I'll attempt to address all questions/comments with my understanding of things.
>Comment: "that makes no sense"
The button engages ALL of the unlock actuators. There are 5. If I disconnect 2 of the actuators (so there's now 3 instead of 5), it makes perfect sense to me that when I replicate the "stuck on" button state, the current is reduced because now only 3 of the actuators are contributing rather than 5. It tends to prove that there is no short, but rather the actuators are each contributing. If there was a short, then disabling 2 of the actuators would have resulted in either (1) a reduction to 0 amps, or (2) observance of the original problem - 16 amps.
>Question: "did it take you 30 seconds to measure draw"
I'm not sure what you mean. I measured the current instantaneously. When I "unstick" the button, then 0 amps registers on my 0-30A ammeter. When I create the problem state by making the button stuck on, there's 16amps immediately. The longest I observed was 90 seconds and it remained constant at 16amps the entire 90 seconds. I did not want to leave it on longer for fear it might damage something - regardless of where it is coming from.
>Comment: "like previously reported with +/- 1/3 of the draw after 20-30 seconds"
As mentioned above, the current never changed within each test - whether I observed for 30 secs or 90 secs. Now, I did witness over a period of time (hours, even days) a reduction of current from 16 amps to 13 amps. I believe this is because I tested so many times that the cumulative effect of these tests was that my batteries got weaker and weaker. However, I had fully recharged my batteries with an external charger just before I discovered the lock actuators. So the drain was back up to a constant 16 amps.
> Comments: "you have a fault in your ‘glow system’ most likely"
During testing, I completely disconnect wires to the both of my glow relays. While these wires were disconnected, the 16 amps current was still witnessed. Like DEADSALT, the glow system was one of the first things I thought of which is why I tested this first.
Also noteworthy. Since I discovered the sticking lock button and "unstuck" it, there has been zero drain on my batteries. It fired right up after sitting overnight just like normal.
>Comment: "if a ‘door’ button is not depressed it will not and cannot draw any amps as it it only a ‘switch’ to activate a ‘motor’."
True, if the door lock button is not depressed it will not draw current. The problem was that the button was STUCK in the depressed position. This in turn, activates the relays for ALL 5 door locks. Likewise, the relays (I assume 1 per actuator) remained in a CLOSED state. It was then the actuators, not the switch, that was drawing all of the current. Probably the actual current through the switch/button itself is negligible.
