Build My First Land Cruiser - Cdn šŸ BJ60 "Wabi Sabi"

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Eurasiaoverland said:
Yes, apologies, my bad. I iniitally mis-read your post and thought they were saying it makes a diffrence on axle stands vs. on the wheels which made me question it. Then had a confused moment before mentally drawing your helpful diagram in my head.

When I torqued mine up (axles suspended from a supported chassis - only becuase the hubs weren't on) I felt as I approached the 92 Nm or whatever it is that I could feel the bolts stretching, or perhaps the washers digging into the paint on the U-bolt plate.

A good thing this was caught - and good that the U-bolt threads always rust to stop the nuts from dropping off completely.
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No kidding, was a right scare for me when i found out.

And good point, they did ask if i wanted any of the old parts back, which I declined due to trusting their work (I know the tech that worked on my truck on a personal level), and not wanting a bunch of heavy metal "paper weights" around the house. But might be nice to have a hub back to clean up an a shop/office ornament.
 
I should explain what I mean on the hubs. Here is an original (R) and new AISIN hub (L).
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The original has a separate clutch retaining ring with a bronze inner surface for the clutch hub to run in. The new hub has a one piece casting which has no bronze surface and there is a cheapo square ended snap ring which I found impossible (with circlip or snap ring pliers) to remove. So it's a cheaper component designed not to be serviced. Also, out of the box, the dials were stiffer to turn than my original 500+ kkm hubs. I transferred my original dials to the new hubs as they have the raised lugs and are easier to turn.

I got them from Partsouq and am confident they are not Chinese knockoffs. Don't get me wrong, they are still decent parts, but I'd be asking for the originals which with a new spring you can rebuild very easily.
 
Eurasiaoverland said:
I should explain what I mean on the hubs. Here is an original (R) and new AISIN hub (L).
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Well, that makes sense!

I honestly thought the AISIN ones were just re-fabs of the originals! Had no idea.

To be fair, the tech called me and searched for new springs but said he couldn't source any, which I'm sure if you look hard enough, you can find from the Middle East. I was under the impression they were the same build, lesson learned.

Thanks!
 
PapaGiamati said:
Well, that makes sense!

I honestly thought the AISIN ones were just re-fabs of the originals! Had no idea.

To be fair, the tech called me and searched for new springs but said he couldn't source any, which I'm sure if you look hard enough, you can find from the Middle East. I was under the impression they were the same build, lesson learned.

Thanks!
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Yeah, same. I was disappointed to find the above. I'm keeping an eye open for good used originals, though they are thin on the ground.
 
Small update,

Settling well into the new environment in Oregon. My business partner drives a T100 so we get to be the ā€œcool kids on the block infront of the officeā€
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View from the office! :bounce:
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Iā€™m leaving my mark on my parking stall infront of my apartment LOL :rofl:
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Driving over the Hood mtn pass
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I noticed your glow plug question in another thread and didn't want to hijack.
Here is a link I used to read into the different options Toyota provided over the years and on different engines:

lostmarbles

Thread 'Which plugs should I be running - B, 2B, 3B, H and 2H diesels'

Glowplug selection seems to be a common issue amongst many owners of classic indirect-injection diesel landcruisers.

While glow plug manufacturers/distributors put out "selection catalogs", most of these catalogs have accumulated numerous errors.

So as a solution, I've tried to put together an alternative selection method as a trial.

Models affected:
BJ40, BJ41, BJ42, BJ43, BJ44, BJ45, BJ46 (running B, 2B or 3B engines depending on the model)
BJ60 (running the 3B engine)
BJ70, BJ73, BJ75 (running the 3B engine)
HJ45, HJ47 (running the H or 2H engine respectively)...
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I went from no start below 8 cĀ° to always start in half a crank with the correct and working plugs šŸ„³
 
cruiser86 said:
I noticed your glow plug question in another thread and didn't want to hijack.
Here is a link I used to read into the different options Toyota provided over the years and on different engines:

lostmarbles

Thread 'Which plugs should I be running - B, 2B, 3B, H and 2H diesels'

Glowplug selection seems to be a common issue amongst many owners of classic indirect-injection diesel landcruisers.

While glow plug manufacturers/distributors put out "selection catalogs", most of these catalogs have accumulated numerous errors.

So as a solution, I've tried to put together an alternative selection method as a trial.

Models affected:
BJ40, BJ41, BJ42, BJ43, BJ44, BJ45, BJ46 (running B, 2B or 3B engines depending on the model)
BJ60 (running the 3B engine)
BJ70, BJ73, BJ75 (running the 3B engine)
HJ45, HJ47 (running the H or 2H engine respectively)...
  • Like
  • Love

I went from no start below 8 cĀ° to always start in half a crank with the correct and working plugs šŸ„³
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stunning! Thank you!

I suspect it may be my outdated "superglow system" but then again i have not tested the resistance on the components to see if my second stage (post glow) resistor is in working order.
 
Just got back from Japan, sadly didnā€™t really find any unique Land Cruiser parts (although I wasnā€™t looking hard and my friends are not car people so it wasnā€™t built into the trip.)

I did see x3 60 series! Two 60s and one 62. Unsure of the engines on them all.

Here are some pics.

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Love the USDM cars in Japan.

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Also finally got around to cleaning up and mounting the rear hubcaps that @mcmlxxxv graciously gave me!

I left them unfinished as I liked the polished but patinaā€™d look about them. I didnā€™t take an picture after cleaning them off with a magic eraser, which really brought out the shine. Also couldnā€™t really figure out the best way to repaint the black centre ring without too many hours of meticulous masking!

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On todayā€™s episode of Adamā€™s amateur hour, he replaces a generic o-ring with the proper Toyota one to avoid losing his clutch!

Whoops. When I cleaned the clutch master cylinder reservoir the first time, I had the great idea to replace the o-ring under the reservoir with a generic o-ring. It didnā€™t fit right and the slow leak (over the course of 6 months) finally hit the bottom of the reservoir. I only noticed cause on my drive to work today I noticed how quickly/low the clutch was engaging with the pedal.

Cleaned, bled, and the proper o-ring is back! Surprising how nasty the fluid was again. I think all my hydraulic lines are just old and crusty.

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How I found my reservoir today at work.

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Guess which one is right and which is wrongā€¦

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Well wrong again!
That fluid loss in the clutch was due to a failing master cylinder.

Got one from Canada shipped to the US, drained the mass amounts of DOT 3 fluid from the booster and put it all back together. Fun little project. And I re-greased the pin holding the clutch pedal to the booster so now it doesnā€™t squeak anymore. What a relief!

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Interesting that they grind the TEQ logo off the rebuilt ones.

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The old one and the wild amount of fluid that I had to pour out of the booster.
 
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