Need some help with a 97 LC

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Your talking about throwing money down the toilet. But your also talking about an 80 series land cruiser. I've owned one for 10 years and over 100,000 miles. I've also owned GM, Jeep, Ford, Honda, Buick, Olds, and other Toyotas. This isn't a Chevy K5 and I'm not just saying that because I'm biased. It's the ONLY vehicle I've owned for 10 years. A lot of these guys have owned them longer and owned multiples. The LC's are legendary and for a reason, but parts aren't cheap, the work can be a litlte more technical in some case, and in other cases easier than other makes/models. They are forgiving but require some specific maintenance to be forgiving. If you skip on this stuff they'll puke all over you. At 400k, you don't know what's happened and have to be prepared to do all the stuff that gets neglected or mistreated. Using the wrong coolant can eat your HG, for example. Water crossings will get water in the axle or the seal from the birfs could be neglected and you wouldn't just have bad grease/fluid, you'll have worn parts and expensive repairs. Doing the repairs will get you something you'll love and wonder how you ever drove anything else, and you'll resurrect the thing when it dies rather than drive something else. It's an addiction.

Read the FAQ, especially "Thinking of buying".

When I bought mine I:
Baselined all the fluids using exactly the recommended types on this forum...full synthetic, amsoil, Toyota red coolant, etc. Maybe $200 - $300. I did this 3X during my ownership, probably should have been 5X.
PHH - Challenging the first time for an OK mechanic, but pocket change for $$. Probably every 140k mile job.
Birfields were changed in first 10,000 miles: $400 each side + $1,200 to have a knowledgeable mechanic do it because I knew I'd screw it up. Do it again every 160,000 miles or so.
Upgaded brakes to 100 Series rotors and pads: I don't remember the cost, a couple hundred $$? They lasted me 40,000 miles plus.
Something with the emissions where I took of the intake manifold and cleaned everything, trying to get rid of P0401 code: just time. Never fixed it, but the CEL light burned out, so it resolved itself.

That's really it. BUT, most of it isn't college student money, unless you're more fortunate than I was. After that it was just maintenance and mods. BUT, they last a long time, as seen by the 400k mile rig you're looking at. In addition to what I did there are other common issues that you may or may not have to deal with, but you should be expecting and budget for. HG around every 200k, O2 sensors ($$), catalytic converters ($$$), lots of things to keep it nice but without them it will still run, etc. It's all in the FAQ and the CORRECT info is in there. This is all from my faulty memory and generalization. The experts and Pros have posted in the FAQ's. Take advantage of their knowledge and write ups. It's time well spent.
 
Your talking about throwing money down the toilet. But your also talking about an 80 series land cruiser. I've owned one for 10 years and over 100,000 miles. I've also owned GM, Jeep, Ford, Honda, Buick, Olds, and other Toyotas. This isn't a Chevy K5 and I'm not just saying that because I'm biased. It's the ONLY vehicle I've owned for 10 years. A lot of these guys have owned them longer and owned multiples. The LC's are legendary and for a reason, but parts aren't cheap, the work can be a litlte more technical in some case, and in other cases easier than other makes/models. They are forgiving but require some specific maintenance to be forgiving. If you skip on this stuff they'll puke all over you. At 400k, you don't know what's happened and have to be prepared to do all the stuff that gets neglected or mistreated. Using the wrong coolant can eat your HG, for example. Water crossings will get water in the axle or the seal from the birfs could be neglected and you wouldn't just have bad grease/fluid, you'll have worn parts and expensive repairs. Doing the repairs will get you something you'll love and wonder how you ever drove anything else, and you'll resurrect the thing when it dies rather than drive something else. It's an addiction.

Read the FAQ, especially "Thinking of buying".

When I bought mine I:
Baselined all the fluids using exactly the recommended types on this forum...full synthetic, amsoil, Toyota red coolant, etc. Maybe $200 - $300. I did this 3X during my ownership, probably should have been 5X.
PHH - Challenging the first time for an OK mechanic, but pocket change for $$. Probably every 140k mile job.
Birfields were changed in first 10,000 miles: $400 each side + $1,200 to have a knowledgeable mechanic do it because I knew I'd screw it up. Do it again every 160,000 miles or so.
Upgaded brakes to 100 Series rotors and pads: I don't remember the cost, a couple hundred $$? They lasted me 40,000 miles plus.
Something with the emissions where I took of the intake manifold and cleaned everything, trying to get rid of P0401 code: just time. Never fixed it, but the CEL light burned out, so it resolved itself.

That's really it. BUT, most of it isn't college student money, unless you're more fortunate than I was. After that it was just maintenance and mods. BUT, they last a long time, as seen by the 400k mile rig you're looking at. In addition to what I did there are other common issues that you may or may not have to deal with, but you should be expecting and budget for. HG around every 200k, O2 sensors ($$), catalytic converters ($$$), lots of things to keep it nice but without them it will still run, etc. It's all in the FAQ and the CORRECT info is in there. This is all from my faulty memory and generalization. The experts and Pros have posted in the FAQ's. Take advantage of their knowledge and write ups. It's time well spent.
Right now i do not have a pile of money to throw at a problem that is why the miles have me so concerned. if i can get it cheap enough a transplant may be an option. thanks for the info i am still trying to learn al i can about LCs
 
Even with a transplant you'll need lots of other stuff. The front axle rebuild people talked about isn't cheap.. like @MDarius said the birfields alone are ~$700 and it is rare indeed to find a used rig that doesn't need them. Cooling system. Hub bearings/brakes. Hell just for the transplant $1400 for the adapter to make a GM trans play with the toyota transfer case.. and don't think you can use the GM transfer, for the record.

I won't say these trucks aren't for people on a budget. Once they are sorted they don't require a lot of $$/mile aside from fuel costs.. However if looking at a used one the initial investment in parts (and time) to make them get down to that $$/mile figure makes them a bad option for many people.
 
Even with a transplant you'll need lots of other stuff. The front axle rebuild people talked about isn't cheap.. like @MDarius said the birfields alone are ~$700 and it is rare indeed to find a used rig that doesn't need them. Cooling system. Hub bearings/brakes. Hell just for the transplant $1400 for the adapter to make a GM trans play with the toyota transfer case.. and don't think you can use the GM transfer, for the record.

I won't say these trucks aren't for people on a budget. Once they are sorted they don't require a lot of $$/mile aside from fuel costs.. However if looking at a used one the initial investment in parts (and time) to make them get down to that $$/mile figure makes them a bad option for many people.
when i said transplant i should have been more specific. i was talking about putting a mother 1fz in it. The guy is asking 3400 what would be a good ballpark price to offer. if i get it and its a lemon i can part out most of it guess if i get it cheap enough. I'm weighing buying one this cheap and doing the work myself or dropping more money on the initial investment and getting one with less miles on it.
 
If you have the money to buy the Cruiser in question and then put a replacement motor in it, I recommend you look of another Cruiser with less miles on it. Don't buy something if it is going to own you (time and money).
 
Keep in mind that one with half the miles may need all of the same work just as much. Personally I'd take a no-rust texas or arizona truck with service records, HG replaced by a decent shop, and a knowledgeable owner with 400k over some unknown rig with 200 ANY day of the week. That said, 400k vs 100k is a different story.


And sorry about the transplant.. I read v8 and got distracted. (REALLY want to do this swap) But excluding the $1400 adapter the rest of the arguments stand..

The overall point is it is a complex question and you'd be well served to spend lots of time reading into the work so many people do on these as baseline to know what you are getting into. All of that research will give you a MUCH more informed viewpoint when you go check out trucks for sale.. as well as make you much better prepared to bargain in your favor when presented with things like a radiator that has brown tanks, or a CEL, or exhaust steam/stumbling at cold start.
 
My '95 just bit a concrete wall and I weighed the cost of repair vs. replace. Before I knew the frame was significantly bent I went with replace. Part of that was because my interior was trashed (dog ate it plus kids killed it). With patience you can find a good one for around $8k-$9k with maintenance history under 200k miles. If you don't care about lockers you can get them $6k - $8k. If it were me, I'd pass on the unknown and high miles of this rig and wait. In college it's easier to finance something good and pay monthly for it than dump $3000 cash into a repair to bring an abused rig to the same place. IMHO.
 
Keep in mind that one with half the miles may need all of the same work just as much. Personally I'd take a no-rust texas or arizona truck with service records, HG replaced by a decent shop, and a knowledgeable owner with 400k over some unknown rig with 200 ANY day of the week. That said, 400k vs 100k is a different story.


And sorry about the transplant.. I read v8 and got distracted. (REALLY want to do this swap) But excluding the $1400 adapter the rest of the arguments stand..

The overall point is it is a complex question and you'd be well served to spend lots of time reading into the work so many people do on these as baseline to know what you are getting into. All of that research will give you a MUCH more informed viewpoint when you go check out trucks for sale.. as well as make you much better prepared to bargain in your favor when presented with things like a radiator that has brown tanks, or a CEL, or exhaust steam/stumbling at cold start.
well if you are looking for a 350 TBI out of an 87 k5 i have one that needs a rebuild haha
 
i have done some looking but how much of a difference is there in the 2 engines for the 80 series and later on down the road can i put a 1fz in a 91?
 
big differences. ECU is different, tons of different wiring, battery on other side of engine bay, exhaust routed down different side of the truck.. basically it wouldn't be worth it.

Plus a 91-92 wouldn't have 4 wheel disks, no ABS, doesn't have full-float rear axle, smaller front brakes, no hope of lockers...
 
big differences. ECU is different, tons of different wiring, battery on other side of engine bay, exhaust routed down different side of the truck.. basically it wouldn't be worth it.

Plus a 91-92 wouldn't have 4 wheel disks, no ABS, doesn't have full-float rear axle, smaller front brakes, no hope of lockers...
so basically you are stuck with the less powerful engine?
 
The 91-92? Basically. Unless you want to do a v8 swap or something. That'd probably be easier than swapping in a 1FZ.. and the results would be FAR more worth the effort.

Your post is the cue for a bunch of people to chime in that the 3F doesn't have the head gasket, PHH, and other random problems of a 1FZ.. but overall, I'll deal with all of that stuff for enough power to adequately move the truck around.
 
other than the head gasket issue and PHH what kind of motor issues are common around 200-300k miles? i tired loading the FAQ but i keep getting an error messages.
thanks again for all the input everyone!
 
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