Builds My Backwoods Overland built URJ200 “Jolene”--- (1 Viewer)

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Waiting to finish up a call at 4:30 and then will be out to disconnect the terminals and inspect the connections.

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There are a few extra connections with those terminal extensions, so plenty of points to remove, clean, inspect and tighten.
Soooooo...we just pulled the battery connections and here’s what we found and addressed the issue. The cables, connectors you see are from Slee. The connectors wrapped around the battery terminals are Lead. They are connected to Aluminum connections. Upon further inspection, we pulled the bolt connecting the two and found that the lead was breaking down where it was touching the aluminum. So dissimilar metals breaking down (oxidizing) at that specific connection is what caused this issue.
Thank you to everyone for chiming in!
 
Very interesting! I wonder if that's an issue Slee has seen with the extensions before?
 
Not sure. I’ve had these connectors on for 2 years, with minimum maintenance thus far. When I have the truck in the shop next, we’re going to look at how we might mitigate this issue down the road.

For today, we just took a wire brush and cleaned up the surfaces. The truck started right up. Only issue (secondary) that I had after that, the passenger side window could not be controlled by the Driver’s side door controller again. To fix this issue, if it ever pops up for someone, you need to use the controller on the passenger side and lower the window an inch or two. From there, you raise the window and hold the controller in the UP position for 3 or more seconds. Then you lower the window all the way. Once it’s fully open, you hold it down for 3 or more seconds. Then you check the driver’s door controller to see if it worked. Repeat if it does but hold up or down for a touch longer until it works.
 
Soooooo...we just pulled the battery connections and here’s what we found and addressed the issue. The cables, connectors you see are from Slee. The connectors wrapped around the battery terminals are Lead. They are connected to Aluminum connections. Upon further inspection, we pulled the bolt connecting the two and found that the lead was breaking down where it was touching the aluminum. So dissimilar metals breaking down (oxidizing) at that specific connection is what caused this issue.
Thank you to everyone for chiming in!

Just saw these posts.

@bryson - I had the same issues and it took me a while to figure out the issue. I asked Christo about it and he said they didn't offer other terminals. He said they have heard about this issue from a couple of people. Mostly, those living in high corrosion areas. He suggested filing the terminals down to get rid of the pitting and re-installing with di-electric grease on that interface to keep water out and prevent corrosion. I just ended up buying new terminals and putting the grease on as they were too pitted (see before and after photo). I haven't seen issues so far, but I need to inspect and see if terminals are corroding.

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There are a few extra connections with those terminal extensions, so plenty of points to remove, clean, inspect and tighten.


While my eyes are sorta working...
^^What he said^^

ALL contact points must be cleaned.
**In particular, the extension pieces...because IMO, they are even more susceptible to crud...since it’s harder, flatter metal than the lead clamps any layers of crud are more likely to get in and cause interruption. Pull the bolts, clean all surfaces between and retighten all, including where the actual wire connects.
 
Just saw these posts.

@bryson - I had the same issues and it took me a while to figure out the issue. I asked Christo about it and he said they didn't offer other terminals. He said they have heard about this issue from a couple of people. Mostly, those living in high corrosion areas. He suggested filing the terminals down to get rid of the pitting and re-installing with di-electric grease on that interface to keep water out and prevent corrosion. I just ended up buying new terminals and putting the grease on as they were too pitted (see before and after photo). I haven't seen issues so far, but I need to inspect and see if terminals are corroding.

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fQfB2NI.jpg

SOOOO Interesting! The connections on one looked EXACTLY the same. I couldn’t believe it at first. When it finally gets warmer out, I’ll put some time into further cleaning the other connections and possibly replacing the lead connections.
 
I'm not sure where you're located in the country but I am in Northwest Florida and humidity and corrosion are an issue especially with aluminum ...we try to steer clear of it if possible.. I would not think that lead or brass or any of the other metals would be problematic. I usually get my electronic gear at a boat supply house(west marine) because they are used to dealing with salt corrosion.. obviously we still have aluminum in relays Etc that we can't do anything about. But I would minimize it if you can. I'm having the same issue right now with my Kubota tractor... aluminum connectors...
 
Hope everyone is doing well. Couple updates on the truck. After figuring out the intermittent power issue due to the dirty connection, the truck has been stellar. I'm going to be throwing a couple upgrades on the truck in the coming weeks. Here are some highlights:

Lighting Upgrade: While I've been very happy with the Lightforce Genesis that are on my bumper. I'm going to upgrade those to the Lightforce HTX2 lights. With the HTX2, I'm expecting to get a longer reach in front of the truck and I'm happy that they have the interchangeable filters, much like the Genesis lights.

Solar Power: In order to allow the fridge to run most of the time and to have peace of mind when camping off the beaten path, I'm going to be installing a 100W Zamp Solar Obsidian panel to the Prinsu Rack. With the lower profile of the Obsidian series panels, I'm hoping that it will be virtually unnoticed both visually and from a wind noise perspective.

As we get these upgrades complete, I'll post some photos and a synopsis of the installs.
 
So sexy...
 
Wheels/Tires/Air:

Probably one of the more interesting aspects of the build was trying to figure out my path with wheels and tires. For the wheels, I looked at a number of options such as going with the OE 18”, 17” Evo Corse via Mainline Overland, and Icon’s but none of them really “did it for me”. It just so happened that one night in February I was checking out a post by Mountain State Overland where they featured OK4WD’s Tacoma and I zeroed in on the wheels. After asking a few questions, I had found my wheel, the Braid Winrace T in a 17” x 7.5” wide.

Here are the specs on the wheel:
Model: WINRACE T
Size: 17x7.5
Offset: -5 (about 4” backspacing)
Color: FLAT BLACK
Hub Bore: 110MM
Bolt Pattern: 5X150
Lug Style: CONE M14 steel inserts.
Weight: 33.06 lbs

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For the tires, I was dead-set on going with the BFGoodrich KO2 All-Terrains in a 285/70R17 as they’ve been utilized and proven by a number of 200 series owners over the last several years. Previously, I had the KO2 on my wife’s 2014 Grand Cherokee and they performed admirably on a number of occasions in deep snow, mud, and dirt roads. However, as the install of various components kept moving around and the wheels being delayed by OK4WD, I suddenly found myself considering the new BFGoodrich KM3 Mud-Terrain. I’ve had the KM2 on my Wrangler for years and have never really had any issues with the performance of the tire or really noticed the road noise that people complain about (it probably helps that I’m a bit hard of hearing). With BFG promising modest gains in capabilities on a number of fronts and a quieter tire, I jumped at the chance to throw the KM3 on the truck and I couldn’t be happier.

This wheel/tire combo provides significant functionality over a KO2 and really sets off the look/demeanor of the truck, I couldn’t be happier with these two components. From an install perspective, the Winrace T’s profile pushes the tire out a touch beyond the edge of the fender—approximately 3/4ths of an inch. Note: If you decide to go with this set of wheels, they have a very tight bead and I would only recommend a shop that is going to take extra care not to scratch the outer finish of the wheels.

Under the hood, we placed an ARB Dual Compressor mated to a Slee Mount on the driver’s side of the engine bay. For the better part of the last 12 years, I’ve constantly had a PowerTank in my trucks. Going wth the compressor, I’m okay with giving up a bit of time to gain a substantial amount of space within the rig and leave the PowerTank at home.
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Amazing build! Have you had any issues with that offset? Thinking about going with these braids on stock suspension.
 

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