Mysterious connection neath plastic valance at steering wheel.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Threads
11
Messages
32
Location
Massachusetts
GOOD MORNING ALL, I HAVE JUST NOW REMOVED THE PLASTIC COVER TO THE LOWER SECTION HOUSEING AT THE STEERING WHEEL IN MY 2004 100 SERIES.
GOOD SO FAR, I NOW FIND THAT THE CAR CRANKS OVER AS USUAL BUT WILL NOT START. WORKED LIKE A CHAMP BEFORE I GOT INTO THEIGNITION AND AREA BENEATH THE STEERING WHEEL.
AS THE VEHICLE FUNCTIONED WELL BEFORE I STARTED PULLING PANELS, I AM GOING WITH THAT AS THE REASON FOR THIS.
NEW BATTERY, PLENTY OF GAS, CHECKED FUSES.
LOOKED INTO THE CAR LATE LAST NIGHT AND DID NOT SEE THE TOYOTA RED FLASHING SECURITY LIGHT ON. IN MY CAR THERE IS A FLASHING OF THIS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS LOCKED.
LOOKING AT THE ENCLOSED PICTURE YOU CAN SEE A SNAP CONNECTION THAT JUST LIES THERE AND THE OTHER END OF WHICH I CANNOT FIND. BELIEVE THIS IS PREVENTING START-UP.
CAN A MEMBER SHED LIGHT ON THIS ELECTRICAL FITTING AND TELL ME WHERE IT SNAPS IN PLACE. CANT REMEMBER DISCONNECTING IT BUT PERHAPS PULLED FREE WHEN I REMOVED THE PLASTIC COVER.
YOUR INFORMATION VERY WELL APPRECIATED.
1124-24 IGNITION PROBLEM.JPG
IGNITION OUTLET.JPG
 
Talked with a good mechanic and he's pretty sure that the unexplained plug beneath the steering wheel is a type of fault detector connection. Seems about right as there is no other valid reason and there is nothing to connect into.
As to the car not starting, I had pulled the bezel ring and attached housing out to check it for light etc.
The mechanic tells me that these are pre-programmed for the vehicles and that withdrawing them might have broken an internal wire.
To back this up he told me that this had happened to him at his garage working on a customers car and that he had to call a locksmith to service the problem.
 
The caps man, turn them off, going to be hard to get anyone to read that post. I don’t believe my LC has that connector.

We have the crank no start Secruity thread, that’s where I would start.
 
GOOD MORNING ALL, I HAVE JUST NOW REMOVED THE PLASTIC COVER TO THE LOWER SECTION HOUSEING AT THE STEERING WHEEL IN MY 2004 100 SERIES.
GOOD SO FAR, I NOW FIND THAT THE CAR CRANKS OVER AS USUAL BUT WILL NOT START. WORKED LIKE A CHAMP BEFORE I GOT INTO THEIGNITION AND AREA BENEATH THE STEERING WHEEL.
AS THE VEHICLE FUNCTIONED WELL BEFORE I STARTED PULLING PANELS, I AM GOING WITH THAT AS THE REASON FOR THIS.
NEW BATTERY, PLENTY OF GAS, CHECKED FUSES.
LOOKED INTO THE CAR LATE LAST NIGHT AND DID NOT SEE THE TOYOTA RED FLASHING SECURITY LIGHT ON. IN MY CAR THERE IS A FLASHING OF THIS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS LOCKED.
LOOKING AT THE ENCLOSED PICTURE YOU CAN SEE A SNAP CONNECTION THAT JUST LIES THERE AND THE OTHER END OF WHICH I CANNOT FIND. BELIEVE THIS IS PREVENTING START-UP.
CAN A MEMBER SHED LIGHT ON THIS ELECTRICAL FITTING AND TELL ME WHERE IT SNAPS IN PLACE. CANT REMEMBER DISCONNECTING IT BUT PERHAPS PULLED FREE WHEN I REMOVED THE PLASTIC COVER.
YOUR INFORMATION VERY WELL APPRECIATED.View attachment 3764326View attachment 3764327
why you yelling at everyone
 
The caps man, turn them off, going to be hard to get anyone to read that post. I don’t believe my LC has that connector.

We have the crank no start Secruity thread, that’s where I would start.
Thanks for your reply, old eyes and glasses here. Changed to proper grammar. Will look into new threads , appreciate your efforts
 
Thanks for your reply, old eyes and glasses here. Changed to proper grammar. Will look into new threads , appreciate your efforts

why you yelling at everyone
Didn't know that you could have the written words transcribed into the spoken language, this is commendable as persons my age have extreme difficulty sometimes. An excellent gesture for the visually impaired and senior citizens.
Have had family comment on my excessive use of capitals, apologies to all, the large print helps these old eyes see the text better.
Thanks for your comments.
 
See if receiver for immobilizer (red) has a wire to it. If not, see if this loose wire housing block will. As always when working on electrical/wire/plugs disconnect battery negative cable first. Or you may, set off an airbag or short a computer otherwise.
1124-24 IGNITION PROBLEM.JPG
 
Last edited:
I believe it gose temp sensor... something to do with the AUTO feature of the HVAC controls...
 
The fact the security red light not on when IG key out of IG SW. Indicates circuit for security/immobilizer system, is not complete. The crank no start, happening only after dash knee kick panel removed and loose wire block seen. Are both clues, what that wire is for.

The immobilize wire housing block, plugs in here. This IG SW, happens to be from 04LX.

04LX JTJHT00WX43545638 (2).JPEG
IMG_2813.JPEG

The little white hose connects to the air duct for the vent below the steering wheel, some places have you shut off this vent as the air would be routed to other and better sites. Defroster etc.
I see (or so it appears in blurry pic) the HVAC sensor wire is still attached. The hose does connect to the HVAC sensor just above it's wire. Which sensor attaches (as is in pic) to vent below IG SW on the knee kick panel. If the hose is not attached to HVAC air cabin air sample sensor. The HVAC auto controls, only turn on HAVC fan, when temp set in max cold or max hot. I found it best to unclip the sensor from dash molding. Attach wire and hose to sensor. Then attach sensor assy to knee kick panel, while placing knee kick panel in place.
While I've HVAC air senor sampler detached from the knee kick panel. I clean sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.
006c.JPG

HVAC sensor, without it's wire attached. It just happens to be clocked upside down, in these picture
009.JPG
 
Last edited:
The fact the security red light not on when IG key out of IG SW. Indicates circuit for security/immobilizer system, is not complete. The crank no start, happening only after dash knee kick panel removed and loose wire block seen. Are both clues, what that wire is for.

The immobilize wire housing block, plugs in here. This IG SW, happens to be from 04LX.

View attachment 3771719View attachment 3771730

I see (or so it appears in blurry pic) the HVAC sensor wire is still attached. The hose does connect to the HVAC sensor just above it's wire. Which sensor attaches (as is in pic) to vent below IG SW on the knee kick panel. If the hose is not attached to HVAC air cabin air sample sensor. The HVAC auto controls, only turn on HAVC fan, when temp set in max cold or max hot. I found it best to unclip the sensor from dash molding. Attach wire and hose to sensor. Then attach sensor assy to knee kick panel, while placing knee kick panel in place.
While I've HVAC air senor sampler detached from the knee kick panel. I clean sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.
View attachment 3771711
HVAC sensor, without it's wire attached. It just happens to be clocked upside down, in these picture
View attachment 3771712

The fact the security red light not on when IG key out of IG SW. Indicates circuit for security/immobilizer system, is not complete. The crank no start, happening only after dash knee kick panel removed and loose wire block seen. Are both clues, what that wire is for.

The immobilize wire housing block, plugs in here. This IG SW, happens to be from 04LX.

View attachment 3771719View attachment 3771730

I see (or so it appears in blurry pic) the HVAC sensor wire is still attached. The hose does connect to the HVAC sensor just above it's wire. Which sensor attaches (as is in pic) to vent below IG SW on the knee kick panel. If the hose is not attached to HVAC air cabin air sample sensor. The HVAC auto controls, only turn on HAVC fan, when temp set in max cold or max hot. I found it best to unclip the sensor from dash molding. Attach wire and hose to sensor. Then attach sensor assy to knee kick panel, while placing knee kick panel in place.
While I've HVAC air senor sampler detached from the knee kick panel. I clean sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.
View attachment 3771711
HVAC sensor, without it's wire attached. It just happens to be clocked upside down, in these picture
View attachment 3771712
Thanks for your efforts , the pictures are a great help.
Took the car to my mechanic and he fixed this problem easily. He said the amplifier transponder switch wasn't into the connection completely.
I know enough this late in life to check for a sure fit. I had pressed the ring firmly and completely onto the ignition orifice. Can only think that something at the connection was awry and I wasn't getting a sure fit. I had an aftermarket LX470 unit in place of the original and I thought this was doing something, however it wasn't the case.
In a circumstanced like this , even though I had pushed the bezel ring on firmly and know it was aligned true due to the guide tracks that must be aligned to seat the unit, it wasn't making contact. Old age here kept me from diving under the wheel and making sure connection was complete, sure pushed it in and may even have snapped into place.
Thanks all, when you follow procedures and things don't go right, go back and make sure you did everything correctly.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom