Need 23 pin diagnostic port adapter to16 pin obd II (2 Viewers)

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If you're just doing this one time, I wouldn't waste time trying to find one. Just make up a set of terminal-ended wires and screw them onto a board.

Here are the pinouts for both 16-pin and 23-pin connectors.
 
23-pin:
1748813807960.png


16-pin:
1748813928184.png


This isn't as neat as an adapter, but it'll do the job, and you should always have a dozen 6-inch lengths of wire with terminal ends crimped on them, for troubleshooting purposes. Type 2.3II males; Ballenger does have those. I buy them buy the hundred.
 
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If you just want to clear the ABS of codes, just follow the FSM.

Connect TC and E1, and remove the short pin, followed by depressing the brake pedal 8 or more times in <3 seconds.

1748819551173.png
 
23-pin:
View attachment 3919536

16-pin:
View attachment 3919537

This isn't as neat as an adapter, but it'll do the job, and you should always have a dozen 6-inch lengths of wire with a terminal ends crimped on them, for troubleshooting purposes. Type 2.3II males; Ballenger does have those. I buy them buy the hundred.
First, thank you for responding - I appreciate it immensely. I have a couple of questions. I'm going to profess my ignorance and say I know very little about this topic. As for the wire, what gauge should I use? I think I have some 20 gauge lying around. For the terminal ends, are you talking about the Type 2.3II terminal blades? When I search queried that on Ballenger it came up with no results?

Last question, once I make this board, how would I attach that to my OBD II reader?
 
Sorry, I misread. I also had to clear the Airbag light during my rebuild..😁 page DI-229 on my 1996 LX450 FSM.

1748820000020.png
 
Here's the Ballenger page:
1748827111264.png

Here's what you need to do:
» cut as many 6-inch lengths of 16-22ga wire (doesn't matter what size, whatever you have) as needed to match the 16-pin to 23-pin connectors
(you'll have to use the pinout pages to create a map)
» crimp a terminal onto each wire
» insert one terminal into each female in the connector
» get a piece of insulating board (a short piece of plywood will work) and screw insert a line of screws into the board; the number required will be the one-to-one map your created from the pinouts
» connect the bare wire ends of the terminal pairs to a single screw and run it into the board; repeat for each wire pair
» plug the connectors into their receptacles and go to work.

What you will have created is a 16-23 pin adapter; just not in a plastic housing. The adapater's job is to connect one wire at a time, in the first connector, to its corresponding wire in the other connector. If you think you need a longer patch cable between the firewall outlet (DLC1) and your OBDII linked tool (I assume you're using Techstream?), use more wire.
 
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The SRS system is very, very sensitive. I assume you've gone through the SRS diagnostics from page DI-240 to DI-283? Even if you think the problem is just turning the light off, you should go through the troubleshooting procedure, step by step, just to make certain something hasn't been damaged.
 
Here's the Ballenger page:
View attachment 3919745
Here's what you need to do:
» cut as many 6-inch lengths of 16-22ga wire (doesn't matter what size, whatever you have) as needed to match the 16-pin to 23-pin connectors
(you'll have to use the pinout pages to create a map)
» crimp a terminal onto each wire
» insert one terminal into each female in the connector
» get a piece of insulating board (a short piece of plywood will work) and screw insert a line of screws into the board; the number required will be the one-to-one map your created from the pinouts
» connect the bare wire ends of the terminal pairs to a single screw and run it into the board; repeat for each wire pair
» plug the connectors into their receptacles and go to work.

What you will have created is a 16-23 pin adapter; just not in a plastic housing. The adapater's job is to connect one wire at a time, in the first connector, to its corresponding wire in the other connector. If you think you need a longer patch cable between the firewall outlet (DLC1) and your OBDII linked tool (I assume you're using Techstream?).
Thank you. I largely follow what you're describing, but I can only see the 23 pin part that is being bolted into the insulating board. I am not seeing the 16 pin that would attach to the OBD II reader? Am I missing something? BTW I am using a Foxwell NT630 Pro
 
The screws are the "adapter". You do the same thing for both connectors.

You need to find the terminals of the 16-pin map that correspond to the terminals in the 23-pin map.

I'd do it for you, but I have my hands in two other fires right now. If you don't get it by tomorrow, LMK.
 
The SRS system is very, very sensitive. I assume you've gone through the SRS diagnostics from page DI-240 to DI-283? Even if you think the problem is just turning the light off, you should go through the troubleshooting procedure, step by step, just to make certain something hasn't been damaged.
I actually had Toyota do the diagnostic and they said it was the airbag ecu module. I bought a used one and replaced it.
 
Thank you. I largely follow what you're describing, but I can only see the 23 pin part that is being bolted into the insulating board. I am not seeing the 16 pin that would attach to the OBD II reader? Am I missing something? BTW I am using a Foxwell NT630 Pro
How I'm looking at it is that I would have 23 screws for the Toyota side but which screws would I come off of for the 16 pin? Sorry if I sound clueless (I am). Thank you for your help and patience.
 
I wouldn't trust that anymore than a used condom. Take a minute and do it yourself. It's not hard.
 
Not every pin is used. Start from the 16-pin side. I think you only need five of the 23-pin terminals for the airbag system.
 

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