My wheel rocks too....

[Photo_Cruiser]

I've got a bit o play in my front wheel Passenger side, and I read completely through docs issues. I plan on a full axle overhaul in the next month or so....but...to get safely on the road this weekend I was going to ...

Remove the wheel,

remove nuts and cone washers

remove outer 54mm nut
remove lock washer
tighten inner 54mm
replace washer
replace outer 54mm nut
tighten to 48 ft/lbs

replace wheel

go on vacacation....

I have been aware of the play in the wheel bearing since the Dusy..I figure I am trashing a bearing by not immediately addressing it. But, as a noob, I did not realize I ran the risk of the whole nuckle flying off...

It's been like this for about 3 weeks...Anybody wanna upgrade my quick fix plan to an exact procedure to get me throgh a couple of weeks until a rebuild??

Thanks

 

[nakman]

Just need to quantify how much you're going to tighten that inner nut.. IIRC the torque is 48 inch pounds, which isn't much. 1/4 turn or so shouldn't do any harm, but it's more of a feel thing, and so it'll be up to you how loose it feels, then how much tighter doesn't seem too tight.

 

[Beowulf]

Photo_Cruiser,

I'm assuming you're lacking some tools like the spring guage? If you have a Harbor Freight close by they're about $8 in the kitchen section.

==================================
This is the PROPER way to do it (From memory)
==================================

Remove the wheel,
Remove the dust cap
Remove brake caliper (2 bolts - hang it with wire to the coil spring)
remove nuts, lock washers, and cone washers (You'll need a brass hammer or brass drift)
Remove outer flange and be careful with the gasket as you'll need to re-use it.
remove outer 54mm nut
remove lock washer

tighten inner 54mm
(1. Torque to 43ft/lbs)
(2. Turn rotor 4 or 5 times each direction)
(3. Loosen, then re-torque to 43 ft/lbs)
(4. Turn rotor 4 or 5 times each direction)
(5. Loosen, then torque to 3 ft/lbs - Thats not a typo)
(6. Check with spring gauge - 6 to 12 lbs)
replace star washer (carefully bend tabs *tightly!!!*
replace outer 54mm nut
(1. Torque to 43 ft/lbs)
(2. Turn rotor 4 or 5 times each direction)
(3. Check with spring gauge - 6 to 12 lbs)

Replace brake caliper (90 ft/lbs)
replace outer flange (should have a new gasket but reuse the old one)
install cone washers, round washers, and nuts (torque 22 ft/lbs)
install dust cap

replace wheel (Torque to 76 ft/lbs if factory alloys)

go on vacation.... (Have fun)



============
NOTE
I think you're trying to get by without accurate measurements and that's OK.
In that case, skip removing the brake caliper and just go by feel on the
tightening of the inner and outer lock hub nuts.
==============

==============
Additional information:
==============
Since you've got it jacked up and you're trying to address a "loose wheel", now would be a good time to check the torque on the 4 bolts that hold the steering arm to the bottom of the knuckle. I don't have the torque handy and I don't remember but it's probably in the 40-60 range. (47 ft/lb ??? ) You should check both sides.

-B-

 

[lurker]

I've got a bit o play in my front wheel Passenger side, and I read completely through docs issues. I plan on a full axle overhaul in the next month or so....but...to get safely on the road this weekend I was going to ...

Remove the wheel,

remove nuts and cone washers

remove outer 54mm nut
remove lock washer
tighten inner 54mm
replace washer
replace outer 54mm nut
tighten to 48 ft/lbs

replace wheel

go on vacacation....

I have been aware of the play in the wheel bearing since the Dusy..I figure I am trashing a bearing by not immediately addressing it. But, as a noob, I did not realize I ran the risk of the whole nuckle flying off...

It's been like this for about 3 weeks...Anybody wanna upgrade my quick fix plan to an exact procedure to get me throgh a couple of weeks until a rebuild??

Thanks

Do you notice any instability when breaking going down hills as in the steering wheel?

 

[landtank]

the spring guage, it's probably what put you in this situation in the first place.

 

[Beowulf]

>> it's probably what put you in this situation in the first place. <<

You have to admit that it gives something tangible to test, for those that haven't done the procedure before. We never used spring scales when I was growing up and learning but there was always someone to show you what what was correct and you could touch it and tell what it felt like when the bearing was seated and tightened correctly.

-B-

 

[landtank]

You have to admit that it gives something tangible to test

Not at all. This type of proceedure only works on clean dry parts. As soon as you introduce an unknown the test is void. In this case it is the grease. It's unknown because you don't have a way of verifying the effect of drag on the bearing for your exact temp and manufacturer of grease. This doesn't include the fact that grease as all lubricants change over time and their properties that would effect such a test also change. Since Toyota hasn't kept the proceedure current with modern greases than it's invalid.

I doubt you could write a proceedure that would be able to convey how to properly do it but in the old FJ60 manuals they used torque settings on the 54mm nut which I still use today, well slightly higher than in the FSM but that's probably do to the fact that I'm a cheap bastard and reuse the locking rings that are no longer flat and introduce error in the torque method.

 

[Landpimp]

jack up the side your working on, leave the wheel/tire on, leave caliper on, tear apart to the inner nut. grab tire at 12 and 6 and wiggle, tighten nut untill the wiggle is just gone, spin the wheel around/back and forth a few times, check the play again, if good....lock nut down......bolt it all back up. Takes all off 10 min.

 

[landtank]

My problem with doing that was the used locking ring. The truck would drive great for a while and then you could feel the wheel getting sloppy. I assumed it was the locking ring flattening out some from driving and introducing some play in the bearing. This happened again and again so I then snugged it up a little more and all was good until the next bearing repack.

 

[Doc]

Do what LandPimp said.

That's exactly what I did when I had this problem, until I got my parts from Dan. Then I did it right.

Glad to see that topic helped you out a bit.

 

[Landpimp]

thats how I adjust all my bearings, never had a problem or one loosen up, never burned one up. I do have a nice stash of OEM lockwashers around, I will only reuse one......once.

Do what LandPimp said.

That's exactly what I did when I had this problem, until I got my parts from Dan. Then I did it right.

Glad to see that topic helped you out a bit.

 

[Doc]

Just for clarification, by "did it right" I mean I did the full axle overhaul, as it needed one. There's nothing wrong with only adjusting the locknuts. A full re-build is not needed everytime you crack open the hub.

 

[landtank]

I believe you have some room when tightening the nuts as far as "over" tighteneing. The idea is not to exceed the force that would normally be applied to the bearing from normal use. That would be the weight of the vehicle while driving.

 

[Rich]

There should be very slight end play when the bearing is properly pre loaded. That almost always ends up being less than finger tight. Overtight is at the expense of bearing life. Way overtight is at expense of hub remaining attached to axle.

 

[landtank]

My comments are based on my experiences with a FJ60 and FZJ80. Finger tight wouldn't work for me. I'd have some front end shaking from the wheel bearing. And by all acounts I slightly overtighten my bearings now. I've only replaced my bearings once for both trucks which was trying too identify a noise that turned out to be a dry spindle bushing. Of course this is only 2 trucks that I've driven in excess of 325,000 miles combined. I repack them about every 50k with regular old bearing grease.

We have a few nervious nellies out there and I wanted them to know there is some room for error that won't destroy the truck. Putting a dial indicator on the hub and checking for end play is way over the top as far as what's needed to set the bearing and have them perform well til the next repacking.

 

[Rich]

I have no problem setting tapered spindle bearings preload by hand. For people with no experience, the dial indicator method is more straight forward and more repeatable than messing with a spring scale. Which is why I have shared that information here.

Given that I have seen this approach recommended by both an automobile manufacturer and a bearing manufacturer, I disagree that directly measuring end play is over the top.

I would be suspicious that there may be other issues with your spindles, bearings, or hub assembly if you have to over tighten the adjusting nut in order to avoid wheel shake. I consider 20 foot lbs of torque on the adjusting nut to be significantly over tightened. Isn't that how you have yours set? I may be wrong, but that is the torque I recall you using.

 

[landtank]

Yes Rich that's right. Any play in the bearings and I feel it at 70 mph on the pot hole ridden New England highways. I figure if they are significantly over tight I would have seen some sort of evidence after this many miles. Especially since I drive hours at a time at 75+ mph almost weekly. Just last week I drove from my house to Buffalo NY. 500+ miles and only stopped for fuel. On the repacks I haven't seen any issues at all, no pitting or discoloration.

Just my personal experience and some food for thought.

 

[Rich]

Rick, I know what you mean about the New England highways. I expect you and I have driven the same roads. The freeze thaw cycles do a number on the pavement. I'm a long ways from there now.