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The kit will eliminate this fuse isssue. However, as an emergency use for starting the vehicle, you can run a fused wire from the battery straight to relay slot "E", as pictured in the first post. This will get you cranked up but take it out when not running due to battery drainage.
I would try slot "F" if you are using my picture as slot reference.
...pun intended LOL), soldered the connecting pins/blades to hopefully eliminate vibration and subsequent shorting... thinking the problem was the interface between the two blades, only to have the engine die once again after a few miles further down highway 395.
I didn't know you were connecting to B, it should be A to start with. Can you try connecting the kit straight to the battery instead of A or B?So, after running medtro's bypass kit it all worked great. Until yesterday. Backstory: Years ago the A/B EFI fuse location melted where I only had the means of connecting to the "B" side. But, yesterday while en route to Death Valley, the engine died. I was able to get it going again by increasing the friction holding the bypass' blade into the B side of the fuse slot by utilizing a female pin adapter. But that only lasted a few miles when the engine died once again. I eventually, because I had no tricks left in my proverbial bag of tricks (it happened yesterday on Halloween of course
I couldn't resurrect it so had to get it towed home. I'm guessing, this time, the short has occurred on the bottom side of the fuse box at the A/B fuse link/connector/? interface.
It will be a while before I have time to deal with it...but presumably will have to swap in a new fuse box. Oy vey.
I haven't searched yet, as I swapped the spressoWAGON for the LBZ Duramax and am currently camped out near Bishop for a week of hiking, etc., instead of being with my buddies in Death Valley, but wondering if there is a better more protected/longer lasting solution to this Toyota shortcoming than swapping in another OEM fuse box when "we" and I already know its problematic.
I thought you got out of 100 series ownership 6-7 years ago? Apparently I wasn’t paying attention!
So i just had this issue and found this post. The jumper wire allowed it to start. I found the "A" terminal was black and corroded. I cleaned it up and for now it is working. I am curious if the relay mod will fix this problem as the "A" Terminal is the power source right?
You can power the kit from the battery, this will avoid issue from "A" terminal.
Yes, same symptom. However if you do the battery to "F" test, it will tell you that you have a different problem.
You don't need a fuse but I would add a 20A fuse. I would use 10 AWG wire for driving such a long time. Leave it connected once started, make sure it is securely connected otherwise the engine will stall. Disconnect the jumper from the battery when engine is not running to prevent battery from draining. Bring picks or small screw drivers for removing stubborn relay.
