New 1fz-fe owner (94) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Spruce
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Success. I doused the linkage in pb blaster and rocked it drive to reverse. When it finally came loose I was in neutral and I was pulling hard enough to throw it into drive. Almost sent it through my garage. I managed to get the center and front lockers engaged, but the rears just blinked. I only messed with it for a few minutes in my driveway, and I'm sure I can get them to pop on driving around a parking lot. Got the brakes on the way, but it was suggested that it probably needs knuckle rebuilds and possible wheel bearings which I think is a pretty safe bet, so I may put off the brakes until I can get those parts too.....Any input on brands/kits/or good places to order? Got a huge puff of blue smoke at one point too, so that's probably up for investigation while all my axel and brake parts come in.
I like and use Cruiser outfitters (Kurt @cruiseroutfit) you can get a complete axle rebuild kit from them.
Quality parts, excellent staff and service and super fast shipping.
If some of the others vendor on this site ran there business like Kurt does we wouldn't see the complaints that we do!! Just Sayin
Quality parts, excellent staff and service and super fast shipping.
If some of the others vendor on this site ran there business like Kurt does we wouldn't see the complaints that we do!! Just Sayin
FMC80
SILVER Star
When activating your lockers make sure you’re on a dirt or gravel otherwise you’re putting entirely too much strain on your driveline.
Make S turns back and forth and try to coax the rear locker to engage.
Make S turns back and forth and try to coax the rear locker to engage.
This is a subject great debate, while it most certainly puts a strain on your drive line and if you can avoided it I would.
But wheeling in places like Moab or Sand Hollow where the rock is like sand paper offering better traction then concrete or asphalt we use the locker with out issue.
You do here the tires chirping but everything has held up even with 39s
Very easy to check the rear locker in the garage.
Jack up one rear wheel and put the axle on a jack stand to be safe.
Turn the key to on and put it in low range making sure the center lock indicator is not flashing.
With the motor off so you can hear, turn the magic dial to rear locker, your should hear a click in the passenger foot well then you should hear the actuator motor wind-up.
At that point the locker is ready to lock, but the collar has to be lined up.
So at this point if the indicator is still flashing slowly turn the tire that is off the ground tell the locker engages and the tire stop turn.
If you can't get it to lock this way then there most likely a issue with the actuator.
Note, the teeth or gears on the collar of the rear locker are much bigger then on the front locker and there's fewer of them making the alignment of the rear collar a bit more fussy.
- Thread starter
- #66
Excellent Idea. I didn't have much room to play with in the driveway, so I just sacked it because it was dinner time anyway. I know I heard both of the passenger wheel well clicking noises yesterday...I got that much from reading around the forum so made a mental note. I ran out of gear oil doing the tcase, but I'll put the truck up tonight if I have time to grab some and do the diffs after work. Thanks for all the anecdotal stuff fellas, I love youtube and fsm's but the "this is how I did it" sometimes works best for me.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Good point, but why are you using lockers at Moab rookie?
Come wheel with me and I well show youGood point, but why are you using lockers at Moab rookie?
Well the jumper you described is bypassing the NSS neutral safety switch. If the NSS is properly adjusted then you can take it out of park when you have the key on and your foot on the brake.
Diff oil is different to tcase oil.
Sorry if you already know this. Just reads like you may have used the same oil
Takin from the FSM
I run the same gear oil in the Tcsse and the Diff with out issue.
I run the same gear oil in the Tcsse and the Diff with out issue.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Me too, during my baselining journey, I learned through Mud that is what many recommend so I did it that way.
There both calling for a GL5
75-90 TC
80-90 Diff
We’re really Splitting hairs to say they’re not the same.
Cheers
75-90 TC
80-90 Diff
We’re really Splitting hairs to say they’re not the same.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #74
Thanks y'all. Found a gallon of 75/90 synthetic
Good. I ordered 2 gallons of 75w90 synthetic and that's what's going in them. If my truck starts on fire from that rather than some electrical "improvement" made by the PO I'll just chalk it up to bad karma in a past life. Got the rear brakes apart last night...don't see any leaking from any of the seals so I think I'll leave well enough alone there. Passenger side caliper bleeder was so stuck on I ended up stripping it and then snapping it, luckily I had a spare caliper for that eventuality so I installed that. Parking brake hardware looked in decent shape and functions so that's staying too. I'll be able to finish up the rears and bleed the truck by tomorrow or saturday. That should give me enough of a pedal to actually go register it and start driving to see if the engine is well and truly okay. Still need to order the knuckle rebuild kit, but it looks like there's 3/4 pad life left on the fronts and the wheel bearings seem quiet enough....it's probably not a job that needs to get done before I put a few miles on it.
- Thread starter
- #75
Missed this because I was (as I usually am) distracted by a conversation about lube viscosity. I did some digging on here and it looks like some folks have had issues with the water seal going bad and some of the wires becoming frayed. I'll get under there today and see what I can see. If the fix is as easy as contact cleaner or some soldering and heat shrink I'd cry with delight. Anytime I see something like a random wire jumped from the fuse box I just assume It'll take months of sherlocking around the truck to figure out what exactly was happening....I still haven't traced the wire but I'll get to it.
Sometimes trying to UNDO what a PO did is mind-boggling.
- Thread starter
- #77
Someone yell at me if we're not supposed to use these threads in a continuous fashion, every forum is different. Got the rears done, but my cheapo pneumatic bleeder didn't pull enough fluid so I'll need my wife to play pedalmaster.
Side question: What weight of oil do you fellas go with in the midwest? I read this FAQ in entirety (Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-recommendations-and-discussion-thread-for-faq.79305/) and it seems like 0w40 Mobil 1 full synth is the way to go. I've got like 40 quarts of 10w30 floating around my property but I'm already mildly concerned about the engine health, so I'd like to just use what the consensus best is.
Side question: What weight of oil do you fellas go with in the midwest? I read this FAQ in entirety (Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-recommendations-and-discussion-thread-for-faq.79305/) and it seems like 0w40 Mobil 1 full synth is the way to go. I've got like 40 quarts of 10w30 floating around my property but I'm already mildly concerned about the engine health, so I'd like to just use what the consensus best is.
What does your oil cap say on it?
I use QS 5W30 Dino oil. I DD 15K-20K miles per year.
I use Goodyear Duratrac tires in 285/75-16
I use Toyota red coolant (not the generic green)
I always fill up with 89 octane E-10 unless 87 octane no-ethanol is available.
I drive with 35 PSI in my tires. Sometimes 45 PSI.
I have an OME 2.5" lift with heavy springs front and rear.
I enjoy walks on the beach, holding hands, and stunning sunsets, just not with you.
I also enjoy a good cigar, a nice whiskey, and relaxing in front of a fire (that could be with you, just not specifically......)
This way we can get all those questions out of the way early.
Bleeding 80 brakes can be tough. A couple of ways to help this. Mainly due to air in the ABS module.
1) Bleed as you normally do, take the rig to an open space, get it to speed, slam brakes to engage ABS. Rinse and repeat three times. Then go do a manual bleed again per FSM. You might also need to bleed you load sensing proportional valve.
2) In stead of taking the rig to a wide open space, get the rig slightly off the ground (lift or floor jacks). Start the rig, engage drive, spin the wheels and hit the brakes to engage ABS. Rinse repeat several times. Then Manual bleed.
I might get flamed for option 2, but don’t mind. It works.
1) Bleed as you normally do, take the rig to an open space, get it to speed, slam brakes to engage ABS. Rinse and repeat three times. Then go do a manual bleed again per FSM. You might also need to bleed you load sensing proportional valve.
2) In stead of taking the rig to a wide open space, get the rig slightly off the ground (lift or floor jacks). Start the rig, engage drive, spin the wheels and hit the brakes to engage ABS. Rinse repeat several times. Then Manual bleed.
I might get flamed for option 2, but don’t mind. It works.
It's your thread, post away
I would shy away from the synthetic oil, these motor leak enough as it is !!
I would use that 10-30 you have.
I been running 20-50 because I think a thicker oil work better in a motor with 280k on it.
I would shy away from the synthetic oil, these motor leak enough as it is !!
I would use that 10-30 you have.
I been running 20-50 because I think a thicker oil work better in a motor with 280k on it.
