those axle seals don't look too bad, although one side is definitely cleaner than the other. I'd leave them be for now.
Lacruiser - I respectfully beg to differ. They are dry as they can be! They need to be showing signs of grease all around the felt IMHO.
BWR - Immediately, before I drove it after repairing the brakes,if you don't tear it down to the birf's during the repair, I'd remove the square headed pipe plug at the top of the outer birf and pump in two tubes of grease via a grease gun to make sure the inner birf has grease.
Second - If you have damaged the rotors, I can tell you from driving an 80 for 15 years, turning rotors is like angioplasty to the heart - open heart surgery is the answer not stints. Turning rotors on a design that is already nearly under engineered for the weight of the 80 will only cause very premature warping, and you will waste the new pads you install and cook the brake fluid and calipers in the process, potentially. If you MUST turn them due to time/money constraints, turning them on the vehicle is your least difficult, lowest effort approach. If you have to remove the rotors to repair the birfs, do yourself a favor and buy a set of rotors. I am not trying to sell you anything, but I will help out by providing a 4000 miles used set off my last 80 that are true and ready for new pads. You make a fair offer for them, they're yours. They are OEM and I was saving them for myself, but it sounds like you need them worse than I do. I know how this might sound to eveyone (opportucistic) so I will say that I will let them go for next to nothing to help. You pay the shipping.
Third - DON'T PAY A STEALERSHIP. Get the video, rely on us, you can call me if it comes to that, we'll help you get through this for less and get a better result. There is a thread on MUD that I used the very first time and I had never done it nor did I have the video. You can do this. IF the clicking is the birf, DON'T buy new ones - take them out, dissassemble them, switch the outers to the oppossite side and drive them for another 300,000 miles.
THis is solid advice, all from the wonderful group here at MUD.
Now for my opinion - I don't like after market brake pads and rotors. I would never deter from factory rotors and factory pads. Do not mix match factory rotors and other supplier pads. They are a system engineered for thermal transfer rates predesigned into the rotor/pad/backing plate/caliper/brake fluid and when one is out of spec, the entire system suffers and performs poorly which is a major safety hazard for a 6000# heffer. Think about Car-X - lifetime warranty on brake pads. Guess what brings the customer back? Warped rotors and cooked calipers. Guess who gets paid to replace those? Car-X. See anything wrong with wear items designed to sacrafice themselves (i.e.brake pads) being altered to never wear out? If you go to ceramic, make sure you purchase jointly designed exclusive kits. If the sourcing group offers rotors and options on pads - run.
Also - watch out on the Brembo products. They have leased their name to operations in Mexico, not to be confused with the same found on AMG's, BMW's etc. Drilled and slotted rotors are notorious for cracking. Good ol heavy duty, high mass rotors are what you need as you are not stopping a 2600# car from 200 mph. You are slowing a hog from 70 mph - huge difference in design requirements. My $.02.
