New member- Head gasket question

[Captbc]

Although they all “look good”, belts and hoses are on the list before moving

 

[Captbc]

The PHH is silicone , I found a receipt in the file for it. I’ll do it as well, it seems to be a rite of passage

 

[SpenserAK]

PO replaced it with silicone

At least it's replaced, but I'd look into the cons of silicone for coolant hoses

A weep/leak is certainly better than bursting, though

 

[Captbc]

If you carry the logic of replacing the PHH just because it’s going to go, and when it does it’s bad to the known HG issue, that’s my logic

 

[Captbc]

At least it's replaced, but I'd look into the cons of silicone for coolant hoses

A weep/leak is certainly better than bursting, though

They’re all being refreshed when I do the HG. I don’t like sil for that application

 

[SpenserAK]

If you carry the logic of replacing the PHH just because it’s going to go, and when it does it’s bad to the known HG issue, that’s my logic

Any original PHH on a 80 would need it. No way the original rubber against the block would be good/trustworthy. I do get the logic and don't disagree with your point, but application to the HG topic doesn't transfer the same way, let alone the massive difference in work & cost. Man, I wish doing a HG were remotely as easy/cheap as that little hose!

I'd be changing it too just cause, but the silicone is far better than an original PHH...

 

[jaymar]

At least it's replaced, but I'd look into the cons of silicone for coolant hoses

A weep/leak is certainly better than bursting, though

Haha; I didn't want to panic him. I wouldn't use it anywhere else. If you want to run a 52-inch bypass with Gates GreenStripe, the job gets 10x easier and you add more coolant to the system...

 

[robnicko]

based on my experience having owned mine from new and the HG failing at 480thou Km's my 1st question would be is the coolant in it the Toyota Red LLC?

Ive always run LLC and when my HG went and I pulled it apart the insides of the hoses which were all original were like new, including the PHH which I ended up replacing with a new one. The coolant ports in the head were shiny new as well, no sign whatsoever of any gunky buildup or discoloration.

Apart from that as long as you treat the motor right and have a well maintained cooling system then it should be fine. Just keep an eye on coolant levels for a while and / or check spark plugs for signs - if using the red LLC it will show up on a plug as a reddish haze if coolant gets in there

 

[flintknapper]

On a LC that you know you're going to keep and that you know (eventually) the original HG is going to go, I'm with you. Replace on your own terms. Some will object....and that's fine. As always...I simply submit: Each person needs to decide based on the inconvenience a blown head gasket would pose with respect to the worst possible timing (which is when it will happen it seems).

My own head gasket held until 316K miles, but I've owned the vehicle since it was 3 yrs. old (just turned in off a corporate lease, with full maintenance history). I am a pretty much a maintenance freak and do all the service myself. So mine probably lasted longer than most. But its going to go at some point.

'Preventative' maintenance can be taken to an extreme, I get that. But for some....I swear they'd rather walk barefoot across broken glass than fix/replace an item before it fails.

While you are at it....check the things that would leave you on the side of the road (on your long trip). ALL hoses (particularly the PHH), condition of the radiator (if old can leak or split at the top). Heater valve (can look good...but be bad).

Have few spare parts with you. (crank sensor will leave you dead in the water). TPS.

Fuel pumps tend to be reliable in these vehicles....no worry there.

Check all your U-Joints make sure they are in good shape and greased.

Good luck on your trip, be careful.

Flint.

 

[Captbc]

based on my experience having owned mine from new and the HG failing at 480thou Km's my 1st question would be is the coolant in it the Toyota Red LLC?

Ive always run LLC and when my HG went and I pulled it apart the insides of the hoses which were all original were like new, including the PHH which I ended up replacing with a new one. The coolant ports in the head were shiny new as well, no sign whatsoever of any gunky buildup or discoloration.

Apart from that as long as you treat the motor right and have a well maintained cooling system then it should be fine. Just keep an eye on coolant levels for a while and / or check spark plugs for signs - if using the red LLC it will show up on a plug as a reddish haze if coolant gets in there

Unfortunately the coolant is green, with the accompanying sludgy stuff in the overflow tank, etc.

 

[SaturnAscends]

I wouldn’t do the head gasket, unless it seeping a lot of coolant or burning a significant amount of oil from the valve stem seals. It opens up a whole can of worms on an old truck like that, and if anything, it might create more issues than it solves.

For instance, you have to worry about whether to machine the head or not. And if you do, there’s a question of it affecting timing etc. It can be hard to find a good machine shop nowadays. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Captbc]

On a LC that you know you're going to keep and that you know (eventually) the original HG is going to go, I'm with you. Replace on your own terms. Some will object....and that's fine. As always...I simply submit: Each person needs to decide based on the inconvenience a blown head gasket would pose with respect to the worst possible timing (which is when it will happen it seems).

My own head gasket held until 316K miles, but I've owned the vehicle since it was 3 yrs. old (just turned in off a corporate lease, with full maintenance history). I am a pretty much a maintenance freak and do all the service myself. So mine probably lasted longer than most. But its going to go at some point.

'Preventative' maintenance can be taken to an extreme, I get that. But for some....I swear they'd rather walk barefoot across broken glass than fix/replace an item before it fails.

While you are at it....check the things that would leave you on the side of the road (on your long trip). ALL hoses (particularly the PHH), condition of the radiator (if old can leak or split at the top). Heater valve (can look good...but be bad).

View attachment 3239732

Have few spare parts with you. (crank sensor will leave you dead in the water). TPS.

Fuel pumps tend to be reliable in these vehicles....no worry there.

Check all your U-Joints make sure they are in good shape and greased.

Good luck on your trip, be careful.

Flint.

Glad you understand my thought process. I’m a retired trucker ( owner operator) and had my own shop for my 3-4 truck fleet. I hauled critical time equipment and chemicals,& failure was very costly. Also being an aviator, aircraft maintenance is in my blood. I know am 80 series isn’t a plane and it’s not my livelihood, but breakdowns that are foreseeable I address. Kinda like a “maypop” tire. The thing was free to begin with, so some investment in future reliability and not being left stranded is not unreasonable to me. Seen motors destroyed by HG and other failures, it’s the peace of mind I’m after. I’ve been on the fence about it, guess I’m hoping something would nudge me one way or the other.

 

[Captbc]

I wouldn’t do the head gasket, unless it seeping a lot of coolant or burning a significant amount of oil from the valve stem seals. It opens up a whole can of worms on an old truck like that, and if anything, it might create more issues than it solves.

For instance, you have to worry about whether to machine the head or not. And if you do, there’s a question of it affecting timing etc. It can be hard to find a good machine shop nowadays. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for your thoughts. The while you’re in there stuff can be a whole other issue, I get it. I have an excellent machine shop I use from my trucking days, a head refresh is a no brainer at 150K miles. I could be disassembling a happy motor thats only half way mileage wise to having a problem, or I could find broken timing chain guides, etc. The bottom end is famously durable in these, and regular maintenance has been consistent so it should be good for another 150K at least.
im 65 now, it’s a weekend driver so I’ll probably never see 300K on it. If I do it now, most likely it’s good for the rest of my life, and peace of mind is worth a lot to me. Thanks for the input

 

[jaymar]

Engine-wise, if you're boring out the cylinders before 250k minimum, you're shortening the life of the engine. If you rebuild, avoid overboring. Crosshatching should still be visible. I'd be much more concerned about old hoses, bushings, knuckles, joints, axle seals, front main and oil pump seals--things that wear or just degrade long before the powerplant--and some of which (heating system) can damage the engine if they fail.

 

[ToothDr]

Sweet truck. Congrats. I’d be more concerned about any 27 year old rubber hoses, critical plastic parts ( heater valve) not replaced on the rig yet. Also the radiator if still original to the truck.

 

[flintknapper]

Engine-wise, if you're boring out the cylinders before 250k minimum, you're shortening the life of the engine. If you rebuild, avoid overboring. Crosshatching should still be visible. I'd be much more concerned about old hoses, bushings, knuckles, joints, axle seals, front main and oil pump seals--things that wear or just degrade long before the powerplant--and some of which (heating system) can damage the engine if they fail.

Agreed. Mine still had cross hatching in all cylinders at 316K. And great compression still.

Bottom end is still going strong at 340K.

 

[Captbc]

Thanks. Like I said, the bottom end on these are so robust that I’m not really concerned about it, especially given its service history. The 11 months of daily use (15,302 mi) produced surprisingly few problems, which I dealt with as they occurred. I was waiting for the oil pump cover, axles, etc to start acting up in that period, especially since I towed with it. Nothing. It leaves nothing on the garage floor. I’m doing all coolant hoses (all but PHH have the cotter pins), local radiator shop will approve of rad. or it’ll be replaced, HCV, repacking the birfs, flushing the brake system, and making sure the entire cooling system is 100%. Looking into the Wits end blue fan clutch, can’t move too much air especially using the A/C which I think is the coldest I’ve ever seen in a passenger vehicle. (Wish we’d gotten the dual evaporators like everyone else) Adding a Scantool with alarms. I guess I’m overly paranoid on the HG, the few times I’ve had HG problems it hasn’t been the slow, lotsa warning kind of experience, it’s been the catastrophic or scary type. One was on a Piper Archer II, (light plane) that was less than 50 hrs. from mandatory top end overhaul, and it ran great till it didn’t. Thanks guys for the input, I’ll do a compression test this week, but I imagine all is good there by the way she runs.

 

[jaymar]

Thanks. Like I said, the bottom end on these are so robust that I’m not really concerned about it, especially given its service history. The 11 months of daily use (15,302 mi) produced surprisingly few problems, which I dealt with as they occurred. I was waiting for the oil pump cover, axles, etc to start acting up in that period, especially since I towed with it. Nothing. It leaves nothing on the garage floor. I’m doing all coolant hoses (all but PHH have the cotter pins), local radiator shop will approve of rad. or it’ll be replaced, HCV, repacking the birfs, flushing the brake system, and making sure the entire cooling system is 100%. Looking into the Wits end blue fan clutch, can’t move too much air especially using the A/C which I think is the coldest I’ve ever seen in a passenger vehicle. (Wish we’d gotten the dual evaporators like everyone else) Adding a Scantool with alarms. I guess I’m overly paranoid on the HG, the few times I’ve had HG problems it hasn’t been the slow, lotsa warning kind of experience, it’s been the catastrophic or scary type. One was on a Piper Archer II, (light plane) that was less than 50 hrs. from mandatory top end overhaul, and it ran great till it didn’t. Thanks guys for the input, I’ll do a compression test this week, but I imagine all is good there by the way she runs.

Fan clutches are now back with @landtank check his site.

 

[Captbc]

Fan clutches are now back with @landtank check his site.

Thanks!