My Desmog Thread

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What needs to be done with this? It is the hose that ran from the smog to underneath the vehicle under the brake booster.

That's probably the AIR hose that dumps down to the exhaust pipe in front of the cat. The proper fix is to remove the exh pipe, cut off the tube, then weld it shut.

The hillbilly fix is to cut the rubber hi-temp hose somewhere beneath the brake booster and shove something metallic into the hose and put a hose clamp on it. Word on the street is that a stock acorn lug nut is an excellent fit.
:cheers:
 
I've been using the post by Trapper to follow the vacuum lines and see which ones stay/ go.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/188643-my-desmog-thread-14.html#post4188183

Here are pictures of my carb - can you tell me which #'s to keep and which #'s get capped? I think I'm going HAC delete set up since I'm not at high elevation.

FJ60Carb-1.jpg

FJ60Carb-2.jpg
 
Thought I would post what I have done.

Weber 38, SOR's Edelbrock Headers, Air Rail Block off bolts (not yet installed), SOR Smog Pump Idler

IMG_4812.jpg


IMG_4807.jpg


IMG_4808.jpg


IMG_4809.jpg


Is there any way to hook up the A/C Idle up to the carburetor? I know I have the vacuum on the intake (plugged until I figure out what to do) But what could I do with the other line?

I need to figure out a way to plug the hole on the intake where the vacuum port went that had 3 hose connections.
Anyone know what size that is?

that engine sure is pretty,
 
Double check my set-up Por Favor: FJ60

From Vacuum Diaphragm to the TrollHole Carb. No HAC hooked up. Do i have the hose in the correct vacuum diaphragm adv?

From PCV(?) to the intake 3 hose adapter. 2 of them are plugged, the 3rd connected as seen

From Dizzy cap to firewall

From Tee'd PCV to other dizzy vent

From widget underneath air-cleaner to another Tee'd section

Any advice would be great. Thanks!
Engine Bay.jpg
 
Desmog Complete - Won't Idle -- Please Help!

I've been busy these last few weeks, Manifolds are flat, crack in Intake welded, Carb & Dissy back from Jim C. and I spent the day routing vacuum lines. Per the Desmog schematic. Thanks again Jim C.

When I stabbed the dissy in the first time it was backwards, fire out the carb, etc. But now it is in and set @ 7deg BTC... however, it is not idling at all. As I tried to slow down the rev's (I had to use the Manual Choke to keep it running) I reset the timing, but it still won't idle. This was with the vac adv plugged and off the dissy.

I tried running it as it is in the pics below...
Two lose vac lines at the carb are going to the air cleaner, one on dissy side is going to the VCV.

Am I wrong, it should idle without the aircleaner right?

P1040178.jpg

P1040179.jpg

P1040180.jpg

After awhile, I reconnected the vac adv, and man does it rev nice, strong and quick, but it just dies if I don't keep pumping/reving the gas.

There must be something I'm missing... duh! But what?

Thanks in advance for your support... I hoping to have it out of my wife's garage this weekend, she hates snow on the windshields.
P1040178.jpg
P1040179.jpg
P1040180.jpg
 
i poped out one of the a.i. nozzels and took it to my hardware store and got brass pipe thread caps that fit perfect i want to say they were 1/2 in pipe i know it should have been metric but they fit perfect not as prety as jim c allen head plugs but they do work for cheap....
 
nozzels are still used in head just removed pipe.... and capped end
 
I bought some .25" NPT plugs from the hardware store to plug the AI holes in my manifold. I could suggest going with something with an allan type of head because you can't get a wrench on them when they are fully seating into the head.

Frank
 
I've been busy these last few weeks, Manifolds are flat, crack in Intake welded, Carb & Dissy back from Jim C. and I spent the day routing vacuum lines. Per the Desmog schematic. Thanks again Jim C.

When I stabbed the dissy in the first time it was backwards, fire out the carb, etc. But now it is in and set @ 7deg BTC... however, it is not idling at all. As I tried to slow down the rev's (I had to use the Manual Choke to keep it running) I reset the timing, but it still won't idle. This was with the vac adv plugged and off the dissy.

I tried running it as it is in the pics below...
Two lose vac lines at the carb are going to the air cleaner, one on dissy side is going to the VCV.

Am I wrong, it should idle without the aircleaner right?

After awhile, I reconnected the vac adv, and man does it rev nice, strong and quick, but it just dies if I don't keep pumping/reving the gas.

There must be something I'm missing... duh! But what?

There is a hose that goes from a tee fitting right above the PCV to the HIC valve on the bottom of the aircleaner. If the aircleaner is off and that hose is left open, it is a large vacuum leak that will make for poor/no idle.

Everything visible in the pics looks right. Just to be sure, when it dies at idle, immediately unplug the elec connector on carb and verify that a 'Click' is heard. That will confirm the presence of power & ground @ the connector for the idle valve.
 
No Idle

Jim C. - Thanks for the suggestions...

I'll check for the click first, then put the air cleaner back on with the complete vacuum routing and try again.

If I don't hear a click, what should I do as a work around.

I'm close... I know I'm close, just a few more tweaks and I think I've got it.

PS: I have double checked and both of the VCV's are dead. One has a vacuum leak, the other holds a vacuum, but neither will flow any air. Tested using the FSM method.
 
Desmog Complete & Purring Like a Kitten

Vacuum leak was it!

My hose on the dissy side from the tee above the PCV to the VCV was shredded, so I just capped the tee for now. Once I stopped the leak she purrs like a kitten.:)

Timing is set @ 7BTC, starts pretty well, idles nicely at 600 - 650rpm, revs real well and pulls great.

Any work-around for bad VCV's? I have one used one on order, but I need two.

All that is left if a valve adj. I'll get to that after our bitter cold snap passes - high today of 5deg.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

Happy New Year!!!
:cheers:

I'll post the finished pics tomorrow when I'm watch football.
 
You can try connecting vac directly from carb base to the VCV, see how it drives, especially when cold. The BVSV prevents the VCV from connecting evap to engine before engine is warmed up. I suspect that bypassing BVSV altogether will allow too much evap into the intake manifold, which will make a cold, stumbly engine more stumbly.

Try it and post your findings.

Im BVSV'less and just hooked manifold vacuum to the VCV's to provide vac to them. We'll see how it responds when it gets cold out this weekend. I'll post up my findings.

Jim- got the carb sorted out . thanks for your help.

If the VCV for evap is connected to manifold vac, then the engine will be sucking on the fuel tank whenever the engine is running. Better to connect as stock, to a ported vac source, so that evap VCV is switched off when idling.

OTOH, the dissy ventilation VCV does get manifold vacuum, because it is not a vac leak into the intake manifold.

You're welcome.





Well, i know this is quite an old post im replying to, however i wanted to post my findings on hooking manifold Vac directly to the VCV's.

basically, it makes a cold engine harder to start (sometimes it can take multiple tries to start) and if you try driving on a bone cold engine right off the bat, she might stall, however, once running for a few mins, she'll run no prob

better way to provide vac to your VCV if you arent using BVSV's like some of us are, - as Jim stated - is to hook the vac to the carb base.. not directly to the manifold.

cheers-

Milo
 
better way to provide vac to your VCV if you arent using BVSV's like some of us are, - as Jim stated - is to hook the vac to the carb base.. not directly to the manifold.

Can you take a picture of this please? I'm not using BVSV's and am running a TrollHole carb. This Carb has only one port which i have hooked up to my Primary Vac Adv. A picture of my setup is located above: Post#706
 
well, i dont have any pics handy at the moment, but the stock carb has several ported vac lines at the base, im using one of those for the VCV vac. that way shes only sucking on the tank when shes under load, not at all times.

running bvsv less works, but not as well as running as the OEM engineers designed it.

im sure Jim C could prob chime in on an effective way to provide vac to your VCV using that Trollhole.
 
OK thanks, Hopefully Jim C can tell me if i've got it connected right.
 
Hey worldspan, i just took a look at your pics, looks like in your 3rd pic down you have a ported vac source thats capped with a red cap - its the one that slightly angles up..

Jim correct me if im wrong, but i believe you can use that one to provide ported vac to your VCV so your Rig isnt suckin on the tank 24/7.

hope that helps


- Milo
 
^ yep. sure did.


good catch Jim.

your suspicions were right about the cold stumbly engine being more stumbly with constant vac on the VCV btw.


Cheers
 
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