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camino70 said:
If the coil packs you replaced hadn't failed yet, keep them for back ups, even with ripped boots.

Keep an eye on the valve cover bolts, they have a habit of loosening up ever so slightly.
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Didn't replace any coil packs. Was about to do all 8 until i saw the price. I just replaced the boots where they suck onto the spark plugs.
 
Nice lookin LX! Gotta love the Riverrock Metallic ;) I would not do the spacers as it might wear out your front end faster IMO... But ditch the runningboards :steer:
 
Traskew3 said:
Nice lookin LX! Gotta love the Riverrock Metallic ;) I would not do the spacers as it might wear out your front end faster IMO... But ditch the runningboards :steer:
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Thanks! care to elaborate on the spacers? I wasn't aware spacers were wearing out front ends on these. What exactly fails? I would imagine running larger heavier tires would cause more premature wear than spacers.

also, I kind of like the running boards and my wife is 5'2 so... those will probably stay for the foreseeable future. Maybe if I go full offroad someday they'd come off.
 
Update: replaced rear AHC sensor, didn't fix it.

Went to replace cabin filters and found this

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I also found the cause of my burning smell and it was NOT oil dripping on the manifold! Apparently my muffler split open and was heating up the frame rail and melted a whole section of the wire harness.

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So my friend and i both had to fly out of town so as much as i hated to do this, i left it with a lexus specialist in Austin. The owner of the shop believes he can cut out the toasted part of the harness and patch in a new section. The quotes i got for a new harness ranged from $1400-$1800 not including labor. Let's keep our fingers crossed the indie shop can get me fixed out the door under 2k. He also mentioned i need new AHC accumulators from how it bounced when he pulled it in the shop.
 
update time! So I had meineke replace the trashed muffler and then the indie shop managed to rebuild my wire harness. All said and done I'm under $1100 for the repair (MUCH better than I was anticipating being used to euro cars.) On top of that, the AHC now WORKS! yay! Apparently the sensor we replaced was not the issue with AHC, it was the toasted harness. The vehicle was having AHC issues when I bought it so now I'm confident this all started before I purchased it and while I was cruising at 90mph (not really speeding on this TX road) the muffler split open further from the heat and got that frame rail hot enough to melt plastic.

While it was in the shop I asked that he give my heater T's a look as well as my driver door switch. My buddy already verifed there weren't any damaged wires in the driver door harness. They said it is indeed the master switch which needs to be replaced so I'll diy that one when I get a chance.

Picking her up tomorrow and if all goes well I'll be towing a trailer 1700 miles to upstate NY this weekend.
 
Well, she took me on the longest drive of my life to date. Not one hiccup! And that was with a trailer and 2000 lbs of stuff packed in. I'm so glad that indie shop actually knew what they were doing and repaired the toasted harness rather than leaving it at a dealer to attempt replacing it at a much higher cost!

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Gave her the first wash since i bought her. In the six weeks of ownership i have already put 8k miles on her. Also decided to test the tcase lock for the first time and seemed to function properly. Also the photos show the AHC in HI setting. Shouldn't the front sit as high as the rear? I feel like it should be nore level. Perhaps the sensors need adjustment?

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Regarding height adjustment: going from "N" to "H" should change the front by 30-45mm (1.18-1.77 inch) and the rear by 40-55mm (1.87-2.17 inch). At least according to the 2000 LX factory service manual. The FSM has a procedure to measure vehicle height as part of the alignment process.
 
2001LC said:
Three main reason for "CLUNK":

First you've been working on by greasing forward & aft propeller shaft yokes (AKA drive shafts) and spiders (aka u-joints). This clunk is generally associated with take-off from a stop. If play is in teeth of yoke spline (which is not common) you'll need to R&R propeller shaft(s). With age the play can get excusive in differential(s) or transferred case, do to improper maintenance more than anything else. Meaning not properly changing fluids at proper interval. Drain and have fluids tested by Black Stone may be reveling.

The second most common clunk is front drive shafts (AKA CV's, AKA front axles). This is associated with N to D clunk. Over time with improper wheel bearing service, axle & hub flange teeth become worn. Inspecting of hub flange to axle teeth by pulling grease cap can be reveling, a 5 minute job.

I've found some very shocking and damaging work done by corner repair shops. Wheel bearing and front drive shaft service more than any other components. Number one is wheel bearings set to loose. Number two is snap ring to hub flange gap to wide. Loose bearing set-up a chatter of wheel bearing. Wide gap of snap ring allows axle to move in and out....sawing action on axle and hub flange teeth. This excessive vibration seem to also transfer into inner axle teeth as well. Cure for this is replacing front drive shafts & hub flange.

100% of the time I find wheel bearing to loose when going back to check a corner Auto repair shops work. 30% of time I find front dive shafts missing outboard dust seal, along with inner knuckle seal missing. Almost always the axle needle bearing and bushing is not greased during wheel bearing service by these general machine auto repair shops.

Third is low or old transmission fluid. This one is easy to detect as jerks (clunks) when shifting during acceleration.

Learn how to work on, or use a specialist for 100's shop like Slee Off Road or a Dealer. With Dealer's I'd go into shop and get to know the mechanic, some newer guy's just don't know the 100's as they should.

Here some examples:
Lock washer all tabs bent inward, allowing locking & adjusting nut to walk off. Negligent shop.
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Hub flange teeth worn:
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Missing front drive shaft outboard dust seal & knuckle seal. Axle bushing packed with crud which leads to excessive wear of bushing, and widening snap ring gap to hub flange gap along with failure of bushing & axle needle bearing. Negligent shop.
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Lack of caked-on grease above propeller shaft grease points, indicates improper maintenance. Oil changing shop typical don't know to grease these points, negligence.
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Next thing I see most is not using torque wrench. I hate impact wrench's, they have their use which is not installing, ever.
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Great thorough write up!
 
Well i had the front half shafts replaced since the boots were bad anyway and the clunk improved slightly but def not eliminated. I also ordered some weathertech liners and vent shades for the windows.

Bought a window switch from a member on here, just waiting to receive it.

And installed proper tires finally!

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Tested out the ko2s and took it offroad for the first time. I was very impressed with the capability of this thing. It is def better offroad than my old grand cherokees i used to have. That tcase lock is awesome and i can only imagine what y'all with lockers can do!

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