Need Some 2L-TE Help!

[skyworks137]

Just bought a LJ78 in a private sale with the 2L-TE. My wife and I both love the vehicle but it has some engine issues which I'm trying to sort out.

Right from the start it idled OK when warm but misfires when the throttle is cracked open. The misfire disappeared under load but it made driving around town a pain and also when easing off the gas at higher speeds.

I tried changing the fuel filter and checking for air in the fuel by patching some transparent hose into the return but no bubbles were visible.

I did notice a small oil leak which seems to be coming from the next to #2 cylinder. I could see the ocassional bubble of headgasket gas escaping from this area. I've just cleaned the engine and will look for fresh oil.

I have now almost completely eliminated the misfire by adjusting the throttle position sensor. Loosening the adjustment screws and turning it one way made it worse, turning the other way improved it to the point where it is barely noticable. The engine is now smooth and responsive when warm but it's not running good at start up.

From cold it starts immediately but misfires. It will idle OK after about 30 seconds.

I've read a lot about cracked heads with this engine so I'm getting nervous! So far no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil - or at least it's not detectable. Over a 1,000 KM running on Amsoil 5w-30 and consumption isn't noticable. I've put in a new thermostat and temperatures seem fine.

I can't find anyone in the Okanagan really intersted in working on this engine so I will do it myself. I already have a new timing belt and waterpump ready to go but I need to find a manual. Does anyone know where I can get one? Or at least enough information to get by. I would like to know how to test the various sensors which control the fuel injection to see if my problem is related to the electronics. The Throttle position sensor would be a good place to start I guess.

I'm planning to get the heaters and injectors checked and a compression test done. One local shop, Okanagan Diesel Injection, said they can go this far for me.

One thing that is puzzling is that the oil pressure, which according to the panel guage, is very high. It runs close to the top mark when driving and at the 3/4 mark at idle.

I would really appreciate any comments or suggestions. This is my third Toyota but first Land Cruiser. It's the perfect vehicle for my wife and I and our 2 dogs to get out and explore the trails. I've got a gentle right foot and I intend to drive with a close eye on engine temps.

David

 

[crushers]

okay, you wanted advice and here is mine...sell the truck now and go invest in a real engine.
okay, that is not what you wanted to hear so here we go:
install a pyro as soon as possible
install an after market oil gauge, water gauge.
open up the boost
install a larger free flowing exhaust
get rid of the AC system
ventalate the hood to allow the trapped heat under the hood to escape
i have 2 LT manuals but nothing that covers the elec of the 2LTE ... sorry
install a larger 3 X12" cored rad
onstall the water pump and belts
install the egr block off plates
install a manual over ride glow plug ativateing switch for "sirst start of the day" starts (also called a wilson switch)
do not drive long hills
do not drive steep hills
do not drive into head winds
do not tow with the unit
do not try to keep up with the faster traffic
if the temp hits above 5/8ths on the temp gauge pull over IMEDIATELY, do not finish the hill, do not wait till it is safe to do so...yourhead depends on it.
the replacement 3L head upgrade CAN and probably WILL crack as well

that shoudl keep you informed and broke for the next few months.

in all seriousness, sell the unit and get a unit with a good engine. my rule of thumb now is Toyota dielse engines smaller than 3.4 are CRAP.

it really is that simple...

 

[Martin White]

Keeping in mind that I probably am lucky if I know 1% of what Wayne does, one thing I am pretty good at is internet and other research. I've done a lot of reading about this engine, and pretty much everywhere in the world, almost everyone backs up exactly what Wayne is saying. I believe his advice is very solid and should be very carefully considered. If you complete the mods necessary to make this truck as reliable as it possibly can be, you will probably spend more than the difference it would take you to do what he said: sell the truck and buy something more reliable.

The other option is you could just drive it till it breaks, and reassess at that time. There are a (VERY) few who claim it's a reliable engine and has given them good service. For what my opinion is worth, however, one breakdown in the middle of nowhere with your family is just not worth it. I would follow Wayne's advice. He has no axe to grind and in my experience everything he says has been very accurate. I hope that helps a bit. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

[NZLHJ60]

Being a diesel mech here in new zealand i see a lot of 2L engines as hilux's are a very common truck. What wayne says is true if you live in hot temps, pull a trailer, want to drive it like a car or all the above.
The cheapest thing you can do is to get the radiator flushed and rodded by a radiator shop, as they tend to block very quickly. Treated kindly the 2lLs are good wee engines, however i would not give up my 12HT for one. If you need info with the rebuild just ask here or pm me.
Rich.

 

[prado t]

skyworks I noticed you are running 5w30 it would be a good idea to go to a thicker oil like a diesel specified 15w40. crushers is right about what he said, if you want to keep it be carefull!
aaron

 

[brownbear]

Consider taking it down to Vancouver for someone to look at it.

It may be a bad head or it may not be. No one hear knows for sure.

But for sure I see tonnes of threads from new guys with troubles. Time to start suing the importers who bring in sub standard rigs for sale. Form a group and split the costs of legal fees. Buyer beware only goes so far IMOP and it's time shut these guys down. The 2lte has been known for awhile to be a POS.


Best of luck. If the bills get too high put in a gasser 22re. Reliable and known.

 

[2rivers]

one thing I can say abuot the 2lte is that its a very torquey little motor and pulls the prado around quite well when its running properly, I'd have to look at some specs on the 22re but wondering if they are relativley close for Hp and torque. It would be a bigger job to swap to gas (vs head) but like BB says you have a motor known for reliablilty. As sson as you mentioned bubbles out of the head gasket I said "well there's another". Could be wrong but best to start saving for a head. Lots of info out there...

 

[raypg800]

2l-te throttle plate

Has anyone removed the throttle plate?Diesel shouldn't need one.I just bought a 1991 prado sx5 and love the truck.But 1050 deg to just pull the truck is crazy.If you block the egr we shouldn't need a throttle plate. Any ideas?

 

[Dougal]

Is it possible to build a 1KZ-TE (3 litre) with the mechanical injection from a 2.8?

Or.
Make the adaptors to fit an Isuzu 4JB1T (2.8 turbo) into those rigs and make your fortune.

 

[prado t]

Has anyone removed the throttle plate?Diesel shouldn't need one.I just bought a 1991 prado sx5 and love the truck.But 1050 deg to just pull the truck is crazy.If you block the egr we shouldn't need a throttle plate. Any ideas?

having a throttle plate is ridiculus on those things. the reason why so many people are having problems with those things is 1 the head casting ( the block is almost indestructable) 2 they are so complcated vacum lines here and there throttle plates egrs and electronics, the japanese should have just kept it simple . I am going to fawk with it this weekend will keep you updated
ps without the throttle plate and the positioner I would find a mechanical pump and find a way to restore it to the electronic power level
aaron

 

[cicak]

skyworks173

listen to wayne from my knowledge of the 2L and 2LT and 2LTE range I would not put in in any vehicle and I live in the tropics with a BJ72 highly customised with a 13B-T (and 24Volts) conversion the 2LT is an engine I considered and discarded because of its reputation and its too damn small to be any good.

Do exactly as he ses or get rid of the engine (or optionally the whole vehicle) else it will empty your pocket and possibly endanger your life(s) when it lets you down when you least want it to.

Put a 13B-T or larger in the vehicle for torque and saftey and reliability.

my 2cents worth.

 

[dieseltoyz]

Hehe...love the answers so far. First things first, have you run a diagnostics on the computer to see if it's throwing a code? At face value, it sounds as though your TPS is bad. This is what gives the IP it's signal to advance or retard. The head problems while common are REAL obvious when they go. It's not a subtle type of thing. You'll be driving it along and BOOM, your coolant reservoir will blow the top off. Then, it wont hold idle and will overheat in a matter of minutes. The 2LT-E are known to be problematic but they can be tuned to give great economy and decent performance numbers. If you need to learn how to check the codes, go here: http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/24table.htm You're welcome to email me directly for other questions. -Todd

 

[skyworks137]

Thanks for the advice. The engine is now running good after I figured out there was a problem with the throttle position sensor. Fortunately I discovered the sensor was identical to the one on my 1990 V6 Camry and once I swapped it over the problem went away. I now have new injector nozzles and plenty of power. I have also changed the timing belt and water pump.

 

[prado t]

Good job, now all you have to do is run 15-40 and keep it from overheating, I know my 2lte was set up to rev. By keeping the revs up by downshifting kept it from heating up. Good Luck