Looks great... did you do single stage or base/clear? It sure looks as shiny as clear. I am leaning toward dune also, and wanted base/clear originally, but everyone has talked me into single stage for non metallic colors. Thanks
Near complete...
- Thread starter Millardo
- Start date
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Millardo
'72 FJ40
- Thread starter
- #22
I went with single stage just because the paint shop I visited suggested it would be the most forgiving for a novice painter. I don't know how true that is, it's just what I was told.
It has a nice gloss because I wet sanded out all the dust and imperfections, then buffed and buffed.
I went with a medium/fast reducer since I was shooting outside. You want it flash off and dry pretty quick so it reduces the amount of dust that somehow finds you. You end up sanding out a bit of orange peel, verses a nice wet slow cure that you can afford in a booth. That allows the paint to flatten out nicely.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
It has a nice gloss because I wet sanded out all the dust and imperfections, then buffed and buffed.
I went with a medium/fast reducer since I was shooting outside. You want it flash off and dry pretty quick so it reduces the amount of dust that somehow finds you. You end up sanding out a bit of orange peel, verses a nice wet slow cure that you can afford in a booth. That allows the paint to flatten out nicely.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Congratulations!
Nice job Millardo. I've been particularly interested in your project because your 40 was built a few weeks after mine, Feb 1972 but you are waaaay ahead of me. It is inspiration to keep making progress. Please post more pictures when it's complete. My frame & drive train are close to complete and I've refurbished many components, now boxed & ready to install.
Nice job Millardo. I've been particularly interested in your project because your 40 was built a few weeks after mine, Feb 1972 but you are waaaay ahead of me. It is inspiration to keep making progress. Please post more pictures when it's complete. My frame & drive train are close to complete and I've refurbished many components, now boxed & ready to install.
Cdaniel
Undocumented Mechanic-I Am Not CDAN
Stop being a tease and let us see some more pictures of this work of art 
Looks like you are a very tenacious project pit bull. Congrats on seeing the finish line!
Looks stunning (from what little we see
)
Looks like you are a very tenacious project pit bull. Congrats on seeing the finish line!
Looks stunning (from what little we see
)
Millardo
'72 FJ40
- Thread starter
- #25
That looks all too familiar, nice work!
I will be posting more photo's soon as she rolls out... Next weekend, ...hood install, rear doors and spare tire carrier. Front seats the following weekend and she's ready to go.
Only decision left is original '72 jump seats, or '74 jump seats with OEM roll bar. I scored a great deal on the latter, and the pads on the roll bar are mint! I like that look, but it will be the only thing not stock on this resto.
Thoughts?
Keep at it, you're doing a fantastic job!
Millardo
'72 FJ40
- Thread starter
- #26
Stop being a tease and let us see some more pictures of this work of art
Looks like you are a very tenacious project pit bull. Congrats on seeing the finish line!
Looks stunning (from what little we see
Hahaha...
It's so buried in this one car garage it's laughable. More pictures soon, promise.
She rolls out May 5th for Toyota Fest, so certainly by then.
My71FJ40
SILVER Star
Are you taking the "stock" donuts off of the bumperettes? 
My71FJ40
SILVER Star
Something does go there! When you have a donut, you have a donut HOLE 
Great, will keep this in mind. Thanks
Refurbish steering wheel
"Did you refurbish your steering wheel?"
Yes, I was very happy with the results on my steering wheel and center 2 ring pieces. The acrylic emblem in the middle was badly crazed. I tried wet sanding & clear coating but it didn't look so good so I ended up just painting it.
The steering wheel that was on the truck when I got it had cracks at the root of each spoke that ran all the way through the edges of the hub. I bought another (thanks LCCruiser) that had similar cracks but not as bad. The plastic had been degraded by sunlight and had a soft layer of gray oxidation on the surface.
For the wheel the process was... Wet sanded with 400 grit paper until the layer of oxidation was gone. Filled the cracks with polyester body finishing putty. Painted it with Rustoleum all surface paint that I knew would stick to anything (no primer), The stuff goes on like glue and stays sticky. It takes at least 24 hours to dry. wet sanded again w/ 400 & repainted. Wet sanded with 600 and finished with 1000 being careful to go through the layer of paint. After the 1000 grit wet sanding the part really looks like molded plastic. I'll give it a coat of wax before putting it on.
For the outer (steel) trim ring sanded with 100 grit & wire brush to get through the rust. Treated with phosphoric acid to kill any remaining oxidation. Primed & wet sanded about 3 or 4 times. I was able to gently hold it on the inside diameter in a metal lathe and hold the paper against it as it turned. Finished with Rustoleum 500 degree engine paint that has a good hard glossy surface. Inner ring was brass so just wire brushed primed & painted. I'd still like to find a center medallion in decent shape but for now it's all presentable.
"Did you refurbish your steering wheel?"
Yes, I was very happy with the results on my steering wheel and center 2 ring pieces. The acrylic emblem in the middle was badly crazed. I tried wet sanding & clear coating but it didn't look so good so I ended up just painting it.
The steering wheel that was on the truck when I got it had cracks at the root of each spoke that ran all the way through the edges of the hub. I bought another (thanks LCCruiser) that had similar cracks but not as bad. The plastic had been degraded by sunlight and had a soft layer of gray oxidation on the surface.
For the wheel the process was... Wet sanded with 400 grit paper until the layer of oxidation was gone. Filled the cracks with polyester body finishing putty. Painted it with Rustoleum all surface paint that I knew would stick to anything (no primer), The stuff goes on like glue and stays sticky. It takes at least 24 hours to dry. wet sanded again w/ 400 & repainted. Wet sanded with 600 and finished with 1000 being careful to go through the layer of paint. After the 1000 grit wet sanding the part really looks like molded plastic. I'll give it a coat of wax before putting it on.
For the outer (steel) trim ring sanded with 100 grit & wire brush to get through the rust. Treated with phosphoric acid to kill any remaining oxidation. Primed & wet sanded about 3 or 4 times. I was able to gently hold it on the inside diameter in a metal lathe and hold the paper against it as it turned. Finished with Rustoleum 500 degree engine paint that has a good hard glossy surface. Inner ring was brass so just wire brushed primed & painted. I'd still like to find a center medallion in decent shape but for now it's all presentable.
Millardo
'72 FJ40
- Thread starter
- #33
Wow that looks amazing. Mine is in the condition you described for the one you purchased. Cracked at the base of each spoke, but not all the way through. Thought I would carefully fill with an epoxy glue and sand smooth. Same soft layer of gray oxidation on the surface.
I have been searching for a center medallion for over a year. Mine is a cracked mess.
Going to dig into mine toward the end of the month and will follow your instruction, Thanks!
I have been searching for a center medallion for over a year. Mine is a cracked mess.
Going to dig into mine toward the end of the month and will follow your instruction, Thanks!
Another thumbs up on the steering wheel resto job. It looks fantastic. I have the same grey oxidation on mine and dry sanding it just clogs up the paper. Didn't think of wet sanding. Above you said "being careful to go through the layer of paint" when sanding with 1000 grit. I assume you meant to not go through the paint, right?
Wet sanding tip: Put a little dish soap, about 6 drops / gallon or a scrap of bath soap in the water to keep the paper from clogging & buggering up the surface. The small quantity of soap won't contaminate the part for painting, just don't over do it and be sure to rinse & wipe it dry. Cut a block of LDPE closed cell foam for blocking/sanding on contoured surfaces. The foam is frequently used as packaging for things like TVs or computers, semi rigid, flexible with a skin on 2 sides.
