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Tower of murder baby.
Howdy folks,

So, I picked up an 87 BJ70 on friday, it was ridiculously cheap, as the kid had recieved it as a graduation gift a couple weeks before, and didn't like it ...
:bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:


Anyways, the body's good ( rear quarters need doing but that's it) and frame is good but the engine may or may not be. ( main reason it was cheap, but I have other 3b's around I can chuck in so I'm not really worried.)


Toyota put a new head on it a year or so ago, and apparently, a few months ago, when taking it to a mechanic to get an exhaust leak fixed, he noticed the blow by tube being a bit smokey, and told the owner that he had bigger problems...

So, hearing this, and seeing that the oil pressure guage is reading LOW...makes me wonder.

blow by tube doesn't look to be any smokier or leakier than my old 40's 3b, but I don't want to drive this thing till I'm comfortable it has oil pressure.

long story short, put some glow plugs in it today ( old ones were all shot, which is why the kid couldn't start it, and it smoked like an SOB when it did) it had 14v glow plugs in it, and I had 4 of those around so I put them in , just to get it running. starts fine now, with no smoke

So, first question, what is the correct voltage of plug for an 87 24v truck? I put those 14's in thinking they probably weren't correct, but figgered it'd be ok for a few starts .

Second is the oil pressure, when the truck is not running, and the key is turned to on, should the oil pressure warning light be on?

next thing is to put a mechanical guage on it and see what it reads. the stock guage only comes off the bottom L when its revved up a bit, but if it's anything like the guages in the old 40's, I don't really trust it.

I'm thinking of borrowing the sender off my 40 to see if that changes the guages reading, but still, I'd rather see a mech guage with a number....

open to other ideas if anyone has something I should check. I cleaned up the connections on the pressure sender, but it didn't change anything

all in all, I'm pretty stoked about this thing, I get the occasional pang of guilt when I think of the kid selling off the gift for too little, but , I can live with that.... :D

thanks
ryan
 
The 87 's have 14v plugs (superglow system)so your good to go.
My oil press is always low by the dash unit like that . The 87 should have a oil press. cut off for the motor which will shut down the edic and stop the motor . The blowby is most likely no biggie as they all do a little

:cheers: have fun with it :cool:
 
#11: thou shalt not crow!

first off, YOU SUCK :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

ya , the 14's sound right for the super glow 24v.

uh.... if the engine is off, there will be no oil pressure. light on good. with the engine running, light on bad. edic shuts it down below 5psi or something stupid like that. i can't remember :doh: .

as for the oil pressure, the edic should look after anything too low, and you know what stock gauges are like.

when was the last time it got oil? may read a little better after some fresh 15/40, mine always does.

just "t" off the sender and put a cheap cambodian tire mech. one on there. should give you a good idea of what's what.

sorry not to make it up on sat. night, had an afternoon nap till 10pm. man... i get sleepy work'n on my junk.

good score on the 70 (i still want the pitman arm :flipoff2: )

this thread is worthless without pics.

crusty
 
Good score mate ,well done. Sounds like another poor deprived kid, life is a bitch when you get presents like that .Go mechanical gauge for sure. Oil light should come on when the key is turned on then you know the bulb is not blown at least. Should go out on the engine starting if you have sufficient oil pressure.
 
that POS toyota gauge tells you nothing, get a mechincal one, a little blow by no big deal, if she has low pressure put some lucas in her and run it till it dies, keep an eye on coolent and oil pressure.

cheers
 
heh.. why thanks kirk..... :grinpimp:


the reason I mentioned the oil light, was that it in fact does not come on when the ignition is turned on ....like most idiot lights do... may signify some sorta electrical gremlin in the circuit, or just a bulb

( but I sure as hell aint going to take the dash apart just to fix that silly light)

Oil definately isn't fresh, the little sticker on the windshield says it's a couple thousand KM's beyond its scheduled visit to toyota :flipoff2:

So, yeah, fresh oil, I'm definately going to put in a little mech guage. see what's what.

Yeah, totally not worried by the blowby, I only mention it because it's between that and zero functioning glow plugs that the knobs got rid of it.

may be some musical 3b's happening in the garage soon....

My first little mess around project on this thing ( when I didn't feel like messing with possible oil pressure) is to change the stock tire carrier around, for some reason, they set it up so the tire is shifted way towards the middle, so the skinny 33 on there doesn't let the door open....pretty easy to drill out the spot welds and redrill to move it outboard a couple inches....


I'll get some pics tonight, whether or not I can figger out how the hell to post them is another matter.....
 
crushers said:
this idea works well with 33s but needs masauging for 35s...

... and is a total waste of time on 38's.

Peter (wasted a lot of time) Straub
 
maybe if the light is not on the edic safety switch may be removed from the cicuit ? just a thought , if it is new to you do not count on the systems to be intact and working!

Daryl
 
on the spare tire thing, I did try flipping it upside down, but the tire hits the bumper, so it's a no go.


however, on the oil pressure thing, I just hooked up an el cheapo crappy tire oil pressure guage ( which by the way, came with an adaptor from 1/8-28 BPT to 1/8 NPT pretty damn cool for a 10 dollar guage!!)

and the oil pressure was.......drum roll.....60 PSI at idle.(with the old oil)


So, seems to be, that some one told them the engine had too much blowby, the glow plugs were toast, and the oil pressure sender ( or something with the electric one) was faulty, so they got rid of the truck in mortal terror of a 10,000 dollar rebuild at the toyota dealer

near as I can tell, the engine is fine.

unreal. blows my mind that someone would do that without getting another opinion.

on to the next project, now I know the engines ok, I'll change the oil ( wasn't going to waste 8 L of rotella on a hooped engine :grinpimp:


anyways, I'm having a rather good evening. I'll try and get a pic together later tonight....

cheers,
ryan
 
Sounds great. The little men with the big hammers that live inside the engine will give you warning when it wants to retire.LOL cheers
 
On my 88, I put a billet aluminum spacer on the spare carrier in order to place the tire back further away from the door. It allows the tire to clear the bumper. I'm using 17" Toyota '03 Sequoia/Tundra rims and have mounted 265x75xR17 tires (just over 33" OD)--no problems. It's the same exact spacer I use on the four wheels in order to use these rims. Bought em at Marlin Crawler.
 
ok, got a few pics, not very good tho. s***ty camera, and it was kinda dark, so the only angle that shows is one side...

here's a link.


http://spaces.msn.com/members/scamp...c01_blogpart=myspace&_c02_owner=1&_c=blogpart

mebbe that'll work...in amongst the boat pics on the right theres a few of the 70. still dark and s***ty.

heh, yeah, hopefully the little men stay quiet for a while, I"m just relieved not to have to be doing TWO engine swaps in the next couple weeks...



in case anyones interested that cheap ass guage I bought was a equus #6044, I mention it because I recall in the days of the diesel list it was really hard to find anything with the proper threads, and this came with a nice little brass adapter.

cheers,
ryan
 
seapotato said:
So, seems to be, that some one told them the engine had too much blowby, the glow plugs were toast, and the oil pressure sender ( or something with the electric one) was faulty, so they got rid of the truck in mortal terror of a 10,000 dollar rebuild at the toyota dealer

When I bought my 86 BJ70, the previous owner was warning me that the hideous black smoke eminating from the tail pipe was evidence of the injection pump in need of an overhaul to the tune of $2,500. So, I got the truck for a song, turned the fuel back by 2 turns, and it's been running fine* for over 4 years. In fact, it has over 425 compression, and some have said it pulls harder than their freshly rebuilt engines.

Peter Straub

* 'Fine' means only 2 engine fires, an intermittent coolant leak, various and sundry components mysteriously falling off from neglect and abuse, yet still good enough for my wife to use as her daily driver.
 
heh sounds fine to me :D

looks like I get to wait a few more days before I drive it, decided to do the body work on the rear quarters before I drive it, (rather than get everything all wet and messy again.)
bought myself a flanging/hole punch tool a while back for body work, so we'll see how it goes.


pricing on the aftermarket panels is pretty silly, I don't care how many times you hit a bit of tin with a hammer, it still isn't worth 300 bucks.

Plus, with everyone saying they fit like crap I'm sure I can do just as well...


so far no surprizes when I opened it up, wheel wells are in good shape so it's pretty much just an outer skin.

cheers,
r
 
seapotato said:
heh sounds fine to me :D


Plus, with everyone saying they fit like crap I'm sure I can do just as well...


cheers,
r

I bought the 60 series ones. In hindshight I would try to make my own. But with out certain tools it would be hard to make your own.

The lines on the panel I bought were not great. they were weak and not sharp enough. But they are rust free and much quicker than attempting to make my own.

so thats what it came down to for me. Time and effort. Although expensive, try pricing a q-panel.

Actually I thought Gand S cruiser parts had a few kicking around. Whole take offs. Might be worth adapting it to your truck. Call Sheldon.
 
yeah, kinda comes down to me being a cheapass.... :)

a weekend of snipping , tacking and patching with a beer nearby and tunes playing is a lot easier for me to justify than pricey panels

I saw the panels on g&s website, if this thing was worse they'd be a damn good solution...

I think the 70series panels are a lot easier than the 60 ones, so I'm pretty sure I can make something that looks good. with the flanging tool it's really easy to add metal.

I'll lose the inner flange on the wheel well, but as I see it that's pretty much just a muck trap that starts all the rust problems in the first place.


cheers,
r
 

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