Need a new power source for fuel cut solenoid / Please help me fix a PO electrical hack job!

vtcruiser60

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1985 FJ60 newly rebuilt engine, new vac lines, everything.

I have several interrelated problems (with the truck).

A. The truck has a parasitic electrical bleed somewhere that continues to drain down the battery. If I drive it every day or every other day, I'm fine and don't need to jump it.
B. The prior owner hacked the harness and I do not have the factory wire that powers up (and down) the fuel cut solenoid on the carburetor. As a fix to get the truck running, I powered it directly to the battery. I think this is the source of my power bleed.
C. Now the engine is dieseling after shut off too. The engine has less than 1000 miles, its not dieseling because of carbon build up. Vac lines are new, I really doubt I have a vac leak. Maybe the manifold bolts could be torqued, but wouldn't really cause dieseling. Idle is at 750.

My question: I need to tie into a power source/switch that turns on with the ignition, and off when the key shuts down. While I've been on the Forum for a long ass time, electrical issues are not my strong suit. I appreciate any help you can provide.
 

ToyotaMatt

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1985 FJ60 newly rebuilt engine, new vac lines, everything.

I have several interrelated problems (with the truck).

A. The truck has a parasitic electrical bleed somewhere that continues to drain down the battery. If I drive it every day or every other day, I'm fine and don't need to jump it.
B. The prior owner hacked the harness and I do not have the factory wire that powers up (and down) the fuel cut solenoid on the carburetor. As a fix to get the truck running, I powered it directly to the battery. I think this is the source of my power bleed.
C. Now the engine is dieseling after shut off too. The engine has less than 1000 miles, its not dieseling because of carbon build up. Vac lines are new, I really doubt I have a vac leak. Maybe the manifold bolts could be torqued, but wouldn't really cause dieseling. Idle is at 750.

My question: I need to tie into a power source/switch that turns on with the ignition, and off when the key shuts down. While I've been on the Forum for a long ass time, electrical issues are not my strong suit. I appreciate any help you can provide.

you looking for a black wire with a yellow tracer stripe , its your KEY ON pwr.


to your Solenoid

i assume your are using the correct 2 wire version ?

or did a PO install the ghetto 1 wire solenoid ?



this black wire / w yellow tracer should also have a solid withe wire or a white wire / black tracer along with it for the proper 2 wire set up


look comong out the firewall behind the cylinder head

or

the drivers side fender , near the center


hope this helps


also , DO NOT simply hook up to any old key on PWR wire u think may work ?


look hard for the dedicated proper ones ,


and you absolutely need the 2nd ground wire too


please see link below , it has My 2 wire solenoids , and shows the 2 wire Connector profile u may still have ?

yours will be a Green Connector , mine are a updated OEM natural color


let me know if this helps


matt


here is Reference link :


 

Willard

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Also power drains will come from not only hacked up harnesses but accessories that are not factor to the vehicle. If something was not installed right this could happen.
Sometimes (more rare) it could come from stock electrical parts that may have shorts in them (i.e. alternator, relays etc).
I have found most things that drain batteries are due to not being installed correctly or have a short.

For example I have a similar problem with mine. My aftermarket radio I have found is junk and is causing a drain on my battery after about a week of sitting.
After pulliing the radio last night and bench testing it, the radio will cut in and out and I conculded this to be the cause. I will now for sure in about a week,.
 

OSS

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The ENGINE fuse terminal in the fuse box in the cab is switched by the ignition key. When the key is OFF, the ENGINE fuse terminal has no power (12V+). When the key is ON (indicators light up on dash) the ENGINE fuse terminal gets power (12V+)

If your harness is truly hacked and you can't find the wire in the harness in the engine compartment that switches with the ignition, then you can run a new wire tapped into the back of the ENGINE fuse terminal to the FCS to provide a switched source of power.

Yes - if the Fuel Cut Solenoid is permanently wired directly to the battery it will kill the battery in no time. At least put a switch in line with it until you can wire a proper ignition activated setup.
 
Last edited:

vtcruiser60

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Thanks for these replies. I got out to the barn and was able to search for a new wire. Because there was no factory wire on the firewall, I assumed it was hacked. However, I never thought to look on the drivers side fender. Is what's pictured in my hands the FCS wire? Yes, my FCS has the two wire configuration. @ToyotaMatt @OSS

IMG_7164.jpg
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IMG_7164.jpg
IMG_7165.jpg
 

ToyotaMatt

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Thanks for these replies. I got out to the barn and was able to search for a new wire. Because there was no factory wire on the firewall, I assumed it was hacked. However, I never thought to look on the drivers side fender. Is what's pictured in my hands the FCS wire? Yes, my FCS has the two wire configuration. @ToyotaMatt @OSS

View attachment 2258743View attachment 2258746View attachment 2258743View attachment 2258746

i would say without a shadow of a Doubt Heck YES ! :D


BUT ! ,

however i always proceed with caution on electrical topics like this :

- get a simple test light , insert probe tip in black wire w/ yellow tracer , see if you have Key ON ., then Key Off Power B+ first ............

- then use a Meter or continuity tester and VERIFY you have a solid ground signal NEG.- Ground

on the other greenish looking wire , wire should be white , i think , but age and time have discolored it

if you have both as described above , this Your IN !

plug here in to your fuel cut , connector , then test it too for function ,

- listed for a notable CLICK noise when your ign, key in turned to the ON position then back off repeat sever times to be sure ................


- you want to indeed hear a lound-ish click , ..........

- then turn on your truck start engine , and test drive , turn off your engine and see if you drivability issues are solved ?

hopefully they are !

if u need a new 2 wire Solenoid for some reason , i offer them with the correct profile
Land Cruiser Electrical connector on them


if your works as intended , then thats great too :cool:


good luck

and report back


matt

csm_Company_Navi-Teaser_41268b1d03.jpg



89620-60060jpg.image.500 x400.jpg

 

vtcruiser60

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BUT ! ,

however i always proceed with caution on electrical topics like this : - get a simple test light , insert probe tip in black wire w/ yellow tracer , see if you have Key ON ., then Key Off Power B+ first ............

- then use a Meter or continuity tester and VERIFY you have a solid ground signal NEG.- Ground

on the other greenish looking wire , wire should be white , i think , but age and time have discolored it
I am back and running, no dieseling, and idle at a purring 650. The connector was a bit wonky though, and I suspect that might be the reason that the PO hacked it. The ground wire isn't correct. I tested for power and proper FCS functioning first, but couldn't get a consistent ground. So, I am using the switch power from the plug, and grounded the 2 wire FCS to the carb, as I have before. If that doesn't work (meaning my battery is dead again), I'll probably abandon the fender plug, buy a new FCS from Matt and run a new wire from the engine fuse panel. Fingers crossed I don't have to go that direction.

Thanks for all the help. I'll report back if there are more problems.....small engine fires....etc.
 

Spike Strip

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You may not be getting a proper ground because the ICS ground is controlled by the 'Emission Computer' that is known to fail. There are a few threads on fixing the bad or cold solder points on the circuit board. Can't tell from you pix, but if the truck is desmogged, the computer may have been removed.

There won't be Ground continuity on the Green wire unless 'Key On, Engine Off' on the starter switch.
 

vtcruiser60

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You may not be getting a proper ground because the ICS ground is controlled by the 'Emission Computer' that is known to fail. There are a few threads on fixing the bad or cold solder points on the circuit board. Can't tell from you pix, but if the truck is desmogged, the computer may have been removed.

There won't be Ground continuity on the Green wire unless 'Key On, Engine Off' on the starter switch.
The truck is desmogged. But never dinked with the emissions computer. Its probably a lump of plastic now. Should I be living with the fix I have now, or trying to test the emissions computer.....and fix the FCS ground issue?
 

Spike Strip

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If it's desmogged and the fuel decel switch has been removed, best to just put a spade on the green wire (or black?) out of the ICS and ground it directly to the carb, using one of the Air Horn screws; The older one-wire ICS are grounded directly through the body of the ICS to the carb body.

Also, more than likely, your Emissions Computer (under driver's kick panel) is malfunctioning. They almost all are, at this point, if they haven't been repaired.

If you're now using switched power, and there's still a batt drain, then problem is somewhere else.
 

vtcruiser60

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I grounded the wire to the carb as described above. No sputtering, quick to start, no dieseling, and no battery drain. Its been a pleasant five day run now. Thanks everyone for their input.
 
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