Need advice from some fj40 pro's

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Feb 15, 2009
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Hello,

Looking for some assitance from some fj40 pro's

I have a nice 1971 frame that i am transfering my 1979 to and a few things have me scratching my head....

first off, the fellow i bought the frame from started a 4" lift.... but the shackles in the front are significatly shorter than those in the rear, by abou 2.5" is that normal or can someone explain the rational behind that?

Also by having a longer shackle in the rear it pitched the axle...

my last question is, do you see any reason why the person would have cut out a section of the front cross member and welded that long plate next to it?

i have a solid one from my 1979, i was going to replace it with that unless it was actually suppose to serve a purpose.

thank you so much for any assistance you can lend.

A. rear shackles.jpg

pitch.jpg

front shackles.jpg
rear shackles.jpg
pitch.jpg
front shackles.jpg
 
Welcome.




I have a nice 1971 frame that i am transfering my 1979 to and a few things have me scratching my head....


What is your plan to address the fact that the body mounts/points on the frame and body tubs are significantly different between the 1978 and earlier frames, compared to the 1979-1984 frames/bodies?



first off, the fellow i bought the frame from started a 4" lift.... but the shackles in the front are significatly shorter than those in the rear, by abou 2.5" is that normal or can someone explain the rational behind that?

Previous Owners do a lot of crazy things. Perhaps he liked the look of a Land Cruiser that has a lot of rake.

By the looks of that tube shock mount cross member being bent, I cannot imaging that the PO was the sharpest tool in the shed. :rolleyes:





my last question is, do you see any reason why the person would have cut out a section of the front cross member and welded that long plate next to it?

i have a solid one from my 1979, i was going to replace it with that unless it was actually suppose to serve a purpose.

That plate is for mounting a Saginaw power steering gear.
 
Thank you so much for the reply,

I actually got a full tub & cowling from a 71 sitting in my driveway. I was going to basically build out a 71 but use the 2f motor and disk brakes and anything else that was salvageable..... hopefully the aircon too
 
Will the different size shackles have a significant impact on the ride?

will the vehicle sit uneven?

Thanks,
 
They were probably the former PO's attempt to make a sagging FJ sit level?? As for impacting the ride no not really because with weight on them I would imagine they still sit at an angle but they are pretty long so they may actually sit straight up and down even with a load resulting in a stiffer ride..... no probably still sit at an angle The problem is if they needed to raise the back lets say 2" to make up for the sag they would need 4 inch longer than stock shackles which is probably about what those are. One could make the argument that they could enhance the body roll when cornering and I wouldnt argue with them because those are pretty dang long but you said significant so my answer is no....... My OPINION is get rid of them because of added body roll along with they look terrible and possibly replace the rear springs or if on a budget find an additional leaf to add in there or purchase an add a leaf preferebly the long leaf version. The last statement was all OPINION though!

EDIT - I see you said they are only 2.5 inches longer than stock..... Oh maybe that isnt that bad the picture makes them look very long. Then again the pic makes the driver side rear look longer than the passenger side rear so ????? If they are 2.5 inches longer then that wouldnt be terrible. Still not my preffered but there I go with Opinions agian :o)
 
Will the different size shackles have a significant impact on the ride?

will the vehicle sit uneven?



The ride is likely going to be effected by both the longer shackles and the fact that it looks like someone installed an add-a-leaf to the OEM rear leaf springs, which are likely 35+ years old.

It is difficult to tell if it will sit level without all of the weight of the fully assembled vehicle being on the springs. (Engine, body, etc) But I would bet that the PO installed the longer shackles in the rear to try and compensate for the fact that the truck sat low in the rear.
 
Poser hit it on the head when he pointed out the rear crossmember being bent! It makes me wonder It is bent bad enough how is it not pulling the frame rails in atleast a 1/2"

Oh wait a minute you said PRO's Nevermind disregard anything I said :D
 
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I have a set of decent springs from my 79.

would it be advisable to just swap out the stock shackles and springs as i am not that fussed about getting an extra couple inch lift...

thanks,
 
When you said the former owner started a 4 inch lift what lift were you referring to? The reason I ask was that his start of a 4 inch lift because if it was ...... Well my point is that your rear springs are probably just fine and you could swap your parts or take the extra leaf out and throw the shackles on SAVING your other set of leafs as a spare or an additional 35 year old leaf springs that are a possible perfect donor in case when you get it back together it is sagging a little and you wish to level it you could simply steal a long leaf out of them and add them to your pack (would stiffen it a little though). As far as swapping I think they are the same so sure I would. Not that it would be the end of the world if you didnt but it would put your pinion angle back to where it should be. And look cleaner
 
As mentioned by Poser, the plate is for a power steering box. Your PO butchered the hole in the crossmember for the steering shaft. That area should be reinforced or replace the crossmember and alter it correctly if PS is your desire. There is a some frame flex in that area and it will eventually fatigue. I had to deal w/the same issue when the PO of my 40 butchered the crossmember. It was a pain in the butt, in my case, the damage & fatigue to the frame had already occurred.

I don't know if this means anything or not, but my 1st 4"spring lift from Downey, back in the early 80's,
came w/2 different shackle lengths. The shorter pair went in the front. It sat level. That was a ruff ride & no flex, 3 leaves in each spring pack.
 
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I don't know if this means anything or not, but my 1st 4"spring lift from Downey, back in the early 80's,
came w/2 different shackle lengths. The shorter pair went in the front. It sat level. That was a ruff ride & no flex, 3 leaves in each spring pack.[/quote]

I don't remember us selling the Arm-Pit of all ignorant 3 leafers, but I guess we did (Burbank springs at a 900 lb. spring rate). Ouch, I'm embarrassed about that!!! Perhaps the PO had gotten a good deal on 4" fronts and 2" rears, so deceided to make up the difference with longer rear shackles???
 
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Thank you so much for you responses folks!

I had a perfectly good crossmember from my 79, i was going to gride the rivets off and replace the crosmember.
 
ANY idea why that tube that hangs the shocks was bent?
I would do some measuring to make sure everything is straight and you wont run into problems when installing the tub and everything else.
Also the right frame rail seems been damaged in the front.
I think this frame was involved in some nasty pulling or towing.
Another reason for the longer shackles could be to lower the pinion angle.
If that bent tube was used to support the tow hitch , that would be bad way of doing it.
YOU should post more pics of that frame.
 
ANY idea why that tube that hangs the shocks was bent?
I would do some measuring to make sure everything is straight and you wont run into problems when installing the tub and everything else.

X2.......

Usually (pulls) bends the frame side rails inward..........
 

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