New desmog, rebuilt carb & dizzy, won't start. DIAG (1 Viewer)

[Nate98]

OK. My long bolts connecting the intake and exhaust manifolds are really beat up. I'd like to replace rather than risking one breaking off inside. Does anyone know where to find them?

90101-10485 (the longer one)
90101-10486 (two of the shorter ones)

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The dealer still has them or Toyota parts deal.

 

[micruz60]

Recommend that studs and nuts be used instead of the bolts.

 

[Nate98]

The dealer still has them or Toyota parts deal.

90101-10485 Genuine Toyota Bolt, HEXAGON

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 90101-10485 (9010110485) Bolt, HEXAGON. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

I'm getting that it is discontinued.

These are the 3 bolts that only have threading on the bottom. The middle one is longer than the other two. They start on the intake and go down into the exhaust.

Regarding the two that go up from the exhaust and into the intake, I am considering using studs and nuts for those because the soft aluminum threading on the intake side is stripping out.

 

[Nate98]

Has anyone else found a source? CruiserParts says they have them but they list the Center bolt and the two side bolts as the same item, but they are not. That center bolt is a longer than the other two. It’s the one that I really need the most.

 

[OSS]

It's too insignificant a part for there to be a designated aftermarket replacement. It's just a bolt. Measure what you've got and get a replacement from McMaster Carr. It'll likely be better than the original if you choose a high grade variant.

If you get the bolts out of the intake without damage, the aluminum threads in the intake will not be as strong as they were when it was new. Be very careful tightening the two manifolds back together. It's easy to strip those threads. Be prepared to install inserts for stripped threads.

 

[Spike Strip]

Look at www.belmetric.com I'm pretty sure that's a M8x1.25 bolt but best to verify. Used to be the last two digits of the part # for bolts was the length in mm, but it's not always correct and I don't think it is in this case. You'll prolly have to measure the one you've got.

Bolts - Hex Bolts 10.9 - BelMetric

www.belmetric.com

It may be difficult to find a JIS that length, but if anyone has it, BelMetric will. A DIN bolt will be easier but have a 13mm vs 12mm head.

Studs are a good idea. I used studs into the Thermostat housing so I never have to deal with stripped alum again.

 

[Nate98]

It's too insignificant a part for there to be a designated aftermarket replacement. It's just a bolt. Measure what you've got and get a replacement from McMaster Carr. It'll likely be better than the original if you choose a high grade variant.

If you get the bolts out of the intake without damage, the aluminum threads in the intake will not be as strong as they were when it was new. Be very careful tightening the two manifolds back together. It's easy to strip those threads. Be prepared to install inserts for stripped threads.

I already know at least one side of the aluminum is stripped. I’m hoping a bolt and nut combo there will work. This is the bolt that starts underneath in the iron exhaust and then screws into that soft intake. Have people had luck with this? Otherwise I’ll have to retap.

 

[Nate98]

Update: I removed manifolds, reset gaskets and reinstalled. Took care to slowly follow bolt tightening order. I used bolt and nut combo on the two bolts going up from the exhaust to the intake manifold that were threading into that soft, stripped aluminum of the intake. After all of that, my vacuum leak seems solved. Starting, especially cold is great. Timing seems to be good. Used ligjht and set to 7 degree "bb".

In the meantime, I had a brake fluid leak that had to be fixed. The leak went into the booster, so I got a new one from City Racer.

Now I've been driving it for about a week. Things are much better. But there are a couple of issues I have noticed.
1. When I let off gas after driving a bit, I hear some light "spitting". It's not a backfire that I feel, but I hear that spitting hiss noise. Any ideas?
2. When starting after the engine is hot, I have to press the gas pedal all the way down as I turn ignition for it to start. Then it starts right up, but any combo of choke or pre-pumping of gas before turning ignition doesn't seem to do the trick when engine is already hot. The engine start really easily cold. Don't need choke most mornings.

Thanks in advance to the brain-trust!

 

[FJ40Jim]

1. no idea.

2. The correct hot-start procedure is:
-Turn key to cranking position,
- begin pressing gas pedal to floor
- as soon as engine catches, let off key, ease off gas.

FWIW, hot starts are greatly aided by a functional carb cooling fan.

 

[Nate98]

2. The correct hot-start procedure is:
-Turn key to cranking position,
- begin pressing gas pedal to floor
- as soon as engine catches, let off key, ease off gas.

FWIW, hot starts are greatly aided by a functional carb cooling fan.

Thanks, Jim. That's good news. It sounds like my hot-starts are correct in that case. Thanks for your help and for the carb & dizzy rebuilds.