Builds My first 80 Series (1 Viewer)

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Leaking brake caliper or axle seal leak?

 
Decided it was time to run power to the passenger rear quarter panel and install a fuse box as I’m running several accessories coming up. A friend used a brake to make a panel to bolt in the factory holes just behind the back seat. Purchased a Blue Sea 6 circuit panel. Didn’t want to take a chance on burning the rig down with some unknown brand quality.
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I stumbled on the injectors on eBay. Plug and play fit. When I built my Isuzu Trooper I upgraded the injectors and found the engine much more pleasurable to drive. It seemed like the ecu technology of the day was a lot better than the injector technology of the day. New injectors made it run so much better. So, going to try it on the 80.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Best-Upgrade-Brand-New-Flow-Matched-Fuel-Injector-Set-12-Hole/301838924984?epid=1048187194&fits=Year:1997|Model:Land+Cruiser&hash=item4647007cb8:g:xaMAAOSwbbdbIpg-:sc:USPSFirstClass!59718!US!-1&thm=10
Did you have any feedback on these?
 
Panel installed and I cut some old hose I had lying around to protect the wires from chasing. Even if you don’t add anything in the back, there is one factory loom that comes out under the seatbelt behind the passenger rear door that can get cut on this metal it exits.
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Running wire from the back of the vehicle to the front is a bit of a chore. Neatness buys real estate with space. Use lots of zip ties. I couldn’t do this without my little helper.
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For anyone who has added power in the back quarter panel and needed to run power to your rear bumper for a camp light like I have, where did you pull the wire through the body?
 
I originally was thinking that maybe one of those rear drains might be a good place to route wire. But after I got into it, I just took the wire down the camp light on the swing out zip tying it to the arm on the driver side. I then put it through some conduit I zip tied along the wiring harness that goes under the tailgate across the back to the passenger side where it goes in the body with a grommet since that was really close to my new fuse box in the back. I attached it there and all is well.
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Started getting a noise when putting it into drive sounding like a clank from the rear driveline. Had the driveshaft rechecked and was told it’s fine but I do feel a little spline play I don’t think should be there. Wondering if I should just get a new driveshaft or maybe have the splines replaced with a longer travel one.

I had another diff that’s real tight/lower mileage so decided to swap it out.
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Since fighting this engine from the beginning, the cam regrinds failed. Back to the drawing board with a different profile that’s hopefully compatible with the stock computer. Wrapped up measurements this week and ordering shims.
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While waiting for shims, I decided to replace the compressor shaft bearing that was making some noise. Smooth as butter now as they say….
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Found a NSK bearing that worked. 27ft/lbs for the compressor to block torque and 10ft/lbs for the clutch bolt.
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Engine to be updated on it’s thread.
 
While waiting for parts I decided to finish up the seat heaters. This link was helpful for wiring diagrams.
Started with removing the four 14mm bolts and putting the seat upside down on a work surface. Remove 2 bolts from the back panel and slide down to unclip. Use a trim puller to gently remove the 2 plastic clips from the back of the bottom cushion. Purchased 2 repair wire terminals to tie into the factory harness along with switches.
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Then the fun job of removing hog rings begins. Seat heater element is taped down on foam. Punch/cut holes carefully in seat heater to line up with where the hog rings were. In this case I decided to use zip ties for reassembling. Run cable out the bottom and repeat on other cushion.
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Bottom seat cushion requires removing 4 bolts holding cushion down and 3 screws on each side cover. Cushion torque is incorrect in 97 FSM. It’s 15 ft/lbs. Cotter pin tool is helpful to reinstall corner plastic retainer. Bottom cushion also has a hole pre punched that’s perfect for running the cable. It’s possible to pull the corner and not the switch side to tuck heater element inside. I used a tap for the ground. Note: heated seat ground is not a chassis ground.
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One other note about heated seat elements, they came with an extra set of adhesive strips for the top and bottom. I chose not to use them as they made noise. Reinstalled and seat heat works now!
 
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I started installing the supercharger and trying to figure out details, upgrades and of course waiting on parts at:

While waiting on that stuff started working on my list of to do's which included finally upgrading the head unit to bring this truck into the 21st century. Pretty sure the factory amplifiers were giving up the ghost. Went with a JBL Legend. Gotta wire the GPS and microphone. Trying to decide where to put the microphone as I typically like to have it in the overhead console so passengers can easily be part of calls but last time I tried this was in my hundy and it picked up noise so had to relocate it to the cluster.
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I had a strange thing going on while testing the wiring on the unit. I had a line noise that I ended up tracing down to the battery charger I have hooked up under hood. Weird, never seen that before.
 

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