Need some advice on tires! (1 Viewer)

[afgman786]

Spacers will help with that. I'm on 1.25" spacer and 35s and don't rub where you do. But I do get into the bolt for kdss on driver side sway bar near full lock.

Bora .75" spacer would be more ideal for as that will be closer to the correct offset for 34s

 

[atsparkinson]

Any tips on measuring for a spacer?

Spacers will help with that. I'm on 1.25" spacer and 35s and don't rub where you do. But I do get into the bolt for kdss on driver side sway bar near full lock.

Bora .75" spacer would be more ideal for as that will be closer to the correct offset for 34s

seems like .75’s are hard to get. Do you think 1.25 would work?

 

[terdrocket]

Any tips on measuring for a spacer?

seems like .75’s are hard to get. Do you think 1.25 would work?

Plenty of us run Rock Warriors 1.25 Spidertrax spacers and 285/75/17 size tires.

 

[Jerz]

Might see if an alignment will help. I heard reducing caster helps

Do the alignment. I have zero rub on KDSS and clear the rear wheel well with my Toyo RT's in 285/75/17's.

 

[AnyMal]

I dont like my Ko2's. The only good thing i can say about them is that they last a long time. They dont really perform that well off road as they are an AT. They are much heavier than the Toyo, Yokahama, and other similar AT's which causes your fuel economy to suck extra bad when compared to those tires. In my experience they are louder than the Toyo and ride harsher than them too. THey dont perform as well in the mud as many other AT's either.

I have Duratrac's on my 80 and they are just as quite and ride better than the BFG's do on an 80.

I feel like Ko2 is highly overrated as it’s most peoples first non HT based on sheer popularity. It just looks really good. I can’t lie about that.

 

[atsparkinson]

Do the alignment. I have zero rub on KDSS and clear the rear wheel well with my Toyo RT's in 285/75/17's.

View attachment 2694154

Any chance you have you numbers?

 

[Jerz]

Any chance you have you numbers?

Ha, you are the 2nd person that has asked. I just put new rims/tires on mine and the previous alignment was spot on except the old tires wore unevenly. Lots of members talk about alignment specs but no one posts them. I plan to and will send you the specs once complete. I agree with @terdrocket ; have to run 1.25 spacers with the RW due to the offset of the rims and feel that will solve your issue.

 

[atsparkinson]

Plenty of us run Rock Warriors 1.25 Spidertrax spacers and 285/75/17 size tires.

Do you need to trim the bolts that come with spider trax? I ordered 1.25 from slee

 

[grinchy]

Not for 1.25”
Possible trim depending on wheels for 1” in back (longer lugs)
Both front and back for 0.75”
Of course some wheels have holes where the bolts go and no trimming is required for the spacer

 

[doublehundy]

Since this thread is in play, I'm in a similar position as OP...playing the tire debate and considering KO2s or wildpeaks. 285/70-17 is top choice although @radman is nudging me towards 285/75... he might win out.

Question for mud, the 10ply E rated wildpeaks are 5lbs lighter than then 6ply C rated wildpeaks - doesn't quite track (59 vs 64lbs). The KO2s are 51 lbs for the C rated tire. 13lbs sounds like a hefty margin for unsprung weight (acceleration, etc...)

Will I regret the E rated 10ply from a ride comfort perspective?

 

[TeCKis300]

Since this thread is in play, I'm in a similar position as OP...playing the tire debate and considering KO2s or wildpeaks. 285/70-17 is top choice although @radman is nudging me towards 285/75... he might win out.

Question for mud, the 10ply E rated wildpeaks are 5lbs lighter than then 6ply C rated wildpeaks - doesn't quite track (59 vs 64lbs). The KO2s are 51 lbs for the C rated tire. 13lbs sounds like a hefty margin for unsprung weight (acceleration, etc...)

Will I regret the E rated 10ply from a ride comfort perspective?

I'm a proponent of big tires and like @radman , would also encourage the 285/75R17. Question though, are you okay with some loss of gearing and brake torque? The 5.7 handles things well enough though. And brakes can be addressed by uprated pads.

Weight is not the caveat that most people think it is in tires. It's more a function of leverage lost.

It's an easy choice in my mind between KO2s and Wildpeaks. The newer kid on the block simply outclasses the other in overall performance. The other has a legacy of greatness as it established THE benchmark in its time. Multiple times with the original BFG KO. Toyo AT3s should be strongly considered as well.

I would recommend the Wildpeak LT-C rated tires. Ply rating is notional these days and just means the tire carcass can handle additional pressure. It's obvious the c-rated has more rubber and material by weight so should be just as effective in durability and performance, with the bonus of a better ride. Weight in tires can be an advantage because it can mean you're getting more tire. The Wildpeaks are generally larger, with deepest tread lugs in its completive set

That said, the 285/70R17 Falken LT-E seems to be incrementally larger at 33" (vs others in this size at 32.8"?), and maybe a good compromise to the 285/75R17?

 

[lx200inAR]

Since this thread is in play, I'm in a similar position as OP...playing the tire debate and considering KO2s or wildpeaks. 285/70-17 is top choice although @radman is nudging me towards 285/75... he might win out.

Question for mud, the 10ply E rated wildpeaks are 5lbs lighter than then 6ply C rated wildpeaks - doesn't quite track (59 vs 64lbs). The KO2s are 51 lbs for the C rated tire. 13lbs sounds like a hefty margin for unsprung weight (acceleration, etc...)

Will I regret the E rated 10ply from a ride comfort perspective?

I don't really have any thoughts on the weight difference. Enough people here said you won't really notice the weight as much as the added rolling resistance and circumference.

I can tell you I went from 20" stock LX wheels/tires to 17" RWs with LT285/75R17 (E) and I feel like they ride softer than the P rated 20" P285/50R20. I don't have any comparisons for C vs E. The ATs are a bit louder than my Michelins were. Like somewhat harder to hold a conversation in the truck amount louder at anything over 70mph.

Edit:

And as @TeCKis300 says. I can definitely feel the change in gearing/braking. Certainly hasn't made it undriveable, but it's a tangible chagne. It has also affected my cruise control, the torque converter seems to unlock a lot more with the taller gearing on any inclines. I don't have any experience with a 32-33" as a comparison, so not sure how much of that you save by not going up to the 34".

 

[atsparkinson]

Since this thread is in play, I'm in a similar position as OP...playing the tire debate and considering KO2s or wildpeaks. 285/70-17 is top choice although @radman is nudging me towards 285/75... he might win out.

Question for mud, the 10ply E rated wildpeaks are 5lbs lighter than then 6ply C rated wildpeaks - doesn't quite track (59 vs 64lbs). The KO2s are 51 lbs for the C rated tire. 13lbs sounds like a hefty margin for unsprung weight (acceleration, etc...)

Will I regret the E rated 10ply from a ride comfort perspective?

While I can’t speak to your particular dilemma .. I can tell you the Nitto Ridge grapplers are awesome on the road I t

Since this thread is in play, I'm in a similar position as OP...playing the tire debate and considering KO2s or wildpeaks. 285/70-17 is top choice although @radman is nudging me towards 285/75... he might win out.

Question for mud, the 10ply E rated wildpeaks are 5lbs lighter than then 6ply C rated wildpeaks - doesn't quite track (59 vs 64lbs). The KO2s are 51 lbs for the C rated tire. 13lbs sounds like a hefty margin for unsprung weight (acceleration, etc...)

Will I regret the E rated 10ply from a ride comfort perspective?

for what it’s worth unless your lifted and the tires look tiny, I would stick with the 285/70. While the 285/75 look better in my situation I am having to drop another 300 for 2 sets of spacers … which seem to be out of stock everywhere. I managed to get some from slee though.

 

[atsparkinson]

You may not need to if your not running RWs though!

 

[doublehundy]

You may not need to if your not running RWs though!

Thanks. Looking at a 25mm offset wheel, so don't believe I'll need spacers. Having options are tough sometimes!

Anyone want to start a wheel company with me (to heck with these guys and their 0mm to -20mm offset wheels!)? Need more 20-30mm for the cruiser guys.... Would love some SCS F5s.... but I think that conversation's been had and turned down.

 

[AnyMal]

As stated earlier, load range ratings are more of a ply equivalent these days.
In all likely scenarios, sidewall construction is going to make a much more meaningful real world durability difference unless your concern actually is loaded weight.

I even reached out to toyo to comment on the AT3 and their construction methods as I wanted to see if they would give me an equivalent ply rating for the P rated AT3 tire i run but they did not respond to anything other than "it is 2 ply" which some of their own marketing materials seems to contradict. They would not give me any contacts with engineering or anything other than their generic email.

If you wanted to do a proper weight analysis, i would start with size and tread depth. Unfortunately sizes arent always accurate, but the community here is great for that kind of thing. Im going to agree that bigger is better but in my case, i really wanted to reduce rotational mass.

Again, its always up to your lifestyle and needs.


BTW im on a +25 ET wheel and 285/70/17 fits like a glove w/ zero modifications other than front flap/dam on my '17 LX.

 

[lx200inAR]

Supposedly at least one Toyo engineer recommends the Load E tire on the ATIII.

Toyo OpenCountry AT3 Experience?

I would go either P or LT/C. There is absolutely 0 need to go E rated. Your wet traction, mpg, and ride will suffer for no reason. The P will have best snow and wet traction because the P rated has more silica content in the tread. The LTs have less silica because that means less durable/easier...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[doublehundy]

Cheers to you guys that replied above here. @lx200inAR, off to educate myself more on why c-rated tires can be heavier than e-rated tires.

Toyo OpenCountry AT3 Experience?

I have a set of E rated Toyo OC AT3 in 285/65/18 and put 5000 miles on them. The only other all terrain tires I’ve experienced besides them are the BFG KO2 on a Ford Raptor and Falken Wildpeak AT3W on a Chevy Silverado Z71. The Toyos had a bit more road than the tires that came from the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[atsparkinson]

Plenty of us run Rock Warriors 1.25 Spidertrax spacers and 285/75/17 size tires.

Did you need to trim plastic with the 1.25? Getting mine on today

 

[Tex68w]

Thanks. Looking at a 25mm offset wheel, so don't believe I'll need spacers. Having options are tough sometimes!

Anyone want to start a wheel company with me (to heck with these guys and their 0mm to -20mm offset wheels!)? Need more 20-30mm for the cruiser guys.... Would love some SCS F5s.... but I think that conversation's been had and turned down.

I was disappointed with my SCS wheels. From lack luster CS to center caps warping (they wouldn't cover/replace) and coatings fading in less than a year, to me they weren't worth the hype. They make a nice looking wheel but they didn't hold up as well as the Methods and Racelines that I've used since and in the past.