My Desmog Thread (2 Viewers)

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Lousy, but I have a really bad manifold leak, so don't count her out yet.
 
Fowldarr, Look @ Jfnall's 2nd pic. See the rubber cap where you have duct tape? Go on down to the hardware store and look for the rubber caps. They sell them for canes, and for table legs, and they're cheap. They look a bit more legit than the silver shame.
 
the cane tip section had sizes every 1/8th inch. cheap too.

is the evap VCV on over the distributor correct?

and the check valve - is it flowing the right way?
 
haha, yes, I actually have a cane tip sitting in my garage for that very purpose, Guess I should have done that before the pictures....

jfnhall, can you be more specific, on which valve you're talking about, and I'll check it against the diagrams, and test it all etc. Thanks.
 
fowldarr,
Pics are kinda small, hard to see much detail...
The only thing that is visibly off is the choke breaker hose on the carb top.
It should be connected to the center fitting on the air horn (carb top).
It is currently connected to the HAC fitting.

See JFnall's first pic to see the hose from center top carb fitting, to green/black check valve to choke breaker.
 
jfnhall, can you be more specific, on which valve you're talking about, and I'll check it against the diagrams, and test it all etc. Thanks.

the one i am questioning is mounted on the airbox, lower passenger side. over the distributor. it has 4 hoses i think going into it. it looks just like the one i have mounted at my brake booster on the driver side. (the part #s in a breakdown are the same, i assume they are exactly alike)

the "check valve" is a small piece, with one hose in and one hose out, and i have it now over the distributor also. hard to see in my pic. this valve used to be mounted right over the thermostat housing with all the mass of small metal lines installed. not sure if it is "flowing" the right direction.


Mine seems to run pretty good. my only question about how it runs is that up to 1800 rpms, there seems to be a sluggishness, then at 1800-2000 rpms it rips.

could this be a vac line problem? a carb adjustment problem? or something else. i went to an RV cam. would this cause a power zoom at 2000 rpms? or an electric fuel pump -- could the flow be the wrong psi for off-the-line power? i guess all this needs to be in a different thread.

after 40 over forged pistons, fancy rings, rv cam, head with everything new, rebuilt carb, headers, desmog, elec fuel pump, k&N, ..... I expected more than i am currently getting. would have been lots cheaper to stay stock.

jeff
 
is it just mine computer, or all the pics we need to be looking at landing on the previous page?
 
Okay, here we go....

pile of weight lose...(air cleaner not part of trash pile)

desmog022webwu8.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

look familiar?

desmog009webmk2.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

new PS pump and idler pulley in place

desmog018webpg9.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

spagetti go by-by

desmog030webcg7.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

carb side

desmog032by4.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-19

another carbside shot

desmog034webyi5.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

dizzy side shot (this actually looks identical to jfnall's i think

desmog026websv5.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

EGR cooler plug

desmog036webrr3.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

EGR plate plug

desmog035webmv0.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

The most important desmog mod

desmog025webqd6.jpg

By trapper50cal at 2009-01-20

Chime In and tell me what's jacked...but it sure does run nice...right after a cold start (Durango, Winter) it was idling smoothly at 450 RPM...until it warmed up and was idling smoothly at 800 RPM.

BIG THANKS TO spcruiser (Steve Powers) for the guidance, wrenching and garage!!!!
Here's his sweet 69 Fj40 in action...

wheelinnm02640webmc5.jpg

By trapper50cal, shot with EX-Z60 at 2009-01-20
 
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Why didn't you remove the EGR cooler entirely? You don't have it hooked up to anything.
 
Looks clean though. Mine looks some different, because I kept my HAC, and have to have the 4 or 5 lines that go with that. But I'm taking your pictures home to compare notes. Thanks
 
Why didn't you remove the EGR cooler entirely? You don't have it hooked up to anything.

Guess I could have, this just seemed easier and Steve wanted to practice welding...

I think its connected to back of exhaust manifold via EGR downtube isn't it?
 
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Looks clean though. Mine looks some different, because I kept my HAC, and have to have the 4 or 5 lines that go with that. But I'm taking your pictures home to compare notes. Thanks

let me know if you need a different shot or clarification...I by no means know if it's all correct but it sure is running nice.
 
thanks trapper, I'm hoping the temp holds adn I'm gonna degrease it somewhat so I can see what I'm doing.
 
Guess I could have, this just seemed easier and Steve wanted to practice welding...

I think its connected to back of exhaust manifold via EGR downtube isn't it?

Yes it is, but if you welded the other end of the cooler shut then it's useless anyway.
 
wouldn't I then have to plug the down tube back behind everything? with a little plate...

seemed hard to get to

Yeah, which is why I would have done that while the manifolds were off. Oh well, not a big deal, just another spot for it to leak from in the future.
 
Yeah, which is why I would have done that while the manifolds were off. Oh well, not a big deal, just another spot for it to leak from in the future.

Man, I wish I would have had time to take manifold off, I have a wicked exhaust leak and two gaskets just sitting around. It would have been nice to button all that stuff up. (and straight pipe the cat...hush hush:D)
 

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