I used the same manifold for my turbo build and used the OEM gasket as a template an used a die grinder to grind the EGR passage. Not sure if I needed to, but the factory exhaust manifold had this recess, so I thought it would be a safe bet to duplicate this on the turbo manifold.
Builds my turbo build
- Thread starter TRDCRUISER95
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- Thread starter
- #82
I looked up the pin outs for the signals you want.
the MAF signal is labeled VG and is Connector E5 pin 2
the Engine Speed signal is labeled NE and is Connector E6 pin 12
Engine speed or RPMs is read through the distributor from what I have read.
the MAF signal is labeled VG and is Connector E5 pin 2
the Engine Speed signal is labeled NE and is Connector E6 pin 12
Engine speed or RPMs is read through the distributor from what I have read.
- Thread starter
- #84
subscribed ! more pics please.
Toyo Boyo
SILVER Star
Hey TRD - any updates? Have you sorted the fuelling issues?
I was looking back through the thread to check how you have routed the water cooling for the turbo.
From what I can see you have come off the thermostat housing, gone though the turbo, then plumbed back into where the original line was going from the thermostat housing.
I attach the drawing of how the Safari turbo gets cooled. As far as I can see, you have to go either side of the flow through the thermostat to get flow through the turbo.
I'm racking my brains to tell whether your way will flow or not?!?!? I'm thinking that your way will, and that it is a very simple way. If not, you will be relying on oil cooling only (like lots of other turbos)
I was looking back through the thread to check how you have routed the water cooling for the turbo.
From what I can see you have come off the thermostat housing, gone though the turbo, then plumbed back into where the original line was going from the thermostat housing.
I attach the drawing of how the Safari turbo gets cooled. As far as I can see, you have to go either side of the flow through the thermostat to get flow through the turbo.
I'm racking my brains to tell whether your way will flow or not?!?!? I'm thinking that your way will, and that it is a very simple way. If not, you will be relying on oil cooling only (like lots of other turbos)
- Thread starter
- #87
Hey TRD - any updates? Have you sorted the fuelling issues?
I was looking back through the thread to check how you have routed the water cooling for the turbo.
From what I can see you have come off the thermostat housing, gone though the turbo, then plumbed back into where the original line was going from the thermostat housing.
I attach the drawing of how the Safari turbo gets cooled. As far as I can see, you have to go either side of the flow through the thermostat to get flow through the turbo.
I'm racking my brains to tell whether your way will flow or not?!?!? I'm thinking that your way will, and that it is a very simple way. If not, you will be relying on oil cooling only (like lots of other turbos)
thank you for the information i will do it asap
this is the only update
I replaced the fuel solenoid
new fuel pressure regulator
i moved the MAF sensor. but still lean
- Thread starter
- #88
Landthank where did you found this information?
can u sell me a copy?
I need the whole ecu pinout I have paypal to pay for it, please let me know asap thank you!
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The problem is most likely a throttle % issue that must be overcome. Your truck won't go into open loop untill a certain throttle position is reached. Untill then the ECM doesn't care what psi you're making, it will just stay stoich (14.7/1 afr) based on O2 readings, that is why you got good results disconnecting your o2 sensors, limp mode=open loop throttle posion mode or the ECM dumps fuel soley based on MAF, not o2's. The best way to fix it is a wide open thottle boost control switch. It leaves your wastgate open untill it sees WOT. Basicly it makes sure you are releasing all boost untill the ECM can dump fuel, then it closes the wastegate and you boost safely. I have not seen or heard of any stock ECM that controls open and closed loop fueling based on manifold pressure. They all use throttle position. It is a big issue when upgrading a stock turbo car to a big aftermarket turbo, ask me how I know. Quick fix is you can disconect o2's, put a piggy back unit on and tune using a secondary MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensor(boost /psi sensor). Pulling fuel when not boosting to get better cruising mpg (trying to get the ECM back to stoich even though it is in limp mode) and then adding fuel (or zero'd out) when boosting and just let the ECM do its thing based on its own MAF sensor readings. This is how we got good mpg using big fuel pumps and double size fuel injectors. Cause using those with a stock ECM you're going to get way to much fuel untill you are boosting. I always preferred to go over size on fuel stuff and then pull injector pulse with a piggyback to get the AFR I was looking for.
I got this info out of the FSM. It might also be in the EWD for the trucks. I'd just buy the manuals, especially since the truck is behaving weird.
He's not boosting much more than a SC. Historically these trucks have no issues fueling the engines at this air flow. I still feel that there is a problem in his system.
- Thread starter
- #92
Thanks man I'm 100% igree with you! I found that last night I have full boost 5.5psi at 2500 rpm no even 1/4 of the full trottle I don't wanna said my truck is super fast but it is faster than my 04 4runner v6 and I think is because my intercooler piping is very short on leng and dosent drop any pressure so is good setup
I can ease cruising at lower than 2500rpm but if I'm driving on freeway the rpm is close to 2700 and like I said my turbo charge 5.5psi so fast with no even 1/4 of the trottle now I can easy adjust that problem with my safc because the safc works with the rpm signal so I can start adjusting the af at 2500 rpm or any rpm but the problem now is how can I identificate the pins for the ecu?
- Thread starter
- #93
I'm wrong sc charge faster than turbo
Where can I buy the book landtank?
Where can I buy the book landtank?
there is a toll free number I think or you could go to the dealer.
also were is the boost gauge attached to?
- Thread starter
- #95
Right now is together with the vacum line on my fpr
I did installed in differents vacum lines after the trottlebody 2
- Thread starter
- #96
ok guys here is the ECM for my 95!!!!
I'm not familar with wiring a SAFC so I'm no help there, but what I can tell you is that your problem with too much boost and not enough throttle is a PITA. We call it PTB, or part throttle boost. I would let the truck be in limp/safe mode and tune it from there. That way you will not be fighting with the ECM trying to use the o2 sensors to make it stoich. It is MUCH easier to tune when the ECM it is just sending "X" amount of fuel based on air flow and RPM. If not the ECM will just pull fuel out to get it back stoich and you will get lean spikes, very bad! When in safe mode the ECM is just drawing fuel requirements from a virtual table in its programming making tuning a breeze. Does safe mode screw with the auto trans programming on these 80's? I only turbo'd stick shifts so we didn't need to worry if the ECM was in safe mode.
As to the SC having enough fuel when boosting, well even though the psi might be the same, the VOLUME of air is going to be much more in an intercooled turbo. I've had this discussion about turbo size, psi and power. A larger turbo will produce the same power at a lower psi due to volume of air it is pushing. On my my small stock turbo on my car I was getting 210whp @ 14psi, but on the large 50 trim, I was pushing over 250whp @ 14psi. Also the intercooler makes the air denser increasing volume in the combustion chamber. He should be running leaner @ WOT at the same psi with the intercooled turbo than the non cooled SC. And be making more power. Make sure you're MAF is as close to the throttle body as possible. You want your ECM, even in safe mode, reading everything as close to identical to the intake manifold as possible.
As to the SC having enough fuel when boosting, well even though the psi might be the same, the VOLUME of air is going to be much more in an intercooled turbo. I've had this discussion about turbo size, psi and power. A larger turbo will produce the same power at a lower psi due to volume of air it is pushing. On my my small stock turbo on my car I was getting 210whp @ 14psi, but on the large 50 trim, I was pushing over 250whp @ 14psi. Also the intercooler makes the air denser increasing volume in the combustion chamber. He should be running leaner @ WOT at the same psi with the intercooled turbo than the non cooled SC. And be making more power. Make sure you're MAF is as close to the throttle body as possible. You want your ECM, even in safe mode, reading everything as close to identical to the intake manifold as possible.
- Thread starter
- #98
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
after hours and hours trying to understand my chilton book and some other information i installed the SAFC and i can control my AF much better now is not 14.7 all the time and if you have a turbo or SC you better buy a wideband because every LC is different i bet some people here are running lean if you don't believe me
i will start doing my tune some time tomorrow i may take some videos and pics.
Oh i got a new turbo heat shield or whatever is call plus i connect the waste gate to my donw pipe
and i installed the EGT i know realy bad welding but i still learning
after hours and hours trying to understand my chilton book and some other information i installed the SAFC and i can control my AF much better now is not 14.7 all the time and if you have a turbo or SC you better buy a wideband because every LC is different i bet some people here are running lean if you don't believe me
i will start doing my tune some time tomorrow i may take some videos and pics.
Oh i got a new turbo heat shield or whatever is call plus i connect the waste gate to my donw pipe
and i installed the EGT i know realy bad welding but i still learning
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Nice! Good to know a SAFC can be used. You will have to post a write up on wiring up the unit. These could easily benifit a N/A motor as well if you want to get a bit more power and mpg's. And used units are pretty cheap on ebay.
