Need help with a temp wiring harness for roof lights

[Lugboot]

I started a thread over in Camping but wanted to cross post here because there's more traffic. And you guys are smart, too.

LINK

I need advice/help with making a temporary wire harness to run some amber roof lights on the back corners of an extended body Ford van.

If you can help me out, I'd appreciate it!

Thanks!

Brett

 

[Lugboot]

Ah, heck, here's the original post:

This is kind of last minute, and I hope this is the right section to ask this.

We are getting to run support for a friend of ours that is competing solo in Race Across the West (RAW), a part of Race Across America (RAAM). She's riding 1036 miles solo from Oceanside, CA to Taos, NM. We're following her in a support vehicle, a full-size, extended body Ford van. We have to have two amber flashing lights on the rear corners of the van roof.

She ordered these lights.

They plug into cigarette lighters.

What would I have to do to make a harness to run from the battery to the rear of the van, with a kill switch integrated into it that can be flipped from the driver's or passenger's seat? It would also have to be fused. It would terminate in two 12v cigarette lighter type power outlets.

Could someone give me advice on the wire gauge and fuse size and switch for me?

We're flying into Denver on Wednesday to meet her and get the van. We're then driving to Cali Thursday and Friday. Van inspection on Saturday and the race starts Sunday. We need the lighting system to work for the van inspection.

Yeah, and I don't think I'll be flying with any wiring tools. I figure I can buy everything I need to do this out there and assemble the harness while we're driving from Denver to Oceanside, CA.

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks in advance!

Brett

 

[Straydog]

At that length I'd run 12 gauge with a 20-25 amp inline fuse. 10 gauge if you really want to overkill. Just put a single pole switch in the pos. line where you can reach it. Most of the switches will handle the draw, or look for a heavyduty push pull type if your worried All avaliable at most auto parts stores across the US.

 

[kb3gun]

Rotating incandescent type bulb style flashers (50W) only draw 3-4 Amps @ 12.8v.
Strobe style (15-22W) only draw 1.2-1.5 Amps.
If you were running just 1, I'd use 18GA. With 2 lights, 14GA will be more than big enough. That's what we supply in our military harnesses anyway.

The single pole switch that Sean mentioned above would work well.

Now, assuming that they are both the cigarette plug powered lights, you could tap power from the tow light harness (assuming you have one) direct to the lights, and just run the ground up front and use it for the switch. Less live wires up front that way.

 

[Lugboot]

Thanks for the advice, guys.

With that info, I think I'm ready to deal with it when I get to Denver. It'll all depend on the layout of the van.

Brett

 

[Straydog]

I thought they had a heaiver draw than that. I don't do much with warning lights. Lots of work lights, though.

 

[kb3gun]

They have similar draw to a tail light. The old ones (15-20 years ago) had a much higher draw due to the rotator motor. Most of those were on hard wired system (ambulance and such). All the commercial ones now-a-days are very low draw.