need advice and options on engines

[toy4xfun]

i say stick to what has brought your truck this far, either a 20r 22r, would be your best options, you might just get away with rebuilding the one that is in it. the advantage of a 22re would be the efi, but if you are good with your carb then stick with it.



and 4rnr since i started wheeling with a stick, i will keep the stick shift and clutch, i feel i have more control that way, but that is just me!

 

[thrashattack]

wow?! who would thought i would have created a debate on transmissions. who cares. im ok with a carb. i wanna keep it simple and just alittle more power

 

[toy4xfun]

then rebuild your engine, clean up your valves, and head, put an rv cam in and you might just regain your power with out touching the bottom end, i would do a compression check on it before taking it apart if compression is good i would just refresh the head.

 

[Combat Chuck]

wow?! who would thought i would have created a debate on transmissions. who cares. im ok with a carb. i wanna keep it simple and just alittle more power

Behold I am Digressionator!

I agree with Toy4xFun, rebuild's the easiest, cheapest, and quickest way to go, I love the R series motors, they're great.

If you're really seeking more power, then I really recommend a 20R head on a 22R, you'll get better HP than just going to 22R.

 

[Bogo]

wow?! who would thought i would have created a debate on transmissions. who cares. im ok with a carb. i wanna keep it simple and just alittle more power

then rebuild your engine, clean up your valves, and head, put an rv cam in and you might just regain your power with out touching the bottom end, i would do a compression check on it before taking it apart if compression is good i would just refresh the head.

I second this.

If you do swap engines, get a 22RE with transmission and transfer case from a junkyard and rebuild it if needed. When you are grabbing it, grab the engine control computer and engine wiring harness. You will need new motor mounts, and transmission mount. Drive shafts may also need modification. Yeah, allot needs to be modified to put a new engine in. It's the small details that cause the problems. Getting a donor truck is a way to go to make sure you have all the bits needed.

 

[missouriman]

just saying with a do over....

we have aw some trucks, still toyota with after market parts.

I am getting ready to build a new one.
have a turbo motor, but the more I look at things.

I love rocks, snow runs, the toy has a real lack of power on snow runs.
I can not shift as fast as an auto. close but I have to give it to the auto.

you have to change so many things. drive shafts, axle's to longs.

I am thinking 4 door 4 runner, 60's for axles, 4.3 chevy with auto trans. adaptor to the toy dual cases that we have. good cage.
big brakes. lots of skid plate.

as for mixing up a motor... no. you want to be able to buy off the shelf parts. not keep track of some mixed up miss mash of parts that no one is going to be able to trouble shoot.

just a thought on the do over.

reallity, I have way to much money into these axles. they are aw some with the 30 spline longs. may keep those.

OH,,, God you guys don't know.......

my wife and I are expecting our first kid.. no s***... impossible with her cancer history... all tests have turned out good.. trust me as a nurse we had all the tests done..
going to have a boy in may.. she is 38, I am 48... not what I expected.. sorry for the sudden shift of subject... I should start a new thread.....

that is why all the thoughts into the new rig...... I love our toys.. but now need more room...

 

[4WheelUnderground]

So i have a 1979 toyota 4x4 pickup with the original 20r i like it but it getting tired.
it was a webber and a header. i just threw on a new head gasket but i figure may its time to replace it. So do i stick with a 20r or do i go with 22r. I like the fact that the 20r is solid but a few more horse power would be nice. im running 4.37 gears and 33s . so what does every think?

I think I'll sell you my 3RZ with a stage 1 LC Engineering Cam, Cam adjustment wheel and a set of my proto-type headers for $1300.

The Cam added 9hp at the wheels on 37"s
The Headers added another 5hp and 10-12ft lbs.

 

[liljlandon]

- having no ability to use the engine to provide braking, requiring annual replacement of brake pads and rotors, which being a GM product, were nary impossible to do.
- Finally, I like to be able to just throw my truck in gear, and glide down a hill without needing to brake

I'm sorry, but if im following your sentence correctly (i think nary is used incorrectly imo.) your saying the gm brakes were not there, hard to do, or...?

Regardless, I mean no insult. I'm just confused on your use of 'nary'.

My grandpappy always told me "brake before you down shift... Whats harder to do? Replace brake pads, rebuild the engine, or replace the clutch?"

I would rather change the brake pads... Takes me 9 minutes per side to do a rotor/pad change on my taco, and about 4 hours to tear down the axle to change the rotor on my 'lux. 18 minutes and 4 hours is a hell of alot easier than rebuilding the engine. and i'd just as soon do a clutch on my 'lux as i would the brakes to be honest!

So engine braking is not one that i 'lust' for on a DD that isn't hauling something that the brakes cant handle, or a wheeler that isn't raced...

 

[Combat Chuck]

I just meant that the way GM designed my Olds, you had to tear down much more than just the hubs rotors and calipers to do work, and all the pieces were well hid. I also don't just throw it into a lower gear on the fly; I'll coast for a while, or tap the brakes to get the revs down, but I don't need to sit on the brakes while downhill as was the case in every auto I drove. I downshift at about 2000 revs, any higher that about 2500, and the truck pretty much won't let me.
The handy thing about switching from the Olds over was the fact that its brakes were so weak, I had to start braking nearly two blocks before a red light, so now, instead of stomping on The Mule's brakes, I coast down, downshift, tap the brakes a bit, but it all takes the same distance.

 

[toy4xfun]

man, i have one question. why would you have to rebuild your engine from downshifting?

 

[liljlandon]

man, i have one question. why would you have to rebuild your engine from downshifting?

I havent, but it does increase wear IMO.

My grandpappy was a shade tree mechanic, and he had some stories about the 'old timers' (now hes one!) who made incredibly stupid mistakes... One being going from 4th-2nd with a load down hill in an dump truck... and Big-blocks aren't made to spin ~ 7 grand... so carnage ensued...

 

[toy4xfun]

i see your point, but that is abuse, i use my gears offroading and like chuck does, but i can not see it causing undo wear on the engine, un less you down shift like you were saying.

 

[liljlandon]

I agree- Theres nothing like being able to pop it in first/low and slide down the hill faster than your wheels are turning- But that can be achieved in an auto as well. Its all personal preference when you get right down to it...

 

[Combat Chuck]

fourth to second is a huge step down.

 

[toy4xfun]

I agree- Theres nothing like being able to pop it in first/low and slide down the hill faster than your wheels are turning- But that can be achieved in an auto as well. Its all personal preference when you get right down to it...

if you are skidding down that hill (rather in an auto or stick) you are not in control and that is not good. depending on the grade you might need to use a higher gear, but it is possible to use your engine to do most do the work, you would still need to brake, you just do not need to ride your brakes.


by the way, the easiest way to warp a rotor is riding your brakes down a hill then having to set for a period of time with your brakes applied.