My new 80 project... (3 Viewers)

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Well I took it out for a test drive tonight and noticed a few things. First I noticed the pedal is still hard as a rock unless I pump it a few times quick to build pressure then it feels more normal. After I change the front rotors and pads and bleed it, should it start to feel normal again?

Since I have cleaned my engine I have noticed that the valve cover gasket is leaking for sure. I have noticed that there is what appears to be oil on the bell housing below the no.5 and no.6 exhaust manifolds. Would that also be the valve cover gasket leaking around the no. 6 exhaust manifold?

These are the pictures of the valve cover gasket area and no. 2 bank of manifolds. Sorry they are sideways.

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And the second thing I noticed is when I crawled under it when it was good and warm I am leaking oil on the underside at all the normal places, but it seems more than a drip or three. It seems to be producing oil almost. The bottom of the oil pan from where the plug is is clean and dry except for one small area on the passenger side. It seems to be coming from the rear main much worse and from the passenger side near the back of the block.

The valve cover leak is worst on the back of the block, could that be trickling down and making it worse on that side of the engine? Also, how invovled would the rear main be to change and if I changed it or had it done, are the pan arches and oil pan gaskets easy to do at the same time?

A few pictures...

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Well I have gotten new front calipers that will go on tonight with new pads. I also placed an order with Onur for new VC gasket, new plug wires, new plugs, spark plug gaskets, door courtesy switches for rear doors, blinker/hazard relay, throttle body gasket, and a few other little things.

So tonight is new calipers up front and bleed the brakes then the VC gasket next week. Wish me luck.
 
Well I have good brake pedal feel now after new calipers and rotors and a good bleed. The old fluid was nasty. So I have a feeling that it hadn't been drained in a while. I am going to drive it for a bit then re drain it to be safe and because I am anal.

I am getting an ARB winch bumper this weekend hopefully, if the guy I want to buy it from comes through. I am also waiting on the parts from Onur and then I am off to the races fixing my top end.
 
I also noticed this weekend that on the passenger side frame roughly between the front door and back of the wheel well there is this nifty inscribed 'tattoo'. I'm sure it has been noticed before, but I thought it was pretty cool looking.

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Topped off the front knuckles. They haven't been leaking and the grease looked really good actually. So I'm glad they're in good condition. Also lubed all the chassis points as well.

Started shampooing and cleaning the interior carpets tonight too to get rid of the funky smell in the cruiser.

All my parts from Onur shipped today so that's my next major thing to do. I'm pretty excited to get the VC gasket and all knocked out.
 
mjl132 said:
Topped off the front knuckles. They haven't been leaking and the grease looked really good actually. So I'm glad they're in good condition. Also lubed all the chassis points as well.

Started shampooing and cleaning the interior carpets tonight too to get rid of the funky smell in the cruiser.

All my parts from Onur shipped today so that's my next major thing to do. I'm pretty excited to get the VC gasket and all knocked out.
Click to expand...

Which chassis points?
 
I suppose I should have been clearer. The FSM refers to them as 'chassis components' but it's the drive shafts.
 
mjl132 said:
I suppose I should have been clearer. The FSM refers to them as 'chassis components' but it's the drive shafts.
Click to expand...

Are there other points I should have lubed up as well?
 
I tend to lube anything with a nipple.
 
Are there any other nipples I can lube, on my land cruiser of course.
 
Serious issue here. I'm ready to start the drawers but. Ow my interior lights in the back are staying on. I switched out both rear courtesy switches with new ones and held both all the way in with a buddy of mine. The fuse is good.

What else could it be?
 
Are the door lights staying on too?
If not ull the dome and see if it's shorted to the roof, that what was going on with mine.
 
The door lights are staying on. I'll have to trace the wires I suppose.
 
Success on the doors. For those that don't know the rear door courtesy switch is integrated into the top hatch mechanism for opening and closing the hatch. So if you're striker on the bottom hatch is misaligned it causes the door to 'stay' open.

So I wasted $28 on two new switches but it didn't seem open on the back until I took it all apart and figured it out.

Now onto the blinkers and hazards not working.
 
Dash taken apart and hazard switch reconnected. So now all the blinkers and hazards work.

Now I can begin my shelves after dinner.
 
Sweet.. Goodwork.. I'm looking forward to seeing your drawers.


Wait.. What?
 
I said shelves for some reason and meant drawers. Been a long day.
 
Well last night I decided today was the day to start my VC gasket. So I went through my FSM today and printed all of the applicable pages and began. All went pretty smooth except I broke one tab on a wiring harness, but I'm gonna super glue that. So no biggie. My engine is also pretty nasty from the PO. I pulled the plugs tonight and stopped. Tomorrow I take off the cover and finish up.

I will admit that I had nightmares last night I'd pull no 6 plug and find it steam cleaned or ruined. But they all looked the same. Also the original plug wires were still there. A few pics below.



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You guys think the plugs all look normal, considering the age and all? No reason to worry about HG issues I would think...

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