new here and first time fj owner

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So apparently you can wake the 3fe up quite a bit! Desmogged it, removed all egr related equipment. Removed the cats. Timed it correctly(was sitting at 4BTDC?). Adjusted the TPI, cleaned out the throttle body. And did the AFM trick. Now I have a nice smooth idle dead nuts right at 900 RPMs finally.
Passing traffic getting onto the freeway with very little effort is a nice change.
 
http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/4948993597.htmlhtml
I think I found my donor rig for the leaf swap and possibly future small block/ manual swap. And some beefier axles for said possible future swap. I've had pretty good luck with previous mechanical fuel injection on some of my earlier chevys. Or I could always go TBI.
Anyways checking it out tomorrow to see what kind of shape its in.
 
And forgot to add that with the work I did over the weekend I also did the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. I could spray some carb cleaner and get some idle hop. Scary part was the forwars exhaust manifold was litteraly a quarter turn from finger tight. But it was looking to be about a half hour job until I noticed that same forward exhaust manifold flange was welded to the down pipe. And the only bolt I broke was the cross pipe flange bolt after the cat and when I was bolting up the exhaust I snapped both to the rear manifold flange. So since I had to remove it I decided to cut the forward pipe and weld in another flange for future ease...

And that's when the Friday evening job turned into a weekend job. 95% because of my failure to follow the measure twice, cut/weld once.
 
Was going to do my swap this weekend, but I don't hink the first test on it should be a 2 hour freeway trip, so ill get started whenwe get back from the mining claim
 
Thought my AFM mod was giving me problems because I was pull a weird code... Had to grab another one go to put it on and realize I'm now part of the duct tape tube club... I'll grab an O'Reilly make it myselfer tomorrow... So I have an extra one if anyone running the 3FE needs one.

Also noticed I'm randomly leaking out of the rear main after getting my oil changed.. Yey... AND my drivers knuckle is nice and sloppy... Is it possible to get the kit to me and installed before Friday? Maybe maybe? I'm gonna have to try I think.. Or band aid it
 
Buy Marlin's inner axle seals. Just clean and reuse everything else. Unless the trunions are destroyed. MC shipping has been about five days
 
I have no slop anywhere luckily. IIRC I do not have to pull thirds right? I've always done the inner seals with gears or lockers. I was trying to wait till I was doing that to get to it because it was showing signs. But I don't want any problems a couple hours away from home
 
No need to pull the third, just pull the outer's and the axle and the seal will be sitting there. How does the gear oil look that you drained?
 
Buy Marlin's inner axle seals. Just clean and reuse everything else. Unless the trunions are destroyed. MC shipping has been about five days

DO NOT run Marlin's inner axle seals on an 80!!!! They don't play nice with that front end. I learned this the hard way on my 80. The factory seal is designed to seal around the axle even if it is off-center and the Marlin's aren't. Just put factory seals back in there.
 
I was just reading that! Thank you sir
DO NOT run Marlin's inner axle seals on an 80!!!! They don't play nice with that front end. I learned this the hard way on my 80. The factory seal is designed to seal around the axle even if it is off-center and the Marlin's aren't. Just put factory seals back in there.
 
Sorry was thinking 60 series front for some reason.

I dont get what the issue is with the 80 axle though?
Does marlin make different sesls for the mini as opposed to 80?

The reason this doesn't make sense to me is i run spooled front, which should be as hard on inners as anything else?
 
I couldn't tell ya. ive never had an issue on any of my mini's with the MC seals. I don't know where they bit the bullet doing 80's
 
Sorry was thinking 60 series front for some reason.

I dont get what the issue is with the 80 axle though?
Does marlin make different sesls for the mini as opposed to 80?

The reason this doesn't make sense to me is i run spooled front, which should be as hard on inners as anything else?
They have a different part number, so they must be different. Wonder why they don't play nice with the 80 crowd. Or did they run the original seal for the mini's for a while and then revamp them for the 80 crowd once this problem arose. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
 
Gear oil isn't bad at all actually. but I changed it a few days after the bacon run.
I wouldn't worry about pulling the diff then.

Overwhelming results say stick with OEM seals, I know I'm running some cheap aftermarket seals front and rear since I bought the thing years ago and I have had no leaks since.
 
I wouldn't worry about pulling the diff then.

Overwhelming results say stick with OEM seals, I know I'm running some cheap aftermarket seals front and rear since I bought the thing years ago and I have had no leaks since.

Im going to run whichever ones I can get here and installed the soonest without having to pay next day air type of charges
 
xWhatever, dont run Marlin seals. Known fact they fail for whatever reason on 80's. They have an extra lip or something that doesn't play well with 80. Just get some OEM and be flat done with it.
 
The reason the MC seals don't play nice with the 80-series axle is the knuckles on an 80 isn't shimmed like other SFA Toyotas. Because of that, the axle shaft doesn't ride dead center of the seal. On the factory seal, it's not a problem. You can push down on the seal (like if your finger is the axle) and the top will move the same amount. With the MC seal, it deforms and allows 90w into the birfs.
 

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