Need Advice Lift Install Issue (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 21, 2018
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Location
Charlotte
I'm in the middle of installing a tough dog suspension lift on my 2010 LC. We chose to leave the KDSS closed during install to see if it would remain level afterwards.
We have the front and rear suspension on, but there here is the problem:
The front passenger side linkage will not reach the mount.
The rear passenger side will also not reach the mounting point. Even applying pressure with a hydraulic jack still leaves the rear passenger side 3-4 inches short. We applied pressure until it started to crush the wood block on the drivers side.
Could this be as simple as loosening the kdss valves?
any advice is appreciated.
Passenger Rear (3-4") Short:
IMG_0156.jpg


Passenger Side Front:
IMG_0161.jpg
 
The rear KDSS attachment should be an easy job with a floor jack and a block of wood. I always open the KDSS 3 turns and have never had an issue getting that passenger rear side reconnected. I would start with opening up the KDSS.
 
Could this be as simple as loosening the kdss valves?

Yes.



Any lean afterwards is not caused by KDSS, unless your system is failing for some reason. Based on how little corrosion I see, I'd be surprised if yours was in trouble.
 
something we are worried about too, it looks to us like this hinge point on the drivers side would have to pivot all the way to the opposite direction if we make the passenger side reach it’s mounting point.
0CE0EBE8-65A4-40E5-BD3E-3C0404D21A5F.jpeg
 
Using a wood block on edge like that is janky and dangerous. Good way to injure someone.

Open the KDSS a couple (no more than 3) turns and stop fighting it.

I've done 200 series lifts both with KDSS valves opened and with them closed, and would choose open every time, if possible. It can be done without, but it is a ton more work.
 
I've had kdss on the 200 and GX460. No way could I get the links re-attached with the valves closed on either.
 
I would put the truck back down under its own weight before opening the valves. It'll make sense once you do it.
 
For the front, ratchet strap around the curved part of the sway bar and then around the front of the LCA. If that doesn't do it on its own (it should), then cheater/pry bar to push the sway bar down that last little bit.

Rear should take minimal effort with KDSS valve open.
 
Just wanted to update this thread. Finally talked the mechanic into opening the valves and it did the trick.
 

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