I'm very close to finishing up my months of prep for the new paint job. I'm using a single stage Dune Beige and am wondering if anybody has opinions one way or the other on the above brands. I believe the Nason is cheaper and a buddy has all of the reducers and hardners already for the Nason paint. Any input from guys who have used it would help.
Nason vs PPG single stage. Opinions needed
- Thread starter sblesse
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I haven't used the PPG but I have sprayed the Nason a few times and provided the work underneath the paint is good it can look fantastic. I didn't paint the car below but it belongs to a friend of mine and it was just painted with Nason single stage last spring. Pic doesn't do it justice it's incredibly flat and shiny.
I have used lots of PPG and would easily vote for it. I have never used Nason. But, after "months of prep", I certainly would want to use the best paint. By the way, have you considered two stage (base coat clear coat). Much easier for a novice and many times more resilient to roadside damage. Again, a bit more expensive, but "it's worth it". We only use single stage for roll bars and such.
Don
Don
X2. I would strongly consider BC/CC if you're a novice. The hardest part is the clear. A monkey could spray base coat, but the clear can run on you if you're not careful. With a BC/CC system, you can also get away with using a cheaper level base as long as you use a quality clear.
Another advantage is that you can sand down any runs in the clear with a block and some 1000 and buff to perfection. Most tree branch scratches can be buffed out.
Don
- Thread starter
- #7
BTW - The "months of prep" is because I have a 2 year old and a 3 month old. My off days I get out to work on it during nap time. So not a whole lot of total hours into it but I definitely don't want to paint it again any time soon
Nason (Dupont) and PPG have more than one single stage paint. Which ones are you considering?
FYI, I'm a novice but have sprayed Nason 2k Urathane, Nason Synthetic Enamal, PPG Delstar/Delthane Acrylic Enamal, Shopline (PPG) Acrylic Urethane, and Omni (PPG) BC/CC.
As Splangy mentioned, the BB/CC systems can be good for the novice because they allow for correcting some mistakes along the way, especially in the BC. But, the CC can be harder to spray as it tends to run or sag easier in my experience than single stage color coats. If you don’t get the CC on with enough thickness (mils) then it won't last long against UV. For me, CC is also harder to 'see' as you are spraying it so that may be a contributing factor to my runs or sags when spraying this.
For the money and durability, if you go with a single stage, I would say the Delthane is a good choice. You may or may not be able to get it in your county in California as it does not meet some VOC regulations. I also prefer the look of a single stage on an fj40 vs. the BB/CC paints as I think they tend to be glossier. The single stage paint is glossy at the beginning but I like the way it ages better than a BC/CC.
Also mentioned by Splangy, you can go cheaper on the BB, then upgrade the CC to save money on materials. The Omni (PPG) CC is ‘relatively’ cheap, but did not last a long time for me before it started to show signs of UV damage. About 4-5 years. Again, I’m a novice, so application could have been part of the issue. If I were to use a BB/CC again, I’d have no issues using the Omni BC but I think I would go with a top of line PPG brand CC. Its money saved in the end rather than a repaint later.
FYI, I'm a novice but have sprayed Nason 2k Urathane, Nason Synthetic Enamal, PPG Delstar/Delthane Acrylic Enamal, Shopline (PPG) Acrylic Urethane, and Omni (PPG) BC/CC.
As Splangy mentioned, the BB/CC systems can be good for the novice because they allow for correcting some mistakes along the way, especially in the BC. But, the CC can be harder to spray as it tends to run or sag easier in my experience than single stage color coats. If you don’t get the CC on with enough thickness (mils) then it won't last long against UV. For me, CC is also harder to 'see' as you are spraying it so that may be a contributing factor to my runs or sags when spraying this.
For the money and durability, if you go with a single stage, I would say the Delthane is a good choice. You may or may not be able to get it in your county in California as it does not meet some VOC regulations. I also prefer the look of a single stage on an fj40 vs. the BB/CC paints as I think they tend to be glossier. The single stage paint is glossy at the beginning but I like the way it ages better than a BC/CC.
Also mentioned by Splangy, you can go cheaper on the BB, then upgrade the CC to save money on materials. The Omni (PPG) CC is ‘relatively’ cheap, but did not last a long time for me before it started to show signs of UV damage. About 4-5 years. Again, I’m a novice, so application could have been part of the issue. If I were to use a BB/CC again, I’d have no issues using the Omni BC but I think I would go with a top of line PPG brand CC. Its money saved in the end rather than a repaint later.
If you use a solid color you can wet sand and buff single stage too. I painted my FJ40 with Napa crossfire urethane in my dusty garage. Lots of wet sanding and buffing and it came out great. I've got 1 paint bubble that recently popped up but I did paint it back in I think 2002 so I can't complain. The Capri I posted a picture of was color sanded too. I'm a novice too but for me a color sanded single stage always seems to wind up shinier than a base clear job.
another point to consider, is if your "prep" also included spraying sealers, and or primer surfacers, then staying with the same brand/system is a good way to avoid unwanted surprises when laying down the color.
A great point about mixing brands. It's no guaranteed failure if you mix up brands, but it's a guaranteed success if you stay with one brand of primers, sealers, base coats and clears.
By the way, my daughter is a nurse at Fremont-Rideout.
Don
- Thread starter
- #13
I do need to check on that. The only thing that I have put down is a thin layer of self etching Rustoleum primer to avoid any rust on my bare metal. I'm hoping that the Nason will be compatible. We are going to lay down several coats of build primer followed by a sealer and then paint.
No kidding, small world. Never had to use their facilites myself, but its the only option in our immediate area otherwise you need to travel 40 miles to Roseville or Sac. Nice to know its there when needed.
Foot note: In my opinion, the best Auto Parts Store in the area, Hust Brothers, is right across the street.
I'd be cautions with self-etching primers. Even staying within in the same brand/system, you may need to top coat an etching primer with a compatable sealer before applying anything else. Also, putting a high quality primer with agressive solvents over a lesser quality one can lead to issues. If you've only used it in areas, the best way might be to remove it (sanding) before applying the high build primer or whatever you lay down next.
I would recommend not letting a high build primer/surfacer sit on the car for a long period of time before applying the sealer if its been layed down over bare metal. Primers are porous and the moisture, especially this time of year will eventually get down to the bare metal under that primer. If its going to be a long process, or the car is exposed to temperture changes and/or weather prior to the sealer application, then apply sealer over the bare metal, followed by the high build/sanding/surfacer primer. You can always seal again prior to color if you want.
Sounds like you have a knowledgeable friend who's done this before, so using what they're familiar with already is a big plus over asking them to use a new product for the first time to paint your ride.
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You should never spray directly over etching primer. Especially rust-oleum! Why are you going top-shelf with the paint if you used Rust-o-leum as a base? You will need to spray a surfacer primer over the etching primer (then block it) and then paint. If you haven't applied a surfacer primer and blocked yet, then your're probably not ready for paint.
I wouldn't spray a sealer directly over etching primer, either. Most people use thinned epoxy primers as sealers, and a lot of epoxies shouldn't be sprayed directly over etching primers.
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ok, good to know. I generally don't use etching primers so my experience is almost zero with them.
No kidding, small world. Never had to use their facilites myself, but its the only option in our immediate area otherwise you need to travel 40 miles to Roseville or Sac. Nice to know its there when needed.
Foot note: In my opinion, the best Auto Parts Store in the area, Hust Brothers, is right across the street.
Lived in Maxwell from 1970 to 1994. Moved to Woodland. Worked in the rice milling industry, first in Maxwell, then Arbuckle, then Woodland. Left in 2004, moved to SW Colorado and started this company. I know Hust Bro well. I drove a 69 Nissan Patrol from 1970 to 2003......
Don