New member, new 60 project

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Today I installed the engine mounts in the fj60. I had a friend help me weld them in as my beads are still a bit lacking. I drilled index marks in both mounts before cutting them out of the bj60 and then made a jig using some angle and the gas mounts I cut out of the FJ. I think I got the mounts within a mm or two of the proper location. I used por15 on the frame after the mounts were in.

Also have been working on the tcase rebuild, but before I can put it back together I am awaiting a 5th gear spline and sleeve as mine is damaged.

Has anyone adapted a 4spd cross member to work with the five speed? I am thinking that if possible, that might be easier than cutting off and reattaching the crossmember mounts.

Welding in the mounts. You can see the jig here.
SNC00240.jpg


Drivers side mount
SNC00245.jpg


Passenger Side mount
SNC00246.jpg
 
On my 42 I used the 4speed crossmember when I put in the 5speed.

Everything fit, it just doesn't have as deep a dip in it to clear the front driveshaft. Which doesn't matter if you don't have a big lift.

Chances are 60 stuff will be the same deal...
 
I have been bad about updating this thread - usually I end up too dirty to want to touch my camera.

I got the truck all reasseembled and went to start it today. Its not catching and is just smoking. Also my oil pressure goes to H when i turn the ignition (did not do this before trying to start). I am worried I may have spun a bearing. Any advice on what do do with the no start?
 
Did you get the "low oil pressure" sender crossed with the "oil pressure" sender?
If you did the EDIC will be confused and so will the gauge. I bet that's the problem. Swap wires..... Try again.. Good luck.
 
That would be the two yellow wires on the passenger side of the engine? One has the round cover over it and I put that back where it started. I just tried swapping them with no change in the gauges.

Would spinning out a bearing (such that the oil holes are covered) cause a buildup of oil pressure that stays for for a long time after turning off the ignition, or could the pressure dissipate? I am wondering if my full pressure reading I am getting is accurate or an electrical issue. It was reading 0 (low) as would be expected the first few times I turned it over.
 
eknomf said:
I have been bad about updating this thread - usually I end up too dirty to want to touch my camera.

I got the truck all reasseembled and went to start it today. Its not catching and is just smoking. Also my oil pressure goes to H when i turn the ignition (did not do this before trying to start). I am worried I may have spun a bearing. Any advice on what do do with the no start?
Click to expand...



For the oil pressure, that's what the gauge will do if the wire to the sender is grounded.

Make sure you put it on the centre round tab on the sender, and not the ground tab next to it...I did that a couple months ago. :doh:

( or reversed as cam said)

Unfortunately, if the gauge has spiked for any length of time, it's usually hooped. No biggee, a 14 dollar o/p guage is better than that stock piece of crap anyways.

Engine is almost certainly fine, and it's just a case of the gauge getting grounded.


For the cranking and not starting, if you are using the edic system, pop the arm of the edic off the pump.

That way you'll find out if it's an electrical problem, or just air in the system.

If it's air, it can be a bit of a bugger to bleed them fully, bleed filter, then pump, then injectors.



I'll be driving by your place on the way home tomorrow night, can stop by if you want another pair of eyes.
I can throw my cheapo mechanical oil pressure gauge in the trunk if you want, it's amazingly therapeutic to see positive readings on the gauge when the stock one s***s the bed.

cheers,
ryan
 
Crap.

I wouldn't trust those gauges to be accurate. Do you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge to confirm with? You could back out a pressure journal bolt and see if the oil is under huge pressure as the gauge says. I doubt it is.

Is your EDIC hooked up? I would disconnect the arm and manually move IP to start position and try again.

I wouldn't get too worried about spun bearings and all unless you did something really dumb (like run with no oil).

Ryan.... Got any ideas?
 
Hey Ryan,
That would be much appreciated if you could take a look- I am home around 5pm. I didn't realize I also had to bleed the pump and injectors - I bled to the bleed screw after the fuel filter with my vaccuum pump because the primer pump leaks everywhere... I will use the last 20 min of daylight to see what I can accomplish...
 
eknomf said:
Hey Ryan,
That would be much appreciated if you could take a look- I am home around 5pm. I didn't realize I also had to bleed the pump and injectors - ...
Click to expand...

Usually you don't...but if it gets lots of air in...then its a pain.

Replacement pump is about 30 bucks at action fuel injection off northfield. ..its a nice upgrade.




My guesses?

hooped gauge, air, edic.

I'll pop by on way home.

Cheers
R
 
Some retroactive photos. I only took them of the clean steps...

Rebuilt the tcase and put in the lower gears from the 4 spd splitcase (thanks for the press use seapotato)

SNC00249800x600.jpg





Had the cam and lifters redone at Shadbolt in Vancouver

SNC00259800x600.jpg


SNC00261800x600.jpg





Got an ac bracket cut and welded it together(Thanks Brian for the welding). Used the CAD file that's floating around and modified it as recommended on ih8mud. I would not recommend messing with the file, the bracket ended up 5 mm too wide so I just ground down the compressor mount and put a nut on back...

SNC00258800x600.jpg


SNC00279800x600.jpg





Put some paint on a few rusty pieces, and got the oilpan prepped for a turbo:

SNC00280800x600.jpg




New clutch, aligned with my precision SST. The much used block of wood and hammer was not required for this.

SNC00275800x600.jpg




Installed it all
SNC00283800x600.jpg


Other work done, but not photographed included:
-Replaced cam bearings - mine were missing some pieces
-Replaced all the engine seals I could get at and put in new engine mounts
-Replaced tranny with h55f in better condition than the one in the bj.
-Cut out and replaced tranny crossmember with the one from the bj60. They are not interchangeable between the 84 bj60 and 85 fj60
-Swapped front wiring harnesses. The rear harnesses are not interchangeable between trucks, so I will have to splice them.
-Swapped all accessories
-Swapped out the fuel filler and added in the diesel water separator.
-Painted the front half of the frame with POR15. I still need to do the rear.
 
Last edited:
eknomf said:
Success (click for first start video):

Thanks seapotato for the hand getting it going. It turned out to be air in the injection pump due to a bad primer pump. I swapped out the primer pump from my spare 3b, rebled, and it fired up.
Click to expand...

Yes Ryan is wise in the ways of the 3B. Just dont let him talk you into drinking of his cider unless you have a few days to recover. :D

Glad you got it going, you'll have a great truck after all this is finished up.

Post some turbo pics!
 
First things first - need to replace the leaking, new rear main seal... At least I got to drive the truck about 50 feet. I should have bought a toyota one rather than the aftermarket gasket/seal kit I got.

Easiest way to do this I assume is to drop the tranny and oil pan? My crankshaft had a bit of a groove in it from the old rear main. Is this okay or do I need to get this repaired? I should have dealt with this when it was apart, but the old one didnt leak so I figured it was okay.
 
Another guy with a 3b 60 ended up using a Speedi-sleeve after having 2 seals leak due to that groove. In the end he got it done....also got good at pulling the trans. ;)
 
Does anyone know a p/n for a rear main that offsets the lip a bit, or would a new toyota seal do that due to revisions since new? I searched ih8mud with no success... The aftermarket one I had did not sit in the groove, but still leaked (maybe I installed it wrong).

I have also read of people shimming out the seal to move the lip outwards, but I do not like this idea.

Also, what is the easiest way to drop the tranny with the engine in? I am having a hard time imagining how I will line everything up. Does a transmission jack help enough with this to be worth $200? I might hit up princess auto on my way through Vancouver on Monday.

I'm trying to figure out the best route forward on this and I'm hoping I can tackle it over thanksgiving weekend once I am back from working up north.
 
Driveway tranny pull is not fun, jack it up in the air enough to drop the tranny, I have used a standard floor jack and dropped them before by myself, another set of hands is so much betttter.


:beer:
 
For the tranny, I found that a come along down from above helps a ton.. You can put a beam across inside the truck to hang it off, then you can get away with a regular floor jack.

Still a total pain in the ass because it's so unbalanced. I've seen some guys weld some bars to their jack to make it a bit more like a tranny jack.
 
seapotato said:
For the tranny, I found that a come along down from above helps a ton.. You can put a beam across inside the truck to hang it off, then you can get away with a regular floor jack.

Still a total pain in the ass because it's so unbalanced. I've seen some guys weld some bars to their jack to make it a bit more like a tranny jack.
Click to expand...

Can you do that with a 60? I've had no trouble doing them with a floor jack... get a buddy to help you steady it and drop the rear end of it first so it can slide down at an angle... easy to pull and put back in a day... (2 days if you've never done it before)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

PeeZed
Sweet 16 Project: Pickup body meets 60 chassis.
2
Replies
24
Views
2K
bikersmurf
bikersmurf

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom