Need help to determine the source & cause of the knocking noise (3 Viewers)

[AFei]

Sorry for no update during the past week. My allergy got much worse which pretty much "disabled" my ability of thinking.

So I did a oil change which seems pretty normal. No metal piece was seen.

Sounds like a Tundra. Check engine VIN #.

Not quite sure if that's the actual engine VIN #, but I saw a label saying "2UZ 4688" on the engine. Did some googling but couldn't find a good way to tell any useful info. Is there other location I should look for?

Yes. Just unplug the connector. Which one doesn't matter.

Tried this on 1/3/5/7 (driver side) by unplug the coil connector while engine is stopped and then re-start the engine. Noise didn't go away. May try the same for 2/4/6/8 if figure out how to work around the air box.

I wouldn't tell you to start looking at certain areas as it will throw off your results. Just start putting the diy stethoscope on different areas of the motor and see where the noise you're hearing is coming from.

I found a 20" long tub last night, and tried to listen to some areas from the top, and couldn't find it. Tried from the bottom but it got dark. Thinking to buy an actual stethoscope or maybe DIY one with the metal tub I have.

Thanks for all the info...

 

[AFei]

 

[2001LC]

Engine VIN # is on center side of PS head.

Also same # on frame rail PS frt wheel well. DS peak through windshield to lower corner of dash and on "B" pillar DS door info plate. All should match. You also find a sticker on each door and fender.

 

[AFei]

Engine VIN # is on center side of PS head.

Thanks for the good picture showing the exact location of the engine VIN. Just checked and it does match the VIN sticker found under windshield and doors.
So it's the original engine.

 

[2001LC]

Next I'd do a oil pressure test and compression test. This may yield clues. But in the end, you may just have to live with it.

You could use and oil flush and treatment like BG EPR & MOA (I like), than possible add some zMAX (never used)

Make sure your engine temp is normal also. I like to see 187 F idling and ~185 to ~195 driving.

This knock is very common in the USA made engines in Tundra and Sequoia. The 1 million mile Toyota, was a USA made tundra.

 

[AFei]

Next I'd do a oil pressure test and compression test. This may yield clues.

I will do some research later on this test. Quick question is if it's DIY-able for person with average+ mechanic skills?

But in the end, you may just have to live with it.
This knock is very common in the USA made engines in Tundra and Sequoia. The 1 million mile Toyota, was a USA made tundra.

So this means it could be too expensive (like $$$$) to justify the repair?
To me, my expect ion is to have this LX for maybe another 100K miles. As long as it won't leave me alone in the wild remote area, I guess I'm ok.

Make sure your engine temp is normal also. I like to see 187 F idling and ~185 to ~195 driving.

How could I verify it? Hook up the TechStream while driving to read the coolant temperature?

Thanks again!

 

[AlpineAccess]

I will do some research later on this test. Quick question is if it's DIY-able for person with average+ mechanic skills?


So this means it could be too expensive (like $$$$) to justify the repair?
To me, my expect ion is to have this LX for maybe another 100K miles. As long as it won't leave me alone in the wild remote area, I guess I'm ok.


How could I verify it? Hook up the TechStream while driving to read the coolant temperature?

Thanks again!

What @2001LC is saying about living with it is that in some cases Toyota ticks and taps while not present in every motor are within tolerances and are normal operating conditions for these motors. They will likely not be detrimental to the longevity of the motor - they can and often do still outlast the rest of the vehicle with light piston slap.

 

[2001LC]

I will do some research later on this test. Quick question is if it's DIY-able for person with average+ mechanic skills?


So this means it could be too expensive (like $$$$) to justify the repair?
To me, my expect ion is to have this LX for maybe another 100K miles. As long as it won't leave me alone in the wild remote area, I guess I'm ok.


How could I verify it? Hook up the TechStream while driving to read the coolant temperature?

Thanks again!

1) They take special tools and procedure. But not difficult. You're just checking for issue that could signal trouble. Like if oil pressure low. Reason could be poor oil & filter change history. If a crank bearing bad, you'll get low oil pressure. Bad oil pump will do the same, but without a knock generally.
2) Engine rebuild or replacement, so yes to $$ to do as PM. It could last for 1 million miles with knock. I've seen a few knock. They had over 200K miles, and still run just fine. They call it the Toyota tick.
3) Yes hook to tech stream and read temp. I use a smart phone and blue tooth hook up. You can also shoot and IR gun, on back side of thermostat housing. Back side away from fan. Fan blowing over the spot you shoot temp from, will read false cool. I find the back side reads ~2F lower than actual coolant temp.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

They had over 200K miles, and still run just fine. They call it the Toyota tick.

This is true! The Toyota Tick indicates that you’ve finally passed the break-in/warm-up period

 

[dhuffste]

@AFei What ended up being the cause?? Having same sound with mine.

 

[AFei]

@AFei What ended up being the cause?? Having same sound with mine.

Couldn't find anything without tearing down. So I just live with it....