New member intro Randomquickness

[randomquickness]

hey y'all i'm matt. Been a car guy for quite a while but mostly euros. I recently picked up my first japanese daily ever, a 2000 LX 470. It had 197k on it and i'm nearing 200k. Aftersearching this forum i have found what appear to be solutions to the issues it has.

I believe i have the notorious clunk from the slip yoke/slip joint that needs greasing. If that doesn't fix it i'll give the suspension bits some love.

Also i believe the driver door harness is damaged inside as the master seitch only opens the driver door window and the door speaker isn't working.

The AHC appears to go to low in the front only. The rear seems to stay in N and there is no high whatsoever. I'm planning to start with a new height sensor in the rear.

I have no service history but was supposedly 2 owners and well maintained. PO says he did the Tbelt/wpump at 120k so i'll prob knock that out at 220k.

My first question is what fluids would you flush at 200k? I'm thinking a trans flush might be good as i intend to tow with it.

 

[randomquickness]

Well i passed 200k. Having my buddy's shop change the oil and grease the drive line. I would normally diy but i'm in between moves so life is a bit chaotic. Next up i hope to tackle the door harness. Not being able to control the windows sucks!

 

[camino70]

Welcome! Nice looking truck.

I like to baseline my vehicles after purchase, I like my oil and filters better than whatever the PO used
It also gets me a little more acquainted too.

There are differing opinions on Trans flush, so read up and make an educated decision that works for you.


Do the windows work from their own door?

These pictures helped me a lot when I was pulling the escutcheon, I probably would have given up on pulling it.

7. Push a flat blade screwdriver (carefully) under the front edge of the window/lock control escutcheon, and push in the front of the spring retainer to get it to release from the door panel (look on the front of the first two photos, and you'll see what it looks like)

8. Remove the white wiring harness connector. This is what it looks like when removed.
View attachment 366676View attachment 366677View attachment 366678

from: Door panel removal process

 

[randomquickness]

Thanks! Yes, the windows work from their own doors, just not the master switch in my door.

Also, sadly greasing the drive line i still have the clunking. I will keep reading up on that. I can't tell if it feels like bad bushings or what. If i grab ahold of the drive shaft and rotate it from one direction to the other it feels like there is more play than there should be but i'm coming from euros and i'm far from being a mechanic. I just diy things whenever i can with help from forums like this!

 

[randomquickness]

Oh, and as far as the trans fluid, we checked it on the dipstick and it was VERY clean and red. Either the PO had it flushed thinking it would fix the clunk or these rigs are very kind to ATF.

 

[camino70]

I'd spend some time pumping more grease, it may be pretty dry and he only gave it a few pumps?
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread

Search for user paddo for info about ahc, but this is a diagram for the height control bracket, maybe something wrong with the rear?
AHC Sensor Adjustment for Lift

 

[randomquickness]

I'd spend some time pumping more grease, it may be pretty dry and he only gave it a few pumps?
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread

we pumped a pretty good amount, one held the grease gun while the other held the fitting tight. I didn't pump until grease came out past the seals though.

Search for user paddo for info about ahc, but this is a diagram for the height control bracket, maybe something wrong with the rear?
AHC Sensor Adjustment for Lift

I have done some reading and it appears to be the rear height sensor but won't be worrying about that repair yet. I just want to get the driveline slop fixed for now.

 

[randomquickness]

Did a little debadging today. The paint is a bit darker where the emblems were but from a distance you don't notice

 

[Spike555]

Set your baseline with fluids and filters. It's got 200k on it so how's the perfect time to change ALL fluids and filters, plugs, thermostat, coolant flush...do it all now and then you'll know that at "X" miles the trans needs service and at "Y" miles the diff's and t-case and so on.
Also check the spare tire, lower it, check the air pressure in it as well as the condition of it and the jack and tools.
I check my spare every 6mo, I set my baseline on fluids and filters with every used car I buy and the last time I was on a tow truck was over 20yrs ago.

 

[randomquickness]

So today i got a christmas tree of lights (abs, vsc trac, vsc off, and brake) followed by a burning smell inside the cabin. I know there is a slight exhaust leak but i never smelled it. Any chance these are related or just coincidence. I've already been searching and reading and haven't found these symtoms combined.

 

[aging fleet]

I'd start by swinging by your local Auto Zone and have them read the codes. That combinations of lights could be something as simple as a leaky gas cap. As far as the burning smell, hopefully that was just a coincidence.

 

[dr venkman]

hey y'all i'm matt. Been a car guy for quite a while but mostly euros. I recently picked up my first japanese daily ever, a 2000 LX 470. It had 197k on it and i'm nearing 200k. Aftersearching this forum i have found what appear to be solutions to the issues it has.

I believe i have the notorious clunk from the slip yoke/slip joint that needs greasing. If that doesn't fix it i'll give the suspension bits some love.

Also i believe the driver door harness is damaged inside as the master seitch only opens the driver door window and the door speaker isn't working.

The AHC appears to go to low in the front only. The rear seems to stay in N and there is no high whatsoever. I'm planning to start with a new height sensor in the rear.

I have no service history but was supposedly 2 owners and well maintained. PO says he did the Tbelt/wpump at 120k so i'll prob knock that out at 220k.

My first question is what fluids would you flush at 200k? I'm thinking a trans flush might be good as i intend to tow with it.

View attachment 1293242

Did you get rid of the clunk?

 

[randomquickness]

So the grease had no impact on my drivetrain clunk whatsoever.

Also it turns out i had a wheel speed sensor crap out right at the same time my valve cover gaskets srarted leaking oil onto the manifolds and nearly smoking me out of the thing!

My buddy is hooking me up on the valve cover labor since i'm in the process of 2 moves and i stole his m3. Gotta love car friends!

I'll replace the wheel speed sensor before my 1700 mile drive from houston to watertown new york.

 

[duggy]

Check your drive plates and see how the play is on them for the clunking issue

 

[dr venkman]

So the grease had no impact on my drivetrain clunk whatsoever.

Also it turns out i had a wheel speed sensor crap out right at the same time my valve cover gaskets srarted leaking oil onto the manifolds and nearly smoking me out of the thing!

My buddy is hooking me up on the valve cover labor since i'm in the process of 2 moves and i stole his m3. Gotta love car friends!

I'll replace the wheel speed sensor before my 1700 mile drive from houston to watertown new york.

So I had the dealer on it and they could not permanently stop it. Regreased. Went away a couple of days then gradually come back. Did it a couple of times, same thing. Replaced the driveline (their cost), same thing, came back after a few weeks. Time to change tranny fluid, had them do it, and completely went away. It was the damndest thing, well over 10k miles and clunk is completely gone, no hint of it. MAde me a little nervous for the first few thou miles but no other trouble at all. Weird.
I'd spin the m3 around a couple more days before trying it though...

 

[2001LC]

Three main reason for "CLUNK":

First you've been working on by greasing forward & aft propeller shaft yokes (AKA drive shafts) and spiders (aka u-joints). This clunk is generally associated with take-off from a stop. If play is in teeth of yoke spline (which is not common) you'll need to R&R propeller shaft(s). With age the play can get excusive in differential(s) or transferred case, do to improper maintenance more than anything else. Meaning not properly changing fluids at proper interval. Drain and have fluids tested by Black Stone may be reveling.

The second most common clunk is front drive shafts (AKA CV's, AKA front axles). This is associated with N to D clunk. Over time with improper wheel bearing service, axle & hub flange teeth become worn. Inspecting of hub flange to axle teeth by pulling grease cap can be reveling, a 5 minute job.

I've found some very shocking and damaging work done by corner repair shops. Wheel bearing and front drive shaft service more than any other components. Number one is wheel bearings set to loose. Number two is snap ring to hub flange gap to wide. Loose bearing set-up a chatter of wheel bearing. Wide gap of snap ring allows axle to move in and out....sawing action on axle and hub flange teeth. This excessive vibration seem to also transfer into inner axle teeth as well. Cure for this is replacing front drive shafts & hub flange.

100% of the time I find wheel bearing to loose when going back to check a corner Auto repair shops work. 30% of time I find front dive shafts missing outboard dust seal, along with inner knuckle seal missing. Almost always the axle needle bearing and bushing is not greased during wheel bearing service by these general machine auto repair shops.

Third is low or old transmission fluid. This one is easy to detect as jerks (clunks) when shifting during acceleration.

Learn how to work on, or use a specialist for 100's shop like Slee Off Road or a Dealer. With Dealer's I'd go into shop and get to know the mechanic, some newer guy's just don't know the 100's as they should.

Here some examples:
Lock washer all tabs bent inward, allowing locking & adjusting nut to walk off. Negligent shop.

Hub flange teeth worn:

Missing front drive shaft outboard dust seal & knuckle seal. Axle bushing packed with crud which leads to excessive wear of bushing, and widening snap ring gap to hub flange gap along with failure of bushing & axle needle bearing. Negligent shop.

Lack of caked-on grease above propeller shaft grease points, indicates improper maintenance. Oil changing shop typical don't know to grease these points, negligence.

Next thing I see most is not using torque wrench. I hate impact wrench's, they have their use which is not installing, ever.

 

[randomquickness]

Three main reason for "CLUNK":

First you've been working on by greasing forward & aft propeller shaft yokes (AKA drive shafts) and spiders (aka u-joints). This clunk is generally associated with take-off from a stop. If play is in teeth of yoke spline (which is not common) you'll need to R&R propeller shaft(s). With age the play can get excusive in differential(s) or transferred case, do to improper maintenance more than anything else. Meaning not properly changing fluids at proper interval. Drain and have fluids tested by Black Stone may be reveling.

The second most common clunk is front drive shafts (AKA CV's, AKA front axles). This is associated with N to D clunk. Over time with improper wheel bearing service, axle & hub flange teeth become worn. Inspecting of hub flange to axle teeth by pulling grease cap can be reveling, a 5 minute job.

I've found some very shocking and damaging work done by corner repair shops. Wheel bearing and front drive shaft service more than any other components. Number one is wheel bearings set to loose. Number two is snap ring to hub flange gap to wide. Loose bearing set-up a chatter of wheel bearing. Wide gap of snap ring allows axle to move in and out....sawing action on axle and hub flange teeth. This excessive vibration seem to also transfer into inner axle teeth as well. Cure for this is replacing front drive shafts & hub flange.

100% of the time I find wheel bearing to loose when going back to check a corner Auto repair shops work. 30% of time I find front dive shafts missing outboard dust seal, along with inner knuckle seal missing. Almost always the axle needle bearing and bushing is not greased during wheel bearing service by these general machine auto repair shops.

Third is low or old transmission fluid. This one is easy to detect as jerks (clunks) when shifting during acceleration.

Learn how to work on, or use a specialist for 100's shop like Slee Off Road or a Dealer. With Dealer's I'd go into shop and get to know the mechanic, some newer guy's just don't know the 100's as they should.

Here some examples:
Lock washer all tabs bent inward, allowing locking & adjusting nut to walk off. Negligent shop.
View attachment 1301903

Hub flange teeth worn:
View attachment 1301902

Missing front drive shaft outboard dust seal & knuckle seal. Axle bushing packed with crud which leads to excessive wear of bushing, and widening snap ring gap to hub flange gap along with failure of bushing & axle needle bearing. Negligent shop.
View attachment 1301904

Lack of caked-on grease above propeller shaft grease points, indicates improper maintenance. Oil changing shop typical don't know to grease these points, negligence.
View attachment 1301905

Next thing I see most is not using torque wrench. I hate impact wrench's, they have their use which is not installing, ever.

Thanks for the details! Sounds like my clunk is likely the second reason. It is very noticeable when going between park/drive/reverse. I do also notice it when i lift off the throttle and then re-apply. Assuming my oil leak/smoke show is fixed now i'll be looking into the front drive shafts. The PO swore he kept up with all maintenance but i'm starting to think he did little more than get the oil changed.

 

[2001LC]

Many think they are doing proper maintenance. They just take to corner shop a say do what it needs, but just really don't have a clue.

With high millage its not uncommon to find clunk is more than one issue, depending on how maintained. Many clues once you know how to spot them.

BTW I just found a very leaky set of valve covers. Bolts all needed 1/2 or more turn just to get to 6ft lbf torque. The seals in these rigs are great, and often just 5 minutes to tighten stop that leak.

 

[randomquickness]

Well with help from my friend I've replaced the valve cover gaskets including grommets, all spark plugs, all coil pack boots (2 ripped), the serpentine belt, and air filter.

There was still a bit of a smoke smell on the highway but after inspection of the valve cover gaskets there is no new oil anywhere so I'm hoping it is just some residual oil on the exhaust.

Today I ordered the right rear wheel speed sensor as well as the rear AHC sensor.

I honestly hoped I was buying a vehicle which wouldn't require this much attention this soon but I can't say I'm really surprised considering the mileage on it. Oh well, I will have her sorted out soon enough and then I'll do the things I WANT to do which are spidertrax 1.25" spacers and 265/75/16 KO2s. After that I think I'll be diving into the double din HU and speakers.

Thanks again for all the help! I've spent quite a bit of time searching/reading good info on this forum!

 

[camino70]

If the coil packs you replaced hadn't failed yet, keep them for back ups, even with ripped boots.

Keep an eye on the valve cover bolts, they have a habit of loosening up ever so slightly.