Builds My Backwoods Overland built URJ200 “Jolene”--- (1 Viewer)

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Quick Couple of Updates:

Baja Designs 40” S8 Light Bar:
After about 15 or so emails with the COO of Baja about the issue I have repeatedly had with the S8 Light Bars, they agreed to send over another replacement that they would test and certify for moisture resistance into the housing. We put the new light bar on the truck in mid-March and so far have not had any issues thus far with moisture build up. That being said, with the last bar, it took about 2-3 months before anything noticeable was visible in the housing. I’m thrilled that Baja was so responsive. CBI/Prinsu was also very responsive with my inquiries on overall design/bar placement on the rack itself.

Blown CV Axle:
I was out with the Mountain State Overland guys this weekend in Southern WV. I had my Turtleback and was first to take a creek crossing and muddy, rocky hill climb on the opposite creek bank. The truck struggled to climb up the narrow passage and the weight of the Turtleback didn’t do us any favors. After several attempts, we nearly had the rig to the top of the obstacle when a thunderous explosion blew out the passenger side CV. This was shocking, sickening and sobering in that in all the years I’ve been out on the trails, I’ve never put myself in a position that my truck could not get me home. The truck is currently sitting at a Dealership in West Virginia waiting to get into the shop to give a better understanding of how much actual damage occurred. I have a sneaking suspicion that they’re going to want to replace the other CV and possibly the front diff as well.

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Just watched this on YouTube. That sound 😵
 
If I remember correctly, I had the truck in the following settings:
  1. 4lo
  2. Traction off
  3. Mud/dirt
  4. Center diff locked
I’m fairly confident that if I would have had the rear locked it would have pushed the truck up the hill more effectively.

At the end of the day, I learned a number of things from this situation and I’m grateful for the guys from MSO being decent about it. The journey will continue.
 
If I remember correctly, I had the truck in the following settings:
  1. 4lo
  2. Traction off
  3. Mud/dirt
  4. Center diff locked
I’m fairly confident that if I would have had the rear locked it would have pushed the truck up the hill more effectively.

At the end of the day, I learned a number of things from this situation and I’m grateful for the guys from MSO being decent about it. The journey will continue.

Hard to see everything going on, but from what I could see you were being given less than stellar advice/spotting/support. Also the amount of force being exerted on the truck it’s a good thing IMO the CV broke instead of something more expensive and difficult to replace. Are you thinking of carrying a CV as a trail spare?
 
Spare CV from now on for any stuff in the east.

I will say that I was listening to the spotter and was being told to keep going. The reality is that my judgement slipped. I had a gut feeling that We needed to do a double line pull from the winch and that probably would have kept the day moving. Thus, I just remind myself, go your training, you gotta get your truck home.
 
Added the DMOS Collective Delta Shovel to the truck’s kit. Love the simplicity of this shovel and it’s mounting.
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First off, I hope everyone is doing great and enjoying the start of the New Year. It’s been a bit since I posted on the status of the truck, so today is probably as good as any. Generally, the truck has been outstanding over the last 6-8 months with little to no issues and and I’ve only had very minor upgrades or updates to various components on the truck. Thus that brings me to the last couple weeks. About a month ago, I noticed a small amount of water pooling on the rubber Toyota floor mat on the passenger side. Upon further inspection, I found that the carpet was a bit damp but nothing that significantly worried me. I took some time to dry to the carpets and fish around to see where the water was originating from but no luck. I tooled around on a few threads here and took the steps to make sure that various drains were cleared, everything seemed to check out. Note: I have not had to replace the windshield (as stated in various threads that this could result in water intrusion if not correctly installed).

I tried to figure out how to replicate the intrusion but no luck. A week later, I came out and found a bit more water built up on the floor mat. Both times I had the truck backed up to the garage door, which means that parked ever so slightly downhill. Again, I cleaned up the water and tried to dry it out as best as possible—being the start of winter, drying out interior with near freezing temps was somewhat a challenge. Note: Since about mid-December, I’ve been parking the truck nose up and I’ve had ZERO issues with water coming into the truck (odd).

Last Monday, 1/6, I came out to the truck to go to work and start the New Year off right. However, the truck had different things in mind. The truck unlocked at the push of my key fob and I jumped in to push the brake, hit the start button. The dash flashes on, the starter makes a quick chirp and then everything goes dead—VERY VERY VERY DEAD. All systems were shut down within the truck, I couldn’t even unlock the rear door using the Cruiser Outfitters interior door unlock button. The only thing that had any read out was the Blue Seas Battery Display under the hood that game me 12.5V on the main battery.

I had a neighbor come over to try to jump the truck to life. He hooks up his battery, then we go to hook up the cables on the 200. By just connecting the Positive Terminal/Cable, the headlights came on and I checked the dash to see that the components of the dash were now on—the truck sluggishly started after 4 cranks (usually it’s like 1 or 1.5 cranks). I made arrangements to have the truck checked out at a local shop to see if I had any loose connections, bad battery or possibly an alternator issue. Got a call the next day, all is fine and the truck is keeping a static 12.5Vs on the primary and secondary battery and started right up every time they tested it. I get the truck back on Tuesday and the truck ran like it always has, so I was hoping that maybe it was just a simple “bad day”.

That takes me to this morning. I drove the truck just yesterday. Took it to a car wash and cleaned off the recent winter salt/grime. Came home and left it alone. I come out this morning to drive to the airport at 6am for a 8:30am flight. I push in the brake, hit the start button and it’s a repeat of last Monday. I couldn’t believe it, I was angry, I was stressed and I was going to be late for a flight while not having a chance to address this issue. Thankfully, my wife came home this evening and was able to repeat the same “jump” procedure we completed the previous Monday and the truck slowly came back to life. I contacted the dealership and they said to bring it in. As she was driving there, the infotainment system was shut down every time she came to a stop and the battery gauge would flutter from 14 down to about 12.

I’m seriously at a loss with this situation. I’m hoping that it’s nothing serious and my extended warranty will carry the day to finding a solution. I’m worried that the Dealership will target the dual battery system as a warranty violation and I’ll be on the hook for a really expensive repair, but we’ll see. I think what really kicks my ass about this is that I zeroed in a 200 for it’s reliability and longevity; having a truck that may not be electrically sound and could leave me stranded deep in the woods, desert or wherever makes me sick just thinking about it.

I’ve read about a half dozen threads on varying issues surrounding water penetration into the cabin and the results of corrosion on the ECU and wiring systems, so I’m not hopeful that this is going to be a open/shut case. Thoughts? Experiences with warranty work for modified Toyotas?
 
Sure sounds like a ground issue, though the water ingress makes the diagnosis interesting. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Since this has happened multiple times and has been remedied by a jump start, I wouldn't quite think its related to the water on the floor. I would disconnect your secondary power system completely. Take out your main battery and get it load tested. If its good, do the same with the alternator. The screen dropping in and out tells me that you were getting inadequate charging from the alternator at low/idle rpms. My money is on a dead/old battery or at the very least an underperforming voltage regulator in your alternator. Both are pretty easy fixes.
 
Since this has happened multiple times and has been remedied by a jump start, I wouldn't quite think its related to the water on the floor. I would disconnect your secondary power system completely. Take out your main battery and get it load tested. If its good, do the same with the alternator. The screen dropping in and out tells me that you were getting inadequate charging from the alternator at low/idle rpms. My money is on a dead/old battery or at the very least an underperforming voltage regulator in your alternator. Both are pretty easy fixes.
Quick question though: does it count as a jump if you’re only connecting the positive terminal? Just seems odd
 
Quick question though: does it count as a jump if you’re only connecting the positive terminal? Just seems odd
Yes it does. That is the proper way to jump a vehicle. Most people think you connect terminal to terminal positive and ground from the running vehicle to the dead one. Only connecting the positive terminal, and the other clamp to vehicle ground is correct.

 
I’ve had issues with water getting in, on the front passenger side. It happens when I go to the car wash. Water will come in 6 “ or so up the A pillar, moisten the fabric on the inside of it, then leak down onto my weather tech floor mats. Not ideal, but I haven’t been able to prevent it. I bought some 3/16” rope, put in between the door seal lips, didn’t fix it. New door seals, didn’t fix it. New seals plus rope, better, still happens. It looks like the water comes in when it’s sprayed at final rinse when sprayers at pointing up from below the A pillar.
 
For the water, 2 thoughts, one would be checking the drains in the sunroof to ensure they aren't plugged. Second would be to check under the hood, below the plastic cowl or in the cowl for blockages or breaks in the plastic. Under the plastic is an opening right into your blower motor behind the glovebox. Something could be causing water to collect somewhere around there. But agree with others that the electrical issue should be unrelated/coincidence.
 
Going into Week Number of 3 of Power Randomness and tryin to figure this out. I’ve had the Alternator and Batteries (2) tested multiple times and everything checks out. I just completed a full 2 weeks of no issues, everything was fine (except that passenger side window wouldn’t work from the driver’s side controller—this was attributed to a loss of power). I had the truck at a Toyota Dealership and they basically stated that the positive terminal connection was slightly loose which was causing the issue that we were having—that was checked out on 1/13/2020. Today, I was running an errand at lunch and everything was fine until I came back to the truck—hit the button and doooooooooooooom—all power lost. I had a friend close by who stopped by and gave me a jump. When I got home, I hit the start/stop button and as soon as I did that—loss of all power, the steering wheel didn’t suck in—tried to start it again and it was dead as a door nail. To top that off, I go inside and come out about 30 minutes later....truck starts right up with no issues.

Freaking random and odd as hell. I’m getting ready to just swap out the main battery and see if that is the overall issue. I want to say it is but I’m not 100% sure. How could it start without issue at one point, is dead after use minutes later, and then start on it’s own without use 40 minutes later.

If this persists, the next thing I will need to look at will be the RedArc battery monitoring/management system.
 
Does the start up issue happen to occur when there is a short time frame between shutting the motor off and trying to turn back on? The reason I ask this is I had random start up issues with my daily, and replaced battery twice under warranty until I took it to Koons Toyota and they realized it was my starter that was the cause of the problem.
 
Does the start up issue happen to occur when there is a short time frame between shutting the motor off and trying to turn back on? The reason I ask this is I had random start up issues with my daily, and replaced battery twice under warranty until I took it to Koons Toyota and they realized it was my starter that was the cause of the problem.

The first two situations were after the truck had sat overnight or for at least 2 or more days. Today was the first time that it did this after only about 3 minutes of being shutdown. Would the starter literally kill off all power to truck? This is leaving the truck literally “bricked” with no lights, nothing on the dash—just odd.
 
The first two situations were after the truck had sat overnight or for at least 2 or more days. Today was the first time that it did this after only about 3 minutes of being shutdown. Would the starter literally kill off all power to truck? This is leaving the truck literally “bricked” with no lights, nothing on the dash—just odd.

I would get power to accessory mode but no crank IIRC. I don't remember there being a time where the lights wouldn't turn on or radio wouldn't work. But then after waiting 10-30mins I could finally start the car. There were a couple time where I had called AAA or ToyotaCare to bring a tow truck and by the time they showed up the car decided to start.

Might not be the same case for you.. worth getting checked if you're still within warranty?
 
I would get power to accessory mode but no crank IIRC. I don't remember there being a time where the lights wouldn't turn on or radio wouldn't work. But then after waiting 10-30mins I could finally start the car. There were a couple time where I had called AAA or ToyotaCare to bring a tow truck and by the time they showed up the car decided to start.

Might not be the same case for you.. worth getting checked if you're still within warranty?

Yes, under warranty, per se. I’m a bit worried that they’ll take me to task for my dual battery setup. That’s probably the most insane thing about this....you build a truck with dual batteries to have that “insurance” if you will and yet it’s still shutting down like this.
 
Going into Week Number of 3 of Power Randomness and tryin to figure this out. I’ve had the Alternator and Batteries (2) tested multiple times and everything checks out. I just completed a full 2 weeks of no issues, everything was fine (except that passenger side window wouldn’t work from the driver’s side controller—this was attributed to a loss of power). I had the truck at a Toyota Dealership and they basically stated that the positive terminal connection was slightly loose which was causing the issue that we were having—that was checked out on 1/13/2020. Today, I was running an errand at lunch and everything was fine until I came back to the truck—hit the button and doooooooooooooom—all power lost. I had a friend close by who stopped by and gave me a jump. When I got home, I hit the start/stop button and as soon as I did that—loss of all power, the steering wheel didn’t suck in—tried to start it again and it was dead as a door nail. To top that off, I go inside and come out about 30 minutes later....truck starts right up with no issues.

Freaking random and odd as hell. I’m getting ready to just swap out the main battery and see if that is the overall issue. I want to say it is but I’m not 100% sure. How could it start without issue at one point, is dead after use minutes later, and then start on it’s own without use 40 minutes later.

If this persists, the next thing I will need to look at will be the RedArc battery monitoring/management system.
That does sound like other cases I've seen/heard of that ended up being bad connections (dirty or loose terminals, corroded cables or the like). I have certainly seen it cause the situation you describe where the entire vehicle is "bricked" like that. In all the testing, have the terminals actually been removed from the battery(ies)? They can look just fine at first glance, but that doesn't mean all is well. Corrosion in the right place, or slightly loose clamps can cause a world of hurt.
 

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