New Guy needs help with LX450 purchase

[lalvarado]

Good morning everyone,

Went to look at a 96 LX450 yesterday and took some photos. Everything looked good cosmetically except for a few minor things (antenna and some of the cladding appears to be loose and could use new rubber stripping around the wheel archs....easy fixes I would assume). After reading the newbie guide, I made sure to look at the knuckles and for any leaks. Hopefully I've attached the photos properly. Wanted to get some opinions on them. All your help is appreciated.

Lorenzo

Here is the vehicle on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2486592485&category=13473

 

[lurker]

If you pick that up for $12,500 that's one heck of a deal, for a Houston LX.

BTW you have what appears as a real engine seal leak, same as me. I believe that it's common, but others can/will give better advice.

 

[Tools R Us]

Looks good, I love the color.

Bummer about the roof rack, porches (running boards) and NO LOCKERS!

 

[Beowulf]

Lorenzo,

The knuckles look normal to me for a 75k mile vehicle that very likely has not had a knuckle service. The wetness indicates a slight seepage of diff fluid past the axle tube seal and there is probably some diff soup in the knuckles though it's not bad at all.

If you purchase this vehicle, plan to spend a long weekend and do the knuckle service within the first year of ownership. I would check the level of grease in the knuckle and add some moly grease if needed. As with any used vehicle purchase you should baseline all the fluids; especially the front diff to get a look at the amount of grease that has mixed with the diff fluid.

(Later...)
Those shocks look like OME. If so, that is very unusual for a mall cruiser. They definitely are not the stock shocks though the rest of the truck looks virgin.

I also agree that it's a bummer that one didn't get the locker option 'cause it sure looks like a nice truck otherwise.

-B-

 

[Tooth Fairy]

Mine has leaked for about 4-5 years now and it never leaves any drops, it just stays moist. The rear leak is a real big deal to fix, if it's bad enough that you wanna do something about it. I haven't on mine, but, I just did a '97LX450 a little while ago and, well, it's a big deal. If you don't do the work yourself you're looking at a hefty labor bill. Somewhere near $800? Not sure. The knuckles should be done too, but they don't look real bad at this point either. The first service on mine was done at about 200K miles and by that point most everything was replaced because it needed to be. Get it done as soon as you can.

That thing doesn't have any miles on it. I'd buy it for sure.

 

[Rookie2]

Yea, that's a good looking truck... alot like mine. It does appear to have the fairly typical rear main/pan arch leak, although someone has wiped of the wet stuff where it drains out of the bottom at the tranny interface.

She won't go for $12,500, but good luck.


Rookie2

 

[dnp]

I looked at the underside of this truck, and the bottom of the drivetrain looks just like mine (slightly wet in appearance) However, when I went in search of the source of my "leak," I determined that what appeard to be wet was really more like tar in consistency - you know, like the underside (or at least the entire tunnel, in my case) had been undercoated.....has anyone ever determined if Toyota or any regional distributors ever sprayed the tunnel and/or underside with any type of under coating? As I said, when I tried to wipe down what appered to be wet, it wasn't even thinking about coming off.....and it still looked wet

Any thoughts?......................

 

[sjcruiser]

If you don't like the rear main seapage then it's worth trying Valvoline Maxlife for one oil change interval.

 

[lalvarado]

Thanks for all the replies.

Tools R Us,

This truck would be used as a family hauler (bike trails is about as far offroad as she would get) so the lockers weren't that important to me.


Beowulf,

The shocks have been replaced. If I remember correctly they are Monroe Gas Magnums.

I did see the records/receipts from the Lexus dealership that included the the 10k?, 30k, 60k maintenance. Maybe I should have stated this in my first post. Man do they charge a pretty penny. They did indicate bearings being repacked. Would that be the same as knuckle service?

DNP,

Since this is Gulf Coast distributed truck, it has been undercoated by the Distributor.

As far as price. The current owner will not take anything under 16k. He will just send it off to college with his son. Anyone have any thoughts on that price. I don't want to make any costly mistakes, I currently drive a 98 Grand Cherokee SE .

Lorenzo

 

[MoJ]

Thanks for all the replies.

They did indicate bearings being repacked. Would that be the same as knuckle service?


Lorenzo

NO.

 

[ace10]

my $0.02 says that $16K is all the money for a private party sale.

for a "sort-of" reference we paid a hair over $15K for a 1994 cruiser during the winter of 02-03 (coming up on two years ago). it was optioned similar to the LX but had lockers. 80K miles.

it was purchased from a good toyota dealer and appeared to be up to date on service with no obvious flaws. i was happy with the purchase and have enjoyed since. the lockers were a big deal to me and i was willing to pay a premium for them. if you're seeking a DD only, then this rig might be right for you and your family.

best of luck to you.
aaron

 

[acf]

Great looking truck. Good luck.

 

[RavenTai]

That is a clean looking 80 from the pictures, it has obviously been ultra detailed but also was likely fairly clean before, (detailing can only cover so much)

To bad no lockers, for me that would be a showstopper, many people (not all) think they will never want them and pull the trigger on one without wind up wanting them later (1.5-3K$ mistake)

If the flares are loose likely the supports are broken, to fix you will need new ones, the right rear on mine was rubbed by the PO on her garage door it broke all the plastic lugs inside, it was hanging on by just a few bits so I removed it, having a hard time finding a cheap used replacement

I have the same looking leak at the rear of the motor, wet oil on the bottom of the bell housing and road grime/oil mix blown back onto the tranny pan, I have not troubleshot it to the pan arch or rear main, either one would be a pain to fix, Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 almost stopped the leak, as I have cleaned the area and it has not returned

I paid 15.5K$ for my 96 LX with 106K miles, 100% southern life (read little rust) and a more stained interior but with lockers at the beginning of the year, 80 prices are falling quickly though, I think it is because most are past 100K miles (metal # for many)

 

[cruiserdan]

If you pick that up for $12,500 that's one heck of a deal, for a Houston LX.

BTW you have what appears as a real engine seal leak, same as me. I believe that it's common, but others can/will give better advice.

That is a minor pan-arch leak IMHO. It could be ignored/monitored for a long time before corrective action is required.

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

How important are the lockers? I mean, I understand what a locker does and how it works, but is the 80 a capable vehicle without them? I am looking to buy, and 83K appears to be a low miler, but no diff locks. I would probably wind up installing as $$$ allows, but I'm going to be running at least one winter without them. Am I making a mistake to buy one without?

 

[cruiserdan]

Difflocks have a geometric effect on the capability of a vehicle when it is off road. An un-locked 80 is a fine off road vehicle, a locked 80 is VERY difficult to improve upon. Locks often make the difference between horse-whipping a vehicle through a tough spot or just "putting" throuh. I have been in situations where the vehicle has been unable to proceede with open diffs and the choice was whip it or lock the diffs. inevetibly locking the diffs enables the vehicle to "walk" through where you would need to beat it, or winch it, or strap it.

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

Thanks, I just want to make sure that I'm not buying something that won't serve my needs. Since you seem so knowledgeable about 80's (the full-time 4WD partially eludes me), let me ask you, am I correct in assuming that the center diff functions as an open diff (power to the wheels that slip) when in high, and when in low it locks into a mode where equal power is sent to both axles (where without lockers then, each one of those pairs of wheels will then get power as they slip) Do I have this concept down yet or am I off?

 

[cruiserdan]

In essence you are correct. The 80 series has a "differential" contained within the transfer case. This diff is normally open to allow power division between front and rear in the same manner as an open axle would divide power from side to side. Depending on the year model in question and any previous modifications made, it is possible to control the center diff in different manners. In all cases the center is normally open in high range and normally locked in low range. In vehicles without ABS, Toyota installed a switch that enabled the operator to lock the center in high range as required. ABS equipped vehicles, as produced, are open on high range and locked in low range.

It is possible to add the switch to ABS equipped vehicles in order to allow locking in high range. It is also possible to defeat the automatic locking of the center when the transfer is shifted into low by performing the "pin7 mod" first employed by yours truly........

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

How difficult is it to install such a switch? I would definitely need that, even before locking diffs. Since you are also a self admitted parts geek, is there anywhere I can locate a grey dash cover that looks stock? That woodgrain gives me a headache. Makes me think I'm driving a logflume at Six Flags.

 

[cruiserdan]

Look here:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_cdl_pin7mod.htm


And here:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/installation/difflock_install.htm