked out some H150F gearbox upgrades, I had a second project planned, which I've just started looking at now. What if we could adapt HF2A and HF2AV transfer cases to also have four positions, and use the transfer shift lever to lock the centre differential? This would allow us to discard the electronic lock motor, the 4WD ECU, and the CDL button. In its place, we just shift the transfer lever. We'd still have the CDL light on the cluster, directly driven by the sensor on the transfer case as before.

Why am I interested in this? I've driven a part-time 80 series for a long time now. The main thing I like about the HF1A is the fact that it's fully mechanical. This is why I wanted it, and this is what I still want. But the HF2A, and especially the HF2AV, are a superior transfer. Having a selectively lockable centre differential is better than just being able to switch between RWD and locked 50:50 ratio 4WD. My 80 is my DD, so I do a lot of on-road driving as well as off-road. I've taken to running most of the time with my front hubs locked, so I can switch to 4WD when taking off at the lights in the wet, or tackling slippery, dicey roads. If I had a centre diff, off-road it would be locked, but on the road, it would help a lot with traction issues, and the HF2AV moreso with its viscous coupler, giving an LSD effect. The only thing I would "lose" is the ability to not have the front driveshaft spin, but I'm not worried about that, as I usually have my hubs locked these days anyway as I said, in which case it's spinning anyway, and if I really want to get RWD only, which is fun sometimes on the loose stuff, I can still do it by locking the centre diff and disengaging my front hubs.

Now you may think getting the transfer shift lever to lock the centre differential would be a very hard mod to achieve, but I don't actually think it is. In fact, I think it's literally just swapping a handful of parts. Unlike in the US, I have relatively easy access to HF1A transfers. I also have the "New Car Features" manuals which describes the internal operation of the HF1A, HF2A, and HF2AV transfers. This manual is very useful and really should be scanned, but here's a couple of pages out of the 50 or so related to the transfer:
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What's important to note is that the mechanical operation of the centre diff lock in the HF2A/HF2AV is identical to the H2/H4 selection feature on the HF1A. Both employ a shifting fork and sleeve to lock a hub in the front extension housing. The only real difference is that there's a different shaft connecting to the shift fork, and an adapter plate that connects it to the shift lever rather than being gear driven by the motor. Since the HF1A had two variants of H2/H4 selection, one motor driven and one lever driven, it follows that the assemblies are fairly interchangeable, and the lever-driven mechanism should also be able to drive the centre diff lock on the HF2A/HF2AV, with the appropriate parts changes. The manual excerpts themselves alude to that above. What I couldn't tell for sure from the parts catalog or the manual alone though, was whether there were clearance issues with the different shaft and the alternate shifting fork used for the high/low selection on the H2FA/HF2AV version.

Today I dragged a spare HF1A (from a 105 series) and a HF2A onto the workbench (which I had just lying around because I'm a parts hoarder), cracked them open and took a look:
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HF1A on the left, HF2A on the right. From what I can determine, the parts should just drop right in. There's definitely no clearance issues with the alternate shifting mechanism inside the main case, and I know there's no issue in the front housing extension, since it's the same part number used across all variants of the transfer. What this means is, I'm pretty sure you can order a handful of parts from Toyota, which I believe are all still available, and convert a HF2A/HF2AV to use the transfer shifter to lock the centre diff. You could then optionally change the housing over to the HF1A version without the holes drilled for the centre diff lock motor, or fabricate a cover plate to block it off. You could change the shift lever retainer over to get the "lift for N/L4" feature of the part time transfer, or leave it as-is to have a straight shift between Unlocked H4, Locked H4, N, L4. You could swap the shift knob over too or leave it. In terms of the important parts changes though, it's really just the shaft, the joining plate, then a couple of springs, clips, etc. Almost nothing.

I'm probably going to attempt to move the parts over and bench test this soon. I probably won't be putting it into the vehicle, as I'm waiting on getting a HF2AV version before I do that switch, but it's easy to test on a workbench and verify the change works. I'll report back when I find the time to do that. In the meantime, anyone else interested in this mod idea?
 
Game changer and so cool you took advantage of your addiction-er, resources, to figure out the details. Assuming this works out as nicely as you'd hope, will you also include a parts list with part numbers for the mod?
 
The advantage of the electric CDL is you can do pin7 mod ( or other options) and engage/ disengage CDL with the transfer in HI or LO

There's times where locking the CDL in HI is useful.
There's times unlocking the CDL in LO is useful.
What you are proposing seems to lose this last option?

Intersting to know its an option. Although while new actuators are available, easier, and probably cheaper to swap actuator rather than source a list of parts.

Now, if it where possible to separate the CDL function to manual operation with another lever, independent of range selection, that would be friggin cool!

LandRover and Lada Niva I've driven had lever operated manual centre diff locks
 
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Very cool.

The advantage of the electric CDL is you can do pin7 mod ( or other options) and engage/ disengage CDL with the transfer in HI or LO

There's times where locking the CDL in HI is useful.
There's times unlocking the CDL in LO is useful.
What you are proposing seems to lose this last option?

Intersting to know its an option. Although while new actuators are available, easier, and probably cheaper to swap actuator rather than source a list of parts.

Now, if it where possible to separate the CDL function to manual operation with another lever, independent of range selection, that would be friggin cool!

LandRover and Lada Niva I've driven had lever operated manual centre diff locks
My son's land rover has a transfer case lever that moves fore and aft (hi-n-lo) and side to side (cdl locked/cdl unlocked). The actuator is a lever arm on the t-case. Super simple. Seems like it would be possible to implement something similar to get a manual cdl without splitting the t-case and messing with internals.
 
Very cool.


My son's land rover has a transfer case lever that moves fore and aft (hi-n-lo) and side to side (cdl locked/cdl unlocked). The actuator is a lever arm on the t-case. Super simple. Seems like it would be possible to implement something similar to get a manual cdl without splitting the t-case and messing with internals.

Yeah, there's been a few different attempts at converting OEM difflocks to cable locked, air piston locked etc.
60 series had cable locked diffs
 
The advantage of the electric CDL is you can do pin7 mod ( or other options) and engage/ disengage CDL with the transfer in HI or LO

There's times where locking the CDL in HI is useful.
There's times unlocking the CDL in LO is useful.
What you are proposing seems to lose this last option?

Intersting to know its an option. Although while new actuators are available, easier, and probably cheaper to swap actuator rather than source a list of parts.

Now, if it where possible to separate the CDL function to manual operation with another lever, independent of range selection, that would be friggin cool!

LandRover and Lada Niva I've driven had lever operated manual centre diff locks
Could you give me an example where an open centre diff in low range would be useful? I tried to imagine one when I was planning this mod, and honestly I drew a blank. I can still get RWD only with unlcoked front hubs, which was the only thing I could imagine wanting.
 
Could you give me an example where an open centre diff in low range would be useful? I tried to imagine one when I was planning this mod, and honestly I drew a blank. I can still get RWD only with unlcoked front hubs, which was the only thing I could imagine wanting.
Tight turns on high traction surface.
not typical offroad in lots of places, but does happen. I've been in spots on bare rock, where its sloped, and the trail turns around an obstacle.
LO range with a manual, you want as much control as possible.
CDL being locked on rock tends to bind up the drive train and push the vehicle straight when you want it to turn.

Manouvering a boat at a boat ramp, caravan, trailer into a parking spot or paved camp site etc

I used to tow a 1tonne tool trailer with my first 80.
The only way I could get it into and out of my steep and narrow driveway from the steep street I lived in was in LO range, with CDL unlocked.
 
Could you give me an example where an open centre diff in low range would be useful? I tried to imagine one when I was planning this mod, and honestly I drew a blank. I can still get RWD only with unlcoked front hubs, which was the only thing I could imagine wanting.
I do this every time I go into the woods. I live in the northeast USA. Lots of trees to maneuver around. There is a significant difference between what I call a "tight" trail and some other "tight" trails I have been on.

Low range with 3 open diffs means far less load on driveline components, no understeer, no unpredictable movements. I would never want to loose the ability to lock/unlock anything at will based on the situation.
 
Could you give me an example where an open centre diff in low range would be useful? I tried to imagine one when I was planning this mod, and honestly I drew a blank. I can still get RWD only with unlcoked front hubs, which was the only thing I could imagine wanting.
Moving my trailers (some very heavy) around in yards, boat ramps, concrete driveways, etc.
 
OK, so mostly fiddly towing work on sealed surfaces. I haven't felt the need for unlocked low-range in that situation prior to now, but I also don't own a caravan or boat. I could see it being a thing in some cases. I think some of the use cases are less important in my particular vehicle though, namely a manual with the H150F gearbox. The H150F has the higher gear ratio in 1st and 2nd, meaning 1st in particular is a very low gear indeed (lower than reverse). Combined with appropriate use of the clutch, you can shift forwards or backwards at very low speed with a lot of control. I'm not saying the use case doesn't exist, simply that it feels for me like an easy workaround in a niche case, but I don't mind a lot of clutch work (I engine brake almost every time I decelerate). On the other hand, being able to do away with all the electronics involved in locking the centre diff, while having locking easily accessible with a satisfying flick of the wrist, for me, is a big win.

Someone else may come along with a design that allows modifying these boxes to use an independent locking lever in the future. I like the factory transfer shifter though, and it feels like I'll use it more when I can reach for that. I drive a lot of trails that cut back and forth between tarmac, gravel, and dirt. I'm used to just flicking the transfer back and forth between 2WD and 4WD at speed without thinking about it, and I see myself doing the same thing with the CDL.
 
Could you give me an example where an open centre diff in low range would be useful? I tried to imagine one when I was planning this mod, and honestly I drew a blank. I can still get RWD only with unlcoked front hubs, which was the only thing I could imagine wanting.

Well, for me at least, unlocking the center diff on the trail makes the truck ride smoother since front and rear axles are now spinning independently. Also, there was one time where I had to do a reverse dig and wouldn't have been able to do that with a locked center diff. Anecdotal, I know.
 
Reviving this to see if it worked out? I’d love to have a fully mechanical setup, I’m about to replace a seized HF2AV
So it's definitely doable, but this one got shelved as I got busy with other stuff / got bored and chased the next shiny thing that crossed my field of vision. I plan to go back to it. My main workbench currently looks like this:
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I did do a bunch more back in February though, after I last posted in this thread. I attempted to switch the mechanism over, and I can confirm it will definitely work. The shift lever shaft is compatible, with exactly the same depth into the case, and same width to lock into the tabs on the shift fork. The motor driven locking version has a rounded edge where the shift lever engages with the fork, while the manual shift version has a flat edge, which actually means the manual version has stronger engagement with less wear over time, but the two critical measurements - case depth and width at the engagement point, are identical:
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There is, however, one small catch. The manual shift lever has a thinner depth for that engagement point, as it's on a hinge so it can swivel to actuate the second shift fork. The fact it's thinner isn't a problem, in and of itself, and as mentioned, it actually has better engagement, the problem is the alternate shift fork for the electronically locked versions. They were machined with taller "tabs", which cause slight interference when the arm needs to pivot:
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Both arms sit at the same depth, but due to the difference in thickness of the lever, and the fact the tabs on the shift fork were left to extend longer than they needed to on the motor driven version, those tabs would need to be shaved by a few mm to suit the pivoting shift lever on the manual version. Apart from this interference issue, everything else checked out. At this point though, I started debating on the best way to trim these tabs. If I was precise and clean enough, I believe there's a tab length that works cleanly for both lever mechanisms. I didn't have the right gear to do a precision cut though, so after going back and forth between grabbing a grinder or dremel and just going at it in the vice, vs building some kind of jig and milling it nicely in the press, I ended up doing neither of those things and left the parts strewn out on my workbench while I did other stuff. Hoping to get back to it at some point. I'll need to clear the workbench though, as I'm about to do a head rebuild.
 
I do this every time I go into the woods. I live in the northeast USA. Lots of trees to maneuver around. There is a significant difference between what I call a "tight" trail and some other "tight" trails I have been on.

Low range with 3 open diffs means far less load on driveline components, no understeer, no unpredictable movements. I would never want to loose the ability to lock/unlock anything at will based on the situation.
Yep, tight trails through the trees over here on the other coast too. Low range saves sheet metal!

@DivByZero I don't see myself doing this as long as parts are available, but I do appreciate that someone is. If nothing else, it's a bit of future-proofing.
 

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