- Thread starter
- #101
Well that was easy, I think the PB helped....Time to order some new dielectric grease and a set of wires.
New 1fz-fe owner (94) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Spruce
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- Thread starter
- #102
I am once again asking for your help. I got a can of "exact match" duplicolor knowing that there may be some color variation but not caring a ton as long as it was close because the spots I'm touching up are relatively small. Well, it's GREEN rather than the original color. I searched for 6M1 color code, which I believe is the correct one for my truck but this stuff is laughably off. Going to sand this back down and reprime (which is okay because I didn't blend it well and there's a ridge anyway) My question for you guys is - Is there a place where I can get a decent can of aerosol touch up? I have some spraying equipment too, but since what I've got to paint is probably less than 2sqft total, I'd rather just go with the simplicity of a rattle can.
Automotivetuchup.com
I have used it and it’s very close plus the have the clear coat
I have had very good results with this stuff
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #106
Thanks boys. Turns out that the NAPA 3 miles from here does the same. I'll give em a call today and get a can made up. Shoulda just spent the extra $7 and done that before and saved myself repreppeing. Glad I know about it now
For best results use the clear coat and use 2" masking tape with the side towards where your painting rolled up like a wall. This well let you feather the paint and not get a heavy paint line. 
- Thread starter
- #108
No kidding? I've watched some tutorials and stuff in the past and always had to wetsand the ridge down no matter how careful I was. Absolutely will try this.with the side towards where your painting rolled up like a wall.
I've got a few cans of 2k clear that I got from FB market for a CJ-7 I finished a few weeks ago, but after hardener, wetsanding, and buffing it had as much shine as I wanted so I opted not to clear it.
Ha ha I use the clear and skip all that wetsanding & buffing stuff with really good results.
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- #110
Twas my first time ever painting an entire vehicle and there was so much orange peel that Tropicana threatened to sue.
I'm no expert for sure, more of a good from far but far from good. but that's all I'm looking for with my rock crawler
- Thread starter
- #112
No wet sanding no buffing yet, but thanks for the lead on NAPA....this is way closer
- Thread starter
- #113
Working on the A/C with the truck up to operating temperature:
-When the A/C button is pushed I notice an increase in rpm of roughly 200 so i'm thinking the clutch is engaged
-The heat is extremely warm, but I can't tell if the A/C is engaging when it's turned on or it's just the fan blowing making the air feel cooler (I don't have an a/c thermometer)
-I hooked a crappy A/C pro pressure gauge up to the schrader valve and it's showing that I have pressure out of that side so I'm guessing there's refrigerant in the system.
-I pulled the water control cable off the mixing valve and set it fully closed thinking that maybe the warm coolant was cancelling out the A/C - not the issue
-Checked the sight glass - Nothing It looks completely dry from what I can see with the truck running full A/C no A/C and off.
Either I'm blind, the refrigerant is so clear that I can't see it running through the sight glass, or it's not cycling. I read the the FSM and most of it is diagnosing the extraction and reclamation process. I don't have a set of manifold gauges yet, but I wanted to see what you guys thought about the complete lack of any fluid in the sight glass. I can take a picture of it with the AC on full if you think it'll help.
-When the A/C button is pushed I notice an increase in rpm of roughly 200 so i'm thinking the clutch is engaged
-The heat is extremely warm, but I can't tell if the A/C is engaging when it's turned on or it's just the fan blowing making the air feel cooler (I don't have an a/c thermometer)
-I hooked a crappy A/C pro pressure gauge up to the schrader valve and it's showing that I have pressure out of that side so I'm guessing there's refrigerant in the system.
-I pulled the water control cable off the mixing valve and set it fully closed thinking that maybe the warm coolant was cancelling out the A/C - not the issue
-Checked the sight glass - Nothing It looks completely dry from what I can see with the truck running full A/C no A/C and off.
Either I'm blind, the refrigerant is so clear that I can't see it running through the sight glass, or it's not cycling. I read the the FSM and most of it is diagnosing the extraction and reclamation process. I don't have a set of manifold gauges yet, but I wanted to see what you guys thought about the complete lack of any fluid in the sight glass. I can take a picture of it with the AC on full if you think it'll help.
- Thread starter
- #114
Thanks for the heads up, never would have found that store otherwise. Ordered a few wheel bearings and a knuckle rebuild kit today....my drivers side axle seal is leaking pretty good and the diff was so low before I didn't notice until I swapped the fluid. Truck has 203,000 miles on it and I don't hear a loud clicking on the CV's when it's up in the air......should I just put new ones on? If not, is there an easy way to repack them?
You can swap them from side to side
Repacking the ( CV ) birfield is easy just need gloves, it getting them clean is the hard part.
Most people put them in a 5 gallon bucket with diesel fuel in it and let them soak
- Thread starter
- #117
You can swap them from side to side
Figured it was relatively easy. I've never taken one apart or put it back together, and the youtube I watched showed a guy putting them in a stack of 5 tires and smashing it down. I don't have 5 wayward tires around.....what do you guy(s) do to get them loose? Also, I'm afraid my power washer will spray grease everywhere so my plan is to sneak them into the "you spray here" car wash after dousing them in degreaser and just blasting them there. I don't know how I'll be able to avoid the grease spatter cleaning out the actual axel, so I'll have to just live with that, but for $3.00 in quarters Im okay relocating the pieces I can actually move. I'm telling you guys, I keep harping on my wife to move to a spot that I can have a 40/40 pole barn and a lift so I don't grease the house up but it's a tough sell.
This is a easy way but a peace of schedule 40 PVC longer then the axle well work, Pick them up together and slam them on the block of would.
JMHO you don't want water in the birfield once you have them separated, soak them in a bucket of diesel. you just need enough to cover the birfield maybe a gallon or so.
Also have the new lock rings on hand in case they break
- Thread starter
- #119
Ha, I knew very little of that. I also didn't know how to get the snap ring to seat when/if I took the birf off, but it looks like you just kinda push/hit until it seats in the groove. It's funny that a video that was shot on a vhs handicam 20 years ago is like "well these old trucks are stout" . That design is incredible,....they really did design these vehicles to just drive until gas ran out or until it was totalled. Do you have a video of a "clicking" birfield? I think mine are pretty smooth, and I think I'm gonna regrease them but I want to make sure that I'm not just lipsticking a pig that I'll need to take apart again in 2000 miles. I'm going to move this to my DD once I get the A/C and the front end square, so I can sell my 4runner and have a decent chunk of change to spend on it considering the vehicle itself was virtually free.
I think you’d know if they were clicking. If they’re not, I’m sure they’re fine and could just use a good servicing. However, you won’t really know until you get in there. If you have the money to spare, it’s not like it hurts to replace them and know you’re 100%, but my guess is it’s not necessary. For now I would just check the grease level like you said, and top off as necessary before you do the rebuild.
