Need help! ABS light on after towing camper. Stuck in campground (4 Viewers)

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Please post back once you have the root cause.
 
Expanding the discussion. Your alternator has gone bad. Not sure though. Good luck, sorry there is no Ah-Ha moment. I need to sign off.
I did speak to a mobile mechanic who suggested the alternator. He might be able to help tomorrow. Appreciate the suggestions! I will check back in once we figure it out
 
If alternator, the battery would "likely" be dead. Which then you'd not be able to start or run engine for long. Be sure to check wires to a from it. Look for rodent chew marks on wiring. Also check wires at battery fusible link. The fusible link (Rectangular box hang off positive battery pos) has 4 or 5 wire housing block plugs into bottom of it. Follow wires and check all. You may also want to unplug those at bottom of fusible link, and check for oxidation (acid) in plugs. Check wire under rear near rear frame crossmember on both sides.
 
If alternator, the battery would "likely" be dead. Which then you'd not be able to start or run engine for long. Be sure to check wires to a from it. Look for rodent chew marks on wiring. Also check wires at battery fusible link. The fusible link (Rectangular box hang off positive battery pos) has 4 or 5 wire housing block plugs into bottom of it. Follow wires and check all. You may also want to unplug those at bottom of fusible link, and check for oxidation (acid) in plugs. Check wire under rear near rear frame crossmember on both sides.
Any idea where to source a fusible link if that is the problem?
 
Autozone or Oreilly's has lengths of fusible link wire in the electrical section. Or any well stocked auto parts store. This would be the get-you-home fix.
With a fusible link, you need to find the root cause if the wire is indeed blown.
 
Autozone or Oreilly's has lengths of fusible link wire in the electrical section. Or any well stocked auto parts store. This would be the get-you-home fix.
With a fusible link, you need to find the root cause if the wire is indeed blown.
I’ve taken it apart and do not see an issue. A while back I had to solder 1 of the pieces back together but was 10k miles ago and it is holding

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Searching google. Wow, there all kinds of 100 series posts about no dash lights, tail lights, etc. No specific root cause called out. Trailer wiring, Tail light fuse, gauge fuse, charge fuse. Bad battery, bad alternator, loose battery connections, under dash harness connections, auto dimmer function, CEL codes. re-seating connectors helps scrape away unseen corrosion. Was anything done to your rig before your camping trip. New electrics added? One person commented on the 120v power port shorting.
 
Any idea where to source a fusible link if that is the problem?
Toyota or Lexus Dealership, will be fastest. 82620-60030 BLOCK ASSY, FUSIBLE LINK 03-

You'll likely find some of the wire housing blocks, with acid corrosion also. If so, I'd carefully unpin their wire lead connector, from the wire hosung block and clean up. I like having new wire housing blocks on hand, when I can. Since these may break.
Tip: All wire housing block have the last (Sufix) of part number on them. Just add (prefix) 90980-****** to number you get off them.
90980-10995
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Which if this is a break, you'll need a new or used one.
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Make very sure, your clean area with a solution of baking soda and water, first. To neutralize the acid. It is the acid, not being kept a bay annually with baking soda. That is the root cause of fusible link issues. If not a break in fusible link. Clean up/out all acid (blue & white). From fusible link and the wire lead connectors, from plug attached in bottom end.

Which may or may not be your issue. but it is a good starting point.


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Searching google. Wow, there all kinds of 100 series posts about no dash lights, tail lights, etc. No specific root cause called out. Trailer wiring, Tail light fuse, gauge fuse, charge fuse. Bad battery, bad alternator, loose battery connections, under dash harness connections, auto dimmer function, CEL codes. re-seating connectors helps scrape away unseen corrosion. Was anything done to your rig before your camping trip. New electrics added? One person commented on the 120v power port shorting.
New battery a couple of months back.
I have a mobile mechanic coming this morning so I will let you know what he finds.

He did stop by briefly last night to read any codes. There was no communication with the ECU so no luck
 
A comment on your fusible link solder repair. Solder repairs are brittle, they do not like vibration. The solder repair may look ok, however an oxdied crack has formed. I suggest if you can...reflow the solder on the fusible link. Or try to jump the two sections temporarily as a root cause check.
 
A comment on your fusible link solder repair. Solder repairs are brittle, they do not like vibration. The solder repair may look ok, however an oxdied crack has formed. I suggest if you can...reflow the solder on the fusible link. Or try to jump the two sections temporarily as a root cause check.
Two alligator clips and a piece of wire to jump it
 
You guys were all over it! Mechanic tested the alternator and it was not working. But before jumping the gun he started testing several other things. Ended up being the fusible link. More specific it was my home soldering job did have a small crack that caused the issues. We were not able to source the OEM part but a temp soldering job by the mechanic will get me home today. Will get the correct replacement installs asap.

But a huge shout out to all who responded with comments and suggestions. I gave the link to this thread to the mechanic and he was impressed by this community. I hope I will be able to help someone in the future with the experience I’ve had with this platform. On my 4th 4.7 between a Tundra, Sequoia, LX470 and now the LC. I’m convinced this is the best motor ever in production.

Thanks again to all!!
 
Fantastic!!!
 

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