My LC is really slow going uphill

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I have the same problem. 2001 LX 4 Speed with 250k. It's been perfectly maintained. Drives awesome (slow), but theres this one hill, super steep and I've driven a few cars (especially turbos) that don't like it.

Funny thing is mine does the same thing. 2100-2200 RPM you can have it floored but it's not passing that.


^^^^^ In what gear? On the face of it....it hardly seems possible that your transmission will not shift down to a gear that will allow mechanical advantage enough to achieve engine rpm greater than 2200.

I'm not saying it isn't so, just have a hard time accepting it. But that is based on my vehicle and how it runs.
 
^^^^^ In what gear? On the face of it....it hardly seems possible that your transmission will not shift down to a gear that will allow mechanical advantage enough to achieve engine rpm greater than 2200.

I'm not saying it isn't so, just have a hard time accepting it. But that is based on my vehicle and how it runs.

Everywhere else it's fine. No problem whatsoever. It's just when I turn that corner and start to go up that hill I'm capped. Then the ground starts to level out and I feel that power band coming around. Honestly I'm not sure what grear but I'll pay attention next time
 
Do you know when your fuel filter was changed last?
Seems like this is a maximum fuel flow situation, which you might not be getting. As soon as you get over the crest max fuel flow is no longer required and you feel things going back to normal.
The transmission not kicking into a lower gear also does not sound correct.
Do you have throttle by wire? Any way to check if the butterfly (throttle valve) is fully opening?
 
You can spend months wondering where a few horses have escaped and I think there is no wrong answer here. Fuel filters, air filters, exhaust, will all let you regain some of them. Ultimately, these are heavy trucks and altitude will make them sluggish so I don’t think the issue is abnormal at all (in addition to larger than stock tires).

I would say turn the over drive off, stick it third gear and get some momentum before you shift back down and you’ll be in business.

For curiosity, what kind of fuel mileage are you getting?
 
If youve checked all the basics... Check your timing belt. 5years ago i bought a toyota 4runner (2002 3rd gen 3.4). I knew something wasnt right when i bought it. (Got a good deal). No check eng lights, no abnormal indications at all. I even bought a obd2 bluetooth reader and nothing weird popped up. I proceeded to change the fuel filter, plugs/wires, maf sensor... Nothing helped... All the other 4runners were passing my driving up the tahoe mountains while i was pegged... It was fine below 30-40mph... But passing power was non existent... (Dump trucks could pass me easily on a highway slight incline)... I knew sonething wasnt right.
Turns out that the timing belt had slipped a few teeth causing all of this.
Toyota 3.4's and the 4.7 (non vvti's) are non interference engines... So if the belts slip or break--catastrophic damage will not follow... Your either be dead on the side of the road or experiencing a truck that is screaming up the hills sounding redlined--- but simply not performing under any real load....
With mine what had likely caused this was a small antifreeze leak that wept onto the timing belt (which was old and overdue for a change)...Belt was slippery... Tensioner was probably already worn/max'ed, then slippyslip
I hope your trucks fine... Gage it off a friends with similar mods before you think too extremely... But be prepared to pay (or work your butt off) performing baseline maintenance and also "while your in there while its disassembled maintenance"
Hats off to the earlier 100series for the non interference engine. Problems like this would be engine killers... Id rather go slow in my landcrusher than drive a heavy rig like it quickly. I dont tow so the extra vvti power isnt needed.
 
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^^^^^^^^^

@TheDan,

That is an interesting possibility.

If other diagnostics check out...it would certainly be worth looking into.
 
Mine does the same, you just have to select your gears or turn-off over drive and work the RPM accordingly to get the desired speed to the climb - that's how I do it.
 
There have been instances of coil packs going bad without sending a "check engine" code. You might want to test your coils and sparkplugs, to verify ignition. At the same time, a compression test isn't a bad idea. Might take a few hours, so I hope I'm not sending you down a rabbit hole!
 
Mine does the same, you just have to select your gears or turn-off over drive and work the RPM accordingly to get the desired speed to the climb - that's how I do it.

I dont understand, no matter the grade (incline), if I am going 40+ and floor it, my 100 will downshift and be revving3,500+ if yours is not, there is something wrong. I have been all over CO up and down many passes and gave her hell and she kept cruising along fine, slow, but reved high when demanded

If yours isnt, there is something wrong and this is not normal behavior.
 
Wasn't there someone recently who had a somewhat similar issue and it just turned out to be something like the accelerator cable loosening so that it actually wasn't getting truly floored. i would definitely check simple stuff first.
 
I always turn OD off when climbing a steep grade and haven't had any problems keeping up with traffic in my fully loaded and armored 2000 4spd.
 
i would try the easy/free stuff first.

when was the last time your maf sensor was cleaned? maybe pull that out and give it a few sprays of maf cleaner.

also check your air filter. I know it sounds stupid but you could have an extremely dirt filter.

There are a lot of good opinions in here, hopefully one of them works and you're back on the road strong.
 
Wasn't there someone recently who had a somewhat similar issue and it just turned out to be something like the accelerator cable loosening so that it actually wasn't getting truly floored. i would definitely check simple stuff first.

I had this problem and it turned out to be my throttle cable being really, really loose. I know we have electronic idle but tightening that cable did it for me. I don't know the physics behind it.
 
I had this problem and it turned out to be my throttle cable being really, really loose. I know we have electronic idle but tightening that cable did it for me. I don't know the physics behind it.
Thanks for confirming that I wasn't crazy. It sounded like a similar problem, or no?
 
Thanks for confirming that I wasn't crazy. It sounded like a similar problem, or no?
Yes. It was as if the cruiser was driving up hill towing 50 tons and was not down shifting.
 
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This sounds right
I live in Golden CO and have a 99 with 225k
I always keep the power button pushed but it will go 75 mph all the up from Denver to the top of Vail pass
You need to be aggressive and turn overdrive off once in a while so it stays on the power a bit
Maybe 3200 rpms tops

If you don't it will be sluggish and not able to downshift or willing to keep up speed
 
@edwardmatt83 so did you resolve this?

Not yet - Still deciding if I should take it in to get looked at or start trying to fix it. There are no codes, no check engine light. I'll probably start by cleaning the MAF sensor and changing the air filter.

From what it sounds like - I should be able to cruise up Parley's at 75mph no problem.

Anyone know how I can check the throttle cable?

How would I check the fuel pump to know it was working properly?
 
From what it sounds like - I should be able to cruise up Parley's at 75mph no problem.

I have never been up Parleys but I think its alot to expect to maintain 75 going up a mtn pass in a 100 with oversized tires and the 4 speed.
Regardless your transmission should be downshifting
 

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