Can I use this connector for a heated seat power source? (1 Viewer)

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I installed a Scheel-Mann driver seat with heaters and I'm looking for a switched power source to use with the provided seat wiring harness. The harness contains a relay that sits under the seat where the harness connects to the seat heaters and only has a red and black wire for power. There is also a connector in the harness for the seat heater switch, which has high, low and off. I dug into the dash to see what power source might be available in my 85' FJ60. I found the unused connector pictured below which sits between the rear window defogger switch and the cigarette lighter. Looking at the FSM diagrams it looks like this might be for rear fog lights used in the Euro models. One of the four terminals in this connector has 12V switched power, but I'm not sure which circuit this is connected to in the fuse panel and thus what the amp limit is. The Scheel-Mann harness contains a 10amp fuse on the red wire so I assume I need no more than 10amps of current. So will this unused connector in the dash work to power this one heated seat and if so can anyone tell me which connector type and terminals I would need to plug in to it?

If this connector is not a good source for powering a heated seat and I want the seat heater on switched power can I add a second relay to this seat wiring harness? This second relay would be wired to constant 12V power from the battery, and triggered by a switched power source to then provide the power to the seat harness. I watched the Cruiser Cult video on tapping in to the stock electric harness the clean way, but the connector in the drivers side kick panel is plugged in to a Koito Relay Cleaner Cont (see pic). I think this is a relay for the headlight washers. Can I tap one of the wires going into this headlight cleaner relay for the switched power source for the heated seat relay, or is there a better option?

FJ60 spare plug in dash.jpg


Headlight washer relay.jpg
 
Second relay is the best bet, that way you can run thicker gauge wire from the battery to the seats through the switch on the higher load side of the relay. I tapped into a dash wire for mine and, while they work... they dont work super well. I think they need a direct line from the battery and thicker wire to get enough voltage to them to really work well.

Redoing my power supply for my seats is on the list of things to do.
 
When you get it all sorted, please post a pic of your new seat. I'm thinking of getting one as well. Where did you purchase it from?
 
When you get it all sorted, please post a pic of your new seat. I'm thinking of getting one as well. Where did you purchase it from?
As someone who owns these SM seats, if you are spending scheel mann money youd be better off getting the Recaro Orthopeds. They are heated and cooled and all of the controls are powered instead of manual. They cost like 300 bucks more per seat vs the SM seats. These are the seats I should have bought. Twisting knobs to adjust stuff on your 2,500 seat is a little infuriating

 
I’d say no. An electric heater is going to draw lots of amps and that little wire looks woefully inadequate.
Remember…. If high current is pushed through a small gauge wire, the wire will heat up. That’s how toasters work.
Add to that the (hot) wire snaking around under carpet etc is an invitation to starting a fire.
I guess that’s one way to heat the seat!
 
When you get it all sorted, please post a pic of your new seat. I'm thinking of getting one as well. Where did you purchase it from?
I purchased the seat from Scheel-Mann USA, email Toby for info and quotes Toby@scheel-mann.com. He was very helpful and quick to reply. I believe they are in Portland, OR. My seat is a Vario F XXL, I'm 6'2" so the taller seat back is nice. They have the sliders and can sell you the mounting bracket to fit the FJ60 or FJ62. The mounting bracket is from Planted Technology and is a solid low profile piece. The SM seat does sit higher than stock seats so it is a little harder to get in and out, but I like the position, adjustments and improved comfort. I'm sure I will love the heaters once I get it wired properly.
 
I’d say no. An electric heater is going to draw lots of amps and that little wire looks woefully inadequate.
Remember…. If high current is pushed through a small gauge wire, the wire will heat up. That’s how toasters work.
Add to that the (hot) wire snaking around under carpet etc is an invitation to starting a fire.
I guess that’s one way to heat the seat!
That is what I figured. Better safe than sorry.

Since I already have a relay and switch in the seat wiring harness, can I use a 4 pin relay upstream of this to provide power to the system that is triggered by a switched power source? 4 pin relay wiring would be:
30 connects direct to 12V battery
85 connects to ground
86 connects to switched power source
87 connects to red wire in seat harness
Black wire from seat harness connects to ground
seat heater switch controls off, high and low setting
 
A relay is normally used to allow a small current to trigger a much larger one.

In your seat heater case, you’ll need 10AWG wire running from the battery all the way to the seat (with a fuse or breaker inline).

If the seat has a built in switch to turn on the heater, then no relay is needed or desired.

The only case for a relay to be added in the circuit is if you want a little dash switch to turn the seat heater on & off.
 
A relay is normally used to allow a small current to trigger a much larger one.

In your seat heater case, you’ll need 10AWG wire running from the battery all the way to the seat (with a fuse or breaker inline).

If the seat has a built in switch to turn on the heater, then no relay is needed or desired.

The only case for a relay to be added in the circuit is if you want a little dash switch to turn the seat heater on & off.
I want the small current from a switched power source to trigger the relay to then provide full 12V power from the battery to the seat heater wiring harness. If I use the seat heater wiring harness only and wire it direct to the battery then I run the risk of draining the battery if I forget to turn off the seat heater.

The seat heater wiring harness has a switch (high, low, off), a relay, a red wire with 10 amp fuse, a black wire, and two connectors to attach to the two heaters located in the bottom and back of the seat. The harness is all wrapped up so I can't see how the wiring is configured, but since it only has the one red and one black wire available for power and ground I want it on a switched power source. That is why I was asking if I could power it from the spare connector in the dash since it only provides power when the ignition is switched on.
 
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The ENGINE fuse terminal in the fuse panel is switched too.
I connected a wire to the back of that terminal to get a switched power source for my little headlight alarm.
 
The 6-pin connector to that 'Headlamp Washer relay' has two green wires into one pin. Those green wires are 12v switched (at least they are in my 5/85). You can use that pin to trigger the fused relay. The 6-pin connector is available with female terminals from Cruiser Cult if you don't want to be 'that guy' and hack up your harness wiring. ;)
 
I installed a Scheel-Mann driver seat with heaters and I'm looking for a switched power source to use with the provided seat wiring harness. The harness contains a relay that sits under the seat where the harness connects to the seat heaters and only has a red and black wire for power. There is also a connector in the harness for the seat heater switch, which has high, low and off. I dug into the dash to see what power source might be available in my 85' FJ60. I found the unused connector pictured below which sits between the rear window defogger switch and the cigarette lighter. Looking at the FSM diagrams it looks like this might be for rear fog lights used in the Euro models. One of the four terminals in this connector has 12V switched power, but I'm not sure which circuit this is connected to in the fuse panel and thus what the amp limit is. The Scheel-Mann harness contains a 10amp fuse on the red wire so I assume I need no more than 10amps of current. So will this unused connector in the dash work to power this one heated seat and if so can anyone tell me which connector type and terminals I would need to plug in to it?

If this connector is not a good source for powering a heated seat and I want the seat heater on switched power can I add a second relay to this seat wiring harness? This second relay would be wired to constant 12V power from the battery, and triggered by a switched power source to then provide the power to the seat harness. I watched the Cruiser Cult video on tapping in to the stock electric harness the clean way, but the connector in the drivers side kick panel is plugged in to a Koito Relay Cleaner Cont (see pic). I think this is a relay for the headlight washers. Can I tap one of the wires going into this headlight cleaner relay for the switched power source for the heated seat relay, or is there a better option?

View attachment 3513264

View attachment 3513265



i just got a special order kustom-made-to order in JAPAN spec. , mini meme production run made of those smaller 4-pin housings , there super popular with installing a cyclometer , and using it as a B+ and NEG power source


- if you would like a KIT of them for your MUD SANTA xmass gift ? , like right now
, PM me

- i will be happy to sport you a set .....after all it is xmass , and the season of giving back ...... :)



matt :santa: :santa: 🍻 🍻


,



,




(A)1.1 - Copy1.png
 
i just got a special order kustom-made-to order in JAPAN spec. , mini meme production run made of those smaller 4-pin housings , there super popular with installing a cyclometer , and using it as a B+ and NEG power source


- if you would like a KIT of them for your MUD SANTA xmass gift ? , like right now
, PM me

- i will be happy to sport you a set .....after all it is xmass , and the season of giving back ...... :)



matt :santa: :santa: 🍻 🍻


,



,




View attachment 3517136

PM sent
 

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