Hey Jim. I was thinking about the EVAP system and got lost.
Could you explain how the system will now function in more detail?
Could you explain how the system will now function in more detail?
My Desmog Thread
- Thread starter fowldarr
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Poor Jim, the only guy who knows what he's doin.....
If the truck is desmogged correctly, the evap system works the way it's supposed to work.
If the desmog is hacked, then the only thing to do is "do no more harm". By venting the tank to atmosphere through the canister, the filter function for air in/out of the tank is maintained. Dumping to atmospere prevents pressure/vacuum buildup in the tank w/ the associated problems.
If the desmog is hacked, then the only thing to do is "do no more harm". By venting the tank to atmosphere through the canister, the filter function for air in/out of the tank is maintained. Dumping to atmospere prevents pressure/vacuum buildup in the tank w/ the associated problems.
Y'all are lucky i've got the fluPoor Jim, the only guy who knows what he's doin.....
and am computer bound for now.Hey this klinetime574s brother here, the guy responsible for the "hack" desmog. (neat how it's "hack" even though it hasn't even been started yet, and we posted pics in order to make sure we were good to go)
But there's no bitterness here. I'm just gonna try to have a good time here. Nuthin personal
Got some thoughts I wanna spill, lemme think
Figured that. OEM diagram is hopeless for anyone under the age of 25, we figured some air moving through cap is better than alternative (i.e. NONE) You sayin disconnect from vacuum and run to air filter where you still get airflow through cap but no vac. leak? Nifty, good call.
Hell what if instead I throw some nice orange RTV on that dizzy cap and slap it on there. Yknow, so it doesn't leak. What would that be? Extra hack?
I don't understand this AT ALL. Aren't there just (2) hoses from the canister that need to be hooked up? One vents the float chamber on the carb. The other pulls vapors into engine. That electrical deal looked like (to me) in the diagram to let the float chamber vent when ignition is OFF. And then close when ignition is ON. Weber has float chamber vent (at I think so, manual says some garbage about evap. sys. and I figured that was it from looking at carb) so shouldn't this method work? (except for the vac leak part on the other hose, but that can be remedied by connecting to air filter instead). Gimme some insight here, the Toyota smog manual I'm reading is like gibberish to my young, fuel injected, no air pumpin mind.
Don't say "no." There's always a way to hook things up! I'm thinking a retrofitted "HIGH TORQUE" radio control servo, attached with tinkertoy-like mechanisms to OEM throttle linkage. Then, figure out how much rotation of said servo is necessary to raise engine RPM by X number of RPMs (whatev is necessary for A/C). Wire the servo to the A/c "ON" switch, bam, A/C idle up.
Or a hand throttle.
Or remove A/C for weight savings. Rofl
I kept telling my bro it would be BSPT, nice! But I don't suggest "stuffing" in an NPT fitting, that'd be a nice way to crack a rare, expensive 2F manifold.
If this forum was ONLY full of people that know what they're doing, it wouldn't exist.
That is to say, you guys don't need to look down on people for not knowing how to properly remove the emissions system from a 1984 Toyota Land Cruiser and install an aftermarket carb and maintain proper vacuum pressure and ensure consistent thread pitch diameter as the square of the derivative of f(x) as the limit approaching 0 is 1 and and and and head explosion who cares.
I suppose this Jim fella is more like a coach then a teacher, and Webers are like someone giving his football players a basketball and telling them to "do a lay-up."
But me, I like basketball.
But there's no bitterness here. I'm just gonna try to have a good time here. Nuthin personal
Got some thoughts I wanna spill, lemme think
FJ40Jim said:The hose connected from PCV tee to dissy cap is a giant sucking vacuum leak.
Delete the tee.
Connect Dissy cap vent to the air filter.
Figured that. OEM diagram is hopeless for anyone under the age of 25, we figured some air moving through cap is better than alternative (i.e. NONE) You sayin disconnect from vacuum and run to air filter where you still get airflow through cap but no vac. leak? Nifty, good call.
Hell what if instead I throw some nice orange RTV on that dizzy cap and slap it on there. Yknow, so it doesn't leak. What would that be? Extra hack?
I don't understand this AT ALL. Aren't there just (2) hoses from the canister that need to be hooked up? One vents the float chamber on the carb. The other pulls vapors into engine. That electrical deal looked like (to me) in the diagram to let the float chamber vent when ignition is OFF. And then close when ignition is ON. Weber has float chamber vent (at I think so, manual says some garbage about evap. sys. and I figured that was it from looking at carb) so shouldn't this method work? (except for the vac leak part on the other hose, but that can be remedied by connecting to air filter instead). Gimme some insight here, the Toyota smog manual I'm reading is like gibberish to my young, fuel injected, no air pumpin mind.
Don't say "no." There's always a way to hook things up! I'm thinking a retrofitted "HIGH TORQUE" radio control servo, attached with tinkertoy-like mechanisms to OEM throttle linkage. Then, figure out how much rotation of said servo is necessary to raise engine RPM by X number of RPMs (whatev is necessary for A/C). Wire the servo to the A/c "ON" switch, bam, A/C idle up.
Or a hand throttle.
Or remove A/C for weight savings. Rofl
I kept telling my bro it would be BSPT, nice! But I don't suggest "stuffing" in an NPT fitting, that'd be a nice way to crack a rare, expensive 2F manifold.
Trapper50cal said:
If this forum was ONLY full of people that know what they're doing, it wouldn't exist.
That is to say, you guys don't need to look down on people for not knowing how to properly remove the emissions system from a 1984 Toyota Land Cruiser and install an aftermarket carb and maintain proper vacuum pressure and ensure consistent thread pitch diameter as the square of the derivative of f(x) as the limit approaching 0 is 1 and and and and head explosion who cares.
I suppose this Jim fella is more like a coach then a teacher, and Webers are like someone giving his football players a basketball and telling them to "do a lay-up."
But me, I like basketball.
Hey, I ain't hatin', I don't know what I'm doing either. I'm just throwin some props to Jim for being patient and continuing to read the desmog threads and offer his professional guidance. It's gotta get old.
Hey this klinetime574s brother here, the guy responsible for the "hack" desmog. (neat how it's "hack" even though it hasn't even been started yet, and we posted pics in order to make sure we were good to go)
But there's no bitterness here. I'm just gonna try to have a good time here. Nuthin personal
If this forum was ONLY full of people that know what they're doing, it wouldn't exist.
That is to say, you guys don't need to look down on people for not knowing how to properly remove the emissions system from a 1984 Toyota Land Cruiser and install an aftermarket carb and maintain proper vacuum pressure and ensure consistent thread pitch diameter as the square of the derivative of f(x) as the limit approaching 0 is 1 and and and and head explosion who cares.
I suppose this Jim fella is more like a coach then a teacher, and Webers are like someone giving his football players a basketball and telling them to "do a lay-up."
In my opinion, you're out of line here. Everyone has been nothing but supportive of your brother and his build project.
He decided to post on someone else's desmog thread for input. He got feedback from an expert on these engines (whose advice was right on, btw). You're taking it personally. I suggest you listen to his advice, thank him, and move on.
i spoke too soon. ooops.
Last edited:
Well Dr. Meacham, when you take delivery of this Interociter you speak of from Exeter please do a thread on how you install it.
I envision Jim as Edward James Almos asking, "How do I reeech theese Keeeds??!!"
Yes, that is basically how the stock system works, with the addition of a VCV to to isolate the dissy when engine is off. Without the VCV, there is a chance that fuel vapor can float into the dissy cap when the engine is off. On startup, fuel may go boom inside dissy causing the infamous "burnt match" smell inside the cab (backflow through the dissy filter).
No need for RTV. The cap screws down on a watertight O-ring. The big o-ring is still available from toyota if it is dried up & cracked.
If there is a bowl vent, then it can be hooked up as stock. Double check that the carb fitting that vent hose is currently connected to is actually a vent, not a cast port that is unfinished. The bowl vent fitting is usually a pressed in steel barb.
If there is no bowl vent (normal Weber configuration), then disconnecting elec at canister leaves canister vent permanently sealed up.
Edit: As for pulling vapor into the manifold, yes that happens but in a controlled fashion. If the canister purge hose is connected direct to manifold, the engine will not idle, because the intake will be sucking air out of the tank. The stock system will only apply some vacuum to purge hose when the engine is warmed up and when throttle is at cruise. It is driven by a ported carb vac fitting, to sense throttle position and load.
No, it cannot be hooked up as stock. The toyota version uses a vac pot on the carb to pull in AC idle up. The Weber factory installed version (as on a Mustang) uses an elec solenoid in the linkage by the carb.
There are an infinite number of ways to build something to get the AC idle up effect, but they require parts scrounging and fabrication.
I don't recommend it either, but the soft intake doesn't crack when subjected to getting stuffed. The aluminum will just distort out of the way.
Good luck!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #173
And since this is my thread, I will speak up and say...I'm happy for anybody to speak up and ask or answer questions, because I learn something everytime (usually from Jim), so keep them coming. It is also important to note that sometimes terms like hack get thrown around in here and the best thing to do is take it with a grain of salt, verify whether your info is correct and go for it. (Easy for me to say, I know I"m a hack). All that said, I would also like to say how grateful I am for Jim. He does this kind of stuff for a living, he gets paid to do this, and the fact that he is always willing to give free advice, especially when sick says something about his character and the Land Cruiser community as a whole.
Now back to our regularly scheduled desmog thread
Now back to our regularly scheduled desmog thread
again, Jim is the man. thanks for offering up free to the great unwashed.
I think I am getting close. couple more questions. I hope Jim is getting over the flu, but i also hope he is keeping tabs. We are making some great progress.
Have been following the diagram and I am keeping the HAC. (FSM 3-31). Do I need to keep a check valve in there where the line goes over to the distributor? and if so, is it a "blue" one, or the smaller one over the thermo housing?
AND
On the HIC out the bottom of the air filter housing, there are upper and lower ports. the diagram says the lower port "to intake manifold". where do i route this to the intake manifold?? i see the diagram shows on the intake "to HIC valve", but it is hard to tell exactly what that port is on the diagram. at this point, I am out of ports over on the intake that are available, except for the "gas filter" (little do-dad with 3 ports coming straight up)
i will take some pics when I get more tubing.
and for anyone planning on doing this, Do NOT plan on using the tubing that is on the truck now. only about 1/4th of the lines you need will be the correct length. just go buy new stuff, probably 15' to be safe.
Jim, hope you are still reading this. If I lived close I would bring some fancy beer to you.
Jeff
I think I am getting close. couple more questions. I hope Jim is getting over the flu, but i also hope he is keeping tabs. We are making some great progress.
Have been following the diagram and I am keeping the HAC. (FSM 3-31). Do I need to keep a check valve in there where the line goes over to the distributor? and if so, is it a "blue" one, or the smaller one over the thermo housing?
AND
On the HIC out the bottom of the air filter housing, there are upper and lower ports. the diagram says the lower port "to intake manifold". where do i route this to the intake manifold?? i see the diagram shows on the intake "to HIC valve", but it is hard to tell exactly what that port is on the diagram. at this point, I am out of ports over on the intake that are available, except for the "gas filter" (little do-dad with 3 ports coming straight up)
i will take some pics when I get more tubing.
and for anyone planning on doing this, Do NOT plan on using the tubing that is on the truck now. only about 1/4th of the lines you need will be the correct length. just go buy new stuff, probably 15' to be safe.
Jim, hope you are still reading this. If I lived close I would bring some fancy beer to you.
Jeff
Yes,
and The small one above thermo housing.
The HIC is connected to intake manifold vacuum. It is connected to intake manifold vacuum at the tee fitting above the PCV valve, seen in the photo below.
Jim, I also wanted to thank you for devoting your knowledge to this forum. A lot of trucks wouldn't run right without your advice!
(3 cheers for Jim!!!) 
Not really a smog question, but an EVAP issue. I am going to an electric fuel pump. there are 2 hoses coming up from the fuel tank. the one with the fuel filter goes to the carb. what do i do with the other hose? i assume this is a tank vent hose. where does it go?
jeff
jeff
In my opinion, you're out of line here. Everyone has been nothing but supportive of your brother and his build project.
He decided to post on someone else's desmog thread for input. He got feedback from an expert on these engines (whose advice was right on, btw). You're taking it personally. I suggest you listen to his advice, thank him, and move on.
Yeah, yeah, whatever. I don't like people calling my work "hack", whether they are an expert or not. And believe it or not, I take my work personal. Cause at the end of the day, it's my blood splattered all over the engine bay and not yours, and not anyone else's. And keep in mind, I do this for FUN, it's not my job, and never will be. It's a HOBBY. Something I am (supposed) to enjoy. Something personal. So to tell me that I can't get offended when someone throws a derogatory term at MY work, MY time--I think you're more out of line. What's a mom gonna say if you tell her that her kid's ugly? Is such a response one you define as "out of line"?
But y'know what, I'm not gonna sweat it any more, because you've made your point and I've made mine. There's no need to continue bickering beyond that. Plus, I am listening to him, I am going to thank him, and I will move on (from the computer to the garage). So no more arguing! Yay!
I am now posting an assortment of smilies to make myself feel better.
Continuing on....
Heeeeeey, finger man. Lemme show you a trick. What's 9x4? One, two, three, four........ Thiiiiirrrty-siiiiix. <3
Rad. I love how Toyota mounted the distributor vent inside the cabin, easy to smell if it's frying because you jacked something up. Engine diagnosis by smell. 2 wycked.
I'm thinking that our Weber's port might not be finished, thanks for the tip. We stuck a fitting in there but didn't really know what to check to see if it was open or not--pure ignorance at it's finest. Better check that before cranking it up the 1st time. So would hooking the other hose (not the fuel chamber) up to the air filter connection wouldn't work? Wouldn't that be something like a poor man's "throttle load sensor". Or am I thinking about it wrong here? Does vacuum as measured at the filter change relative to how far the throttle opens? Either way it probably wouldn't work 1/10 as well as OEM vac line octopus.
So there is some random Weber A/C idle-up that can be fitted? Cool, makes it easier. Sort of. And hey, parts scrounging and fabrication are fun when you have nothing but time to kill and a willingness to learn... but I suppose time becomes more valuable when you aren't in school...
Good luck!
Thx. Especially for taking the time to explain things a bit more. In case you haven't noticed yet, I'm not the kinda guy who will simply accept an answer, even if it's 100% correct. I need details. Info. Numbers. So thank you very much for taking the time to expand upon your answers, allowing me to not just blindly follow them, but understand why they work.
Y'know, that old teach a man to fish and he'll live forever kinda deal.
After a project such as this, where does one buy a sexy air cleaner like the one on jim's blue ride, or what brand is it. That's way better than that black melenium falcon looking deal with all of the hoses that toyota uses stock. Sooo much simpler and all it wants to do is breath. Thanks
