Neutral safety switch?

[DFXR]

Anyone else had a neutral safety switch (AKA Neutral start switch) go bad? I couldn't find much in a search.

My 2000 won't crank at all in Park, but will crank and fire normally in Neutral.

I've got about 40K miles on a reman Toyota starter. When the original went out I got the telltale click. With this there's no click or
anything.

 

[Julian Stead]

Does the P light on the instrument cluster light up.

 

[DFXR]

Yes, it does. I had the P light go out last year, and that set off my VSC/ATRAC lights (no CEL though). I pulled the instrument cluster and replaced the bulb, and it fixed the warning lights issue.

 

[skhochay]

I be cu

Anyone else had a neutral safety switch (AKA Neutral start switch) go bad? I couldn't find much in a search.

My 2000 won't crank at all in Park, but will crank and fire normally in Neutral.

I've got about 40K miles on a reman Toyota starter. When the original went out I got the telltale click. With this there's no click or
anything.

this is interesting behavior, can you verify if you can start on "P" when you press the brake pedal?

 

[DFXR]

I be cu

this is interesting behavior, can you verify if you can start on "P" when you press the brake pedal?

Could not start in P with the brake pedal depressed. This happened once or twice over the last 3 years, and then just snowballed since yesterday AM. Could not start in any position except N. Battery good, grounds good, alternator good.

The reman starter was the one thing that had me thinking "starter." I even fished a long breaker bar behind the V and poked the starter as best I could, thinking I could rattle the contacts. The absence of a "click" was weird, though.

SO, I took it to a shop this afternoon and he confirmed that it's the neutral safety switch (84540-30270, Switch Assy, Neutral Start). $275 part plus an hour of labor.

Maybe this will help somebody. If you're in the middle of BFE and you think your starter just died, throw it in neutral and try again.

 

[leej]

DFXR, did you get this resolved (did you replace the neutral safety switch)?

I'm having the same problem: occasionally, it wont start in P (turn key and lights come on, but starter will not engage, no clicking, nothing). Then I put it in neutral and it starts right up. This happened two or three times in 3 years, but in the last two weeks it has gotten progressively worse.

I have been concerned it was the starter/contacts going bad. But when I put it in neutral, it has started every time which is leading me to believe that it is the neutral safety switch.

I'm wondering if my neutral safety switch is bad, or just needs slight adjusting?

Did you replace it yourself, how hard is it to remove the neutral safety switch?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Lee
2000 LC

 

[DFXR]

DFXR, did you get this resolved (did you replace the neutral safety switch)?

I'm having the same problem: occasionally, it wont start in P (turn key and lights come on, but starter will not engage, no clicking, nothing). Then I put it in neutral and it starts right up. This happened two or three times in 3 years, but in the last two weeks it has gotten progressively worse.

I have been concerned it was the starter/contacts going bad. But when I put it in neutral, it has started every time which is leading me to believe that it is the neutral safety switch.

I'm wondering if my neutral safety switch is bad, or just needs slight adjusting?

Did you replace it yourself, how hard is it to remove the neutral safety switch?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Lee
2000 LC

Lee-

Yes, replaced that switch and 100 percent solved. Your symptoms sound exactly like mine, especially the increasing frequency before completely giving up. If you're having no issues in N, I would not worry about your starter. Also, when my starter went bad, I always got a click or two when it wouldn't work. With the neutral safety switch, as you've experienced, there's nothing.

I had a shop do it. I had a look once they put it on the lift. It's on the passenger side of the transmission housing. You'll have to remove the belly pan in order to even see it.

One of the trans cooler lines needs to be moved (but not unhooked or drained) in order to access it the switch. If you have access to a lift it would not be too bad.

I looked at the old one and there was no apparent damage or corrosion. Just bad luck I guess. I have heard of people cleaning them on the 80 series but I didn't try. It could be worth a try considering the cost (around $275). I don't know that it adjustable - but cleaning with solvent could be an option.

Luckily you can keep starting it in neutral while you decide what to do!

Good luck-
DF

 

[leej]

DFXR, thanks so much for your reply. I think I will got the route of replacing my neutral safety switch. I actually found the part in china for about $50, who knows about the quality, but I'm going to order it and give it a try...

I'll post on how it turns out (may be 6 weeks before I get the part, but starting in N works fine...).

Thanks again

Lee

 

[outdoorsman]

You might want to double check to make sure it didn’t get out of adjustment.
It has to be almost aligned perfect before it will work. It is worth a shot.
This is what it looks like..

 

[leej]

Thanks for all the replies.

Again, my issue was occasionally I would turn the key and the starter would not engage. There was no click, nothing.

I do believe my issue is the neutral safety switch and not the starter, as this problem has reoccurred intermittently over the last several weeks, and EVERY time I was able to put it in neutral, and it started right up. However, the last 2 weeks, it has started perfectly in Park with no issues.

The neutral safety switch might have simply been out of adjustment as suggested above. Regardless, I ordered a new switch off of Aliexpress from China for $45. I realize the risk of ordering parts from China, but thought I would give it a try (cheaper than the $250 prices for genuine that I had been seeing, although Rock Auto had one with TOYOTA raised letters for $146).

Regardless, the switch from China finally arrived and surprisingly, it looks like a genuine Toyota switch (see below)? I don't think it is counterfeit, but it could either be re-manufactured or just a reject. Notice the damage or defects around the plastic shroud that goes around the connector. The plastic is kind of chewed up a little bit? The nut and washer also seem to have some crud on them and a few scratches (it actually looks better than the pictures)... This leaves me to believe that the part I received might be used (maybe remanufactured). Regardless, at $45, I'll give it a try.

I will install this afternoon and see how it goes. Just wanted to share the pictures.

UPDATE****: it has been 3 weeks since the neutral safety switch was replaced, and I have had NO starting issues. I can only presume that this switch was going bad, regardless it is sorted for now...

Lee

 

[Qtonic]

My 2000 won't crank at all in Park, but will crank and fire normally in Neutral.

I have the same issue. Any thoughts @outdoorsman suggestion to adjust it? I have an FSM but couldn't find the process or even the location.

Still searching, but thought I'd ask. Thanks

 

[leej]

@Qtonic, I'm not sure about the adjustment other than moving it slightly in the oval hole shown in outdoosman's picture. Also, you will notice that there are 2 small raised lines in the metal near the oval adjustment hole, I can't remember if there was a corresponding line where the switch mounted or not, but maybe? Hopefully @outdoorsman will have some better adjustment advice.

If you are sure it is the neutral safety switch, my advice would be to simply replace the switch (I would suspect the contacts are worn). I found mine online for about $50 ebay/china (but other parts stores are showing $150).

Good luck.

Lee

 

[nissanh]

FYI.
You can open the switch and clean the contact points. I did it to a 97 4runner. Inside the switch you'll find copper contact points, just clean all those. Simple!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Not these, if you'll notice the case is sealed by stamped pins. I guess you could cut those out and replace with nut/bolt.

 

[fitzroy]

@DFXR @leej I'm looking at purchasing a cruiser with this exact issue. Have your neutral safety switches remained problem-free since you swapped them out?

 

[leej]

@fitzroy I have had NO problems since I replaced my neutral safety switch!

If this was on a cruiser I was purchasing, I would want to be fairly sure that it was the neutral safety switch, or be prepared that it might be the starter... But maybe you have already sorted that (or use this issue for negotiating).

For this part, I would buy a genuine Toyota replacement (or at least try to buy a genuine). As mentioned in my post, I took a risk and sourced mine from China, and while it looks genuine, it might be a counterfeit or re-manufactured (pictures are above), but it has been holding up perfectly.

Good luck!

Lee

 

[DFXR]

@DFXR @leej I'm looking at purchasing a cruiser with this exact issue. Have your neutral safety switches remained problem-free since you swapped them out?

Sorry for the delayed reply - zero issues since replacing the neutral safety switch. I save all my issues for the FJ60!

Good advice from leej above. I’d make sure it’s the NSS - try starting in Neutral instead of Park when the issue is apparent. And go OEM since it’s still available.

 

[VSPro9]

Sorry for the delayed reply - zero issues since replacing the neutral safety switch. I save all my issues for the FJ60!

Good advice from leej above. I’d make sure it’s the NSS - try starting in Neutral instead of Park when the issue is apparent. And go OEM since it’s still available.

My 2006 GX470 just started doing this, im guessing while we have different platforms this is probably a similar issue. thanks for posting an update, im going to try this!

 

[VSPro9]

My 2006 GX470 just started doing this, im guessing while we have different platforms this is probably a similar issue. thanks for posting an update, im going to try this!

update, it is the safety switch.

 

[a31gun]

Installed a 1" body. Truck died when shifted into D or R. Did not die with T case in N. I disconnected shifter rod from Neutral Safety Switch/Gear Position Sensor. With wheels off the ground, I manually shifted selector into drive and all 4 wheels spun as they should.
So I'm buying the switch if adjustments do not fix. If you had no way to get all 4 tires off the ground you could disconnect front and drivelines at the t case.