OK here are the pics
My Desmog Thread (7 Viewers)
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The pics look good (the visible stuff).
If you're at 10K feet, it would be good to make sure there is plenty of base advance. If the HAC stuff is left hooked up during the adjustment, set the base timing to 18-20*btdc.
Also at 10K, it is pushing the upper limit of HAC capability. You may need to adjust in (lean) the idle mixture yourself. It might be alittle too rich for a healthy idle. Oh, and you can adjust the idle speed screw to whatever you need it to be. That's why it's adjustable, so you can set it where it works for you.
If you're at 10K feet, it would be good to make sure there is plenty of base advance. If the HAC stuff is left hooked up during the adjustment, set the base timing to 18-20*btdc.
Also at 10K, it is pushing the upper limit of HAC capability. You may need to adjust in (lean) the idle mixture yourself. It might be alittle too rich for a healthy idle. Oh, and you can adjust the idle speed screw to whatever you need it to be. That's why it's adjustable, so you can set it where it works for you.
Unhook the Primary?
So does that mean that I need to unhook the primary vacuum on the dissy when setting the timing while leaving the HAC one in place? Sorry if these are simple questions. Also I am using all 3 prongs on the gas filter is that correct? 1 is the Primary HAC coming off the dissy 1 is coming off the passenger side VAC and the other 1 is coming off the bottom of the 4 pronges on the driverside HAC. Thanks for all your help Jim!
So does that mean that I need to unhook the primary vacuum on the dissy when setting the timing while leaving the HAC one in place? Sorry if these are simple questions. Also I am using all 3 prongs on the gas filter is that correct? 1 is the Primary HAC coming off the dissy 1 is coming off the passenger side VAC and the other 1 is coming off the bottom of the 4 pronges on the driverside HAC. Thanks for all your help Jim!
Figured the timing out but still wondering on the gas filter if anyone can help.
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Best to set the timing w/ the primary vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.
Gas filter (manifold vacuum) should connect to:
- dissy cap ventilation valve.
- to check valve and then to tee fitting, one leg to lower fitting on HAC valve, other leg to dissy advance.
Gas filter (manifold vacuum) should connect to:
- dissy cap ventilation valve.
- to check valve and then to tee fitting, one leg to lower fitting on HAC valve, other leg to dissy advance.
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Jim...sent you a couple emails. Looking to get your air rail plugs, nylon caps for ac and carb, etc. already have idler pulley and egr block plate with gasket on order.
How much is a full desmog package from Jim C? Meaning all parts needed to do the job, then put in the dizzy & carb work.......PLEASE kind SIR
well i have been over both drawings and this thread countless times but my smog pump failure is pushing me to do it this weekend rather than waiting and taking it slow.... I am also going to just desmog with Aisin carb and worry about a rebuild/recurve on it and dizzy later as it is my daily driver and dont have one of each to send to JimC.
Here are my assumptions based on what I read and what I THINK I UNDERSTOOD....please correct me.
1. Remove smog pump and install idler pulley replacement.
2. Remove EGR modulator and cooler...block cooler opening with EGR Block off plate and gasket.
3. Block other pipe of EGR with welded plug or some have used rubber expansion plug temporarily.
4. Use 26mm cane cap or chair cap to close off air cleaner port.
5. Remove air rail and plug with JimC allen head plugs or buy 1/4NPT Pipe Plugs to do it. (Prefer JimC if I get hold of him in time). If left open will just exhaust into engine bay...no harm.
6. Remove pipe off inner fender well and plug hose under master cylinder with large bolt and hose clamp if not able to weld or otherwise plug pipe.
7. Cap all vacuum ports on carb except one used for dizzy vacuum advance, ac idle up, and bvsv1
8. If I remove bracket holding Fuel Decel Cut off..then will need to ground it manually to fender or something.
9. Dizzy vent port to one of the three prongs left open on GAS FILTER MANIFOLD...cap other two with nipple caps. Size????
10. Inner port is normally for Dizzy Vacuum Advance; Outer is for HAC if being used. IF not used put outer HAC port to atmosphere on air cleaner assembly.
11. To get air rail off easier...sharp chisel off tube on top nut...then short 17mm to wring off top nut....then 17mm mid socket to remove entire fitting.
12. 7* advance is stock setting on dizzy, remove vacuum advance from carb and plug end when setting baseline.
Here are some considerations:
- I am at sea level and will primarily offroad in Western NC and North Georgia...so up to 5000 feet max so planning on keeping my HAC installed.
- do I reverse my dizzy lines so that my vacuum advance goes to the former HAC and run the HAC to the primary advance port instead since I wont have a dizzy recurve yet? Or leave it stock since I am running HAC fully and see how she runs?
- still not understanding PCV thing as some block it with expansion plug on EGR side and others were doing different. Can someone describe in good detail what to do with both sides that wont involve welding...as I dont weld and may not be able to get that done on same day.
- if I dont get JimC kit in time....I need to buy 6x 1/4" NPT Pipe Plugs and 1x3/4" Pipe Cap along with 2x rubber expansion plugs (NAPA 600-4001, 600-4002), walking cane cap in 26mm size, some hose clamps and a large bolt to plug catalytic converter pipe/hose. What size and what is a source for the small nipple caps for Gas Filter and Carb ports?
What the hell have I missed or got wrong? I printed out both diagrams...also printed out Trappers pictures even though I realize he deleted his HAC.
Can I get this completely done in two days?
I am also installing a new manifold intake gasket...mine is leaking.
Before smog pump started whining she was running great....217,000 miles original motor...only thing done is new clutch and flywheel..couple carb rebuilds over years, new radiator...well, and 45 feet of blue silicone vacuum hose from McMaster Carr I am about to not need....but is already installed. So if anyone needs hose...let me know! LOL
Thanks for any comments or thoughts.
Here are my assumptions based on what I read and what I THINK I UNDERSTOOD....please correct me.
1. Remove smog pump and install idler pulley replacement.
2. Remove EGR modulator and cooler...block cooler opening with EGR Block off plate and gasket.
3. Block other pipe of EGR with welded plug or some have used rubber expansion plug temporarily.
4. Use 26mm cane cap or chair cap to close off air cleaner port.
5. Remove air rail and plug with JimC allen head plugs or buy 1/4NPT Pipe Plugs to do it. (Prefer JimC if I get hold of him in time). If left open will just exhaust into engine bay...no harm.
6. Remove pipe off inner fender well and plug hose under master cylinder with large bolt and hose clamp if not able to weld or otherwise plug pipe.
7. Cap all vacuum ports on carb except one used for dizzy vacuum advance, ac idle up, and bvsv1
8. If I remove bracket holding Fuel Decel Cut off..then will need to ground it manually to fender or something.
9. Dizzy vent port to one of the three prongs left open on GAS FILTER MANIFOLD...cap other two with nipple caps. Size????
10. Inner port is normally for Dizzy Vacuum Advance; Outer is for HAC if being used. IF not used put outer HAC port to atmosphere on air cleaner assembly.
11. To get air rail off easier...sharp chisel off tube on top nut...then short 17mm to wring off top nut....then 17mm mid socket to remove entire fitting.
12. 7* advance is stock setting on dizzy, remove vacuum advance from carb and plug end when setting baseline.
Here are some considerations:
- I am at sea level and will primarily offroad in Western NC and North Georgia...so up to 5000 feet max so planning on keeping my HAC installed.
- do I reverse my dizzy lines so that my vacuum advance goes to the former HAC and run the HAC to the primary advance port instead since I wont have a dizzy recurve yet? Or leave it stock since I am running HAC fully and see how she runs?
- still not understanding PCV thing as some block it with expansion plug on EGR side and others were doing different. Can someone describe in good detail what to do with both sides that wont involve welding...as I dont weld and may not be able to get that done on same day.
- if I dont get JimC kit in time....I need to buy 6x 1/4" NPT Pipe Plugs and 1x3/4" Pipe Cap along with 2x rubber expansion plugs (NAPA 600-4001, 600-4002), walking cane cap in 26mm size, some hose clamps and a large bolt to plug catalytic converter pipe/hose. What size and what is a source for the small nipple caps for Gas Filter and Carb ports?
What the hell have I missed or got wrong? I printed out both diagrams...also printed out Trappers pictures even though I realize he deleted his HAC.
Can I get this completely done in two days?
I am also installing a new manifold intake gasket...mine is leaking.
Before smog pump started whining she was running great....217,000 miles original motor...only thing done is new clutch and flywheel..couple carb rebuilds over years, new radiator...well, and 45 feet of blue silicone vacuum hose from McMaster Carr I am about to not need....but is already installed. So if anyone needs hose...let me know! LOL
Thanks for any comments or thoughts.
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Don't call me sir. That's for talking to my dad.
No pimping, just reporting the facts.
No package per se, but here's some stuff available mail order:
allen plugs for air rail and 79-80 intake manifold- $1/ea
allen plugs for BVSV's in t-stat housing- $1/ea
black nylon caps for AIR fittings on air cleaner $1/ea
air pump idler pulley assembly $99
clean & recurve dissy $100
Typical custom carb rebuild, rejet, desmog, test run- $299
Knowledgeable tech support- free w/ purchase.
Not available mail order:
EGR blockoff plate and gasket for exh manifold- make it yerself outta scrap 3/16 metal and a new Toyota gasket.
vacuum hose, vacuum caps, clamps, zip-ties, etc- get from FLAPS
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Some have reported using Epoxy putty for this application also. It is gasoline proof, but I am unsure of log term exposure to high temps?
Here's one that should be OK:
Putty, High Temp Epoxy: Grainger Industrial Supply
That's hillbilly (apologies to those who have big crutch tips sticking off the air filter). Somebody sells a black nylon cap that looks & fits right.
Definitely plug those w/ sumthin. The amount of exhaust fire that would come out those 6 ports on a long uphill grade would be dangerous.
If keeping the HAC, there will be 3 ports on the carb connected to the HAC valve. I do not recommend keeping HAC for a truck that lives east of the missisippi. There are mountain peaks here at 4500', but unlike colorado or wyoming, there are not entire plateaus @5000+ MSL.
To clarify, if decel vacuum switch is removed, it will be necessary to permanently ground the ground wire for the ICS.
To clarify, the dissy vent VCV is connected to manifold vacuum (gas filter).
Try using the inner (primary) vac advance fiting. If engine rattles under light acceleration @2000rpm, then switch to secondary (HAC) vac fitting. If it still rattles, back off ignition timing until rattle is no longer heard.
I can. Dunno if you can. Depends on how many rusty exhaust manifold fasteners break off. B'laster is your friend!
You will need some of that hose.
Some have reported using Epoxy putty for this application also. It is gasoline proof, but I am unsure of log term exposure to high temps?
Here's one that should be OK:
Putty, High Temp Epoxy: Grainger Industrial Supply
Will check it out for sure...
That's hillbilly (apologies to those who have big crutch tips sticking off the air filter). Somebody sells a black nylon cap that looks & fits right.
On order from that someone!
Definitely plug those w/ sumthin. The amount of exhaust fire that would come out those 6 ports on a long uphill grade would be dangerous.
On order from same someone above.
If keeping the HAC, there will be 3 ports on the carb connected to the HAC valve. I do not recommend keeping HAC for a truck that lives east of the missisippi. There are mountain peaks here at 4500', but unlike colorado or wyoming, there are not entire plateaus @5000+ MSL.
So, since our mountains are peaks rather than long hauls of continuous altitude driving...I can safely get rid of her? NICE! Will just run rich a little bit until I go back down other side of mountain or slide down backwards on one I am on.
To clarify, if decel vacuum switch is removed, it will be necessary to permanently ground the ground wire for the ICS.
Plan on keeping entire switch and all...was confused on why some would remove it or the bracket if it works fine as is. I am keeping it.
To clarify, the dissy vent VCV is connected to manifold vacuum (gas filter).
Yep, got it....one of three ports...blocking unused.
Try using the inner (primary) vac advance fiting. If engine rattles under light acceleration @2000rpm, then switch to secondary (HAC) vac fitting. If it still rattles, back off ignition timing until rattle is no longer heard.
Understood...thanks.
I can. Dunno if you can. Depends on how many rusty exhaust manifold fasteners break off. B'laster is your friend!
Gonna spray some on it night before but my engine has a good coat of oil on it from a valve cover gasket leak I am going to so as well. Think I am going to do manifold and valve cover gasket...then replace smog pump with idler pulley and see how far I get first day while soaking the air rail to make sure it comes off nice. Might be Fri-Sun job or wife will be driving me to work Monday.
You will need some of that hose.
10 feet enough you think? I got some left over from changing it all out a couple months ago but nothing longer than 3 or 4 feet.
Here's one that should be OK:
Putty, High Temp Epoxy: Grainger Industrial Supply
Will check it out for sure...
That's hillbilly (apologies to those who have big crutch tips sticking off the air filter). Somebody sells a black nylon cap that looks & fits right.
On order from that someone!
Definitely plug those w/ sumthin. The amount of exhaust fire that would come out those 6 ports on a long uphill grade would be dangerous.
On order from same someone above.
If keeping the HAC, there will be 3 ports on the carb connected to the HAC valve. I do not recommend keeping HAC for a truck that lives east of the missisippi. There are mountain peaks here at 4500', but unlike colorado or wyoming, there are not entire plateaus @5000+ MSL.
So, since our mountains are peaks rather than long hauls of continuous altitude driving...I can safely get rid of her? NICE! Will just run rich a little bit until I go back down other side of mountain or slide down backwards on one I am on.
To clarify, if decel vacuum switch is removed, it will be necessary to permanently ground the ground wire for the ICS.
Plan on keeping entire switch and all...was confused on why some would remove it or the bracket if it works fine as is. I am keeping it.
To clarify, the dissy vent VCV is connected to manifold vacuum (gas filter).
Yep, got it....one of three ports...blocking unused.
Try using the inner (primary) vac advance fiting. If engine rattles under light acceleration @2000rpm, then switch to secondary (HAC) vac fitting. If it still rattles, back off ignition timing until rattle is no longer heard.
Understood...thanks.
I can. Dunno if you can. Depends on how many rusty exhaust manifold fasteners break off. B'laster is your friend!
Gonna spray some on it night before but my engine has a good coat of oil on it from a valve cover gasket leak I am going to so as well. Think I am going to do manifold and valve cover gasket...then replace smog pump with idler pulley and see how far I get first day while soaking the air rail to make sure it comes off nice. Might be Fri-Sun job or wife will be driving me to work Monday.
You will need some of that hose.
10 feet enough you think? I got some left over from changing it all out a couple months ago but nothing longer than 3 or 4 feet.
wonderful info, my smog pump is locked up as well and i'm currently having to bypass my ps pump as a result. Think i found my next project!
Who you ordering the black nylon caps from? The person you refer to as .... That someone.
This thread is so helpfull, trying to figure out all this in my head, so I go in with some sort of knowledge. I will be ordering all necessary parts prior to take down of cruiser.
Thanks to everyone who has added tho this thread.
Now on to my death wobble issue.
This thread is so helpfull, trying to figure out all this in my head, so I go in with some sort of knowledge. I will be ordering all necessary parts prior to take down of cruiser.
Thanks to everyone who has added tho this thread.
Now on to my death wobble issue.
Holy crap, Just spent hours reading pretty much this whole thread, taking notes, printing pictures, making parts list, etc...... several hours (at work I must say). I think I just answered every question I had by reading all that. I'm sure I will look over again to set distributor correct when complete. I have a spare carb, but no spare dizzy. I may try and find a spare dizzy and just send everything to JIM and get everything sent back all at the same time. My mind is racing right now wishing I had everything in hand as I type so I could get cranking on this tomorrow.
This thread rocks...... now if we could just weed out all the useless stuff, like this post right here and sum it into a nice short read, EVEN BETTER!!!!!!
But many thanks to all that voluntered time and pics to keep this post going and helpful.
James G.
This thread rocks...... now if we could just weed out all the useless stuff, like this post right here and sum it into a nice short read, EVEN BETTER!!!!!!
But many thanks to all that voluntered time and pics to keep this post going and helpful.
James G.
Who you ordering the black nylon caps from? The person you refer to as .... That someone.
JimC...is THAT SOMEONE LOL
JimC...is THAT SOMEONE LOL
a picture of the discarded parts would rock... if anyone kept that s*** around that is.
Started today...found two bad freeze plugs...so that was some extra time taken.
1. Smog pump removal
2. Air rail removal
3. EGR removal
4. DESMOG
5. Manifold gasket replacement
6. Freeze plug replacement (two of them...one large on block and one small under carb)
7. Radiator hoses replaced
8. Crush washers and o rings replaced in oil cooler
9. Valve cover gasket replaced....valves adjusted
10.Replace diaphragm in carb
Got everything done except valve cover gasket and valve adjustment...as two of my parts did not come in like they were supposed to...the got sent through Illinois by UPS in their infinite wisdom rather than southern route so will be Tuesday instead of yesterday. Damnit.
So Monday will put everything back together except for idler pulley and block off plate for manifold exhaust.....then do that Tuesday night or Wednesday..or whenever I can then adust valves.
Hopefully wont find anything else but that was quite a bit to get done today....whew! I am at standstill until monday though....and then again until last two parts arrive by UPS.
I will take picture of what is left over when done....wish me luck..hopefully will be done Monday except for pulley install and block off plate which UPS screwed up and wont be here til Tuesday.
1. Smog pump removal
2. Air rail removal
3. EGR removal
4. DESMOG
5. Manifold gasket replacement
6. Freeze plug replacement (two of them...one large on block and one small under carb)
7. Radiator hoses replaced
8. Crush washers and o rings replaced in oil cooler
9. Valve cover gasket replaced....valves adjusted
10.Replace diaphragm in carb
Got everything done except valve cover gasket and valve adjustment...as two of my parts did not come in like they were supposed to...the got sent through Illinois by UPS in their infinite wisdom rather than southern route so will be Tuesday instead of yesterday.
Damnit.So Monday will put everything back together except for idler pulley and block off plate for manifold exhaust.....then do that Tuesday night or Wednesday..or whenever I can then adust valves.
Hopefully wont find anything else but that was quite a bit to get done today....whew! I am at standstill until monday though....and then again until last two parts arrive by UPS.
I will take picture of what is left over when done....wish me luck..hopefully will be done Monday except for pulley install and block off plate which UPS screwed up and wont be here til Tuesday.
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Where did you source that? They are getting harder to find lately.
Just bought one from NAPA
CRB 24093 - 16.99
Echlin, but didn't say if it was Chinese or not...
I got mine from Cruiser Outfitters or CCOT I think...it was part of his tune up kit...only way I could get it was with the kit...not separately. It does not come with the paper gasket....
My buddy with shop mentioned where he got his but cant remember where he said...I thought he said through Toyota but he has not done one in a year or two.
My buddy with shop mentioned where he got his but cant remember where he said...I thought he said through Toyota but he has not done one in a year or two.
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