my 86 22re 5speed 1stGen 4Runner

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I've also been eyeballing those giant fiberglass mesh racks stacked next to fastfood dumpsters that their bread is delivered in. They're like a milk-crate but at least 3'x3' and the sides are only maybe 6". I say anything stacked next to a dumpster is fair game! 1988 Case of California vs. Greenwood
 
I made a roof rack out of 3/4 conduit for the wife's escape then Adapted it to her darango. Il post some pics tomorrow it was not that hard. I would recommend slanting the front they make a lot of noise going down the road.

Chris

Chris Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD app.
 
cool. Pictures are always good stuff.
Thats why i was planning on the wind deflector up front eventually. I also think that having the rack on the rear of the vehicle might help with reducing the noise a bit. Maybe i'll research what the pressure wave would look like on the 4runner. Too much math for 230AM. Was also thinking about adding a wind deflector just in front of the rack or some vertical air spoilers.
I figure its all moot though cause the 4runner has so many drafts from the loose weatherseals. The triangle shaped door window vents and side mirrors make plenty of noise already.
 
DH, I owned a 93 Nissan truck back in the 90s. I had a fibre glass cap over the bed. I used 7/8 unistrut on top drilled through the top and used some 4x4" stamped steel underneath and just through bolted that together along with a good sealant. Never had an issue at all. Plenty strong and water proof. I carried all kinds of things up there from 36' extension ladders to a kayak. You should be good to go. Good luck
 
so...

I need to make some adapting brackets to connect my newly acquired homemade junkyard bumper to the frame of the 4runner. they will bolt into the stock location on the frame and kind of "s" down to clear the tailgate, then bolt between the bumper mounting tabs and a tow bar. I'm wanting to use 1/4" plate steel, but am having issues sourcing something small and cheap enough. I have a bunch of 1/4" 6061-T651 Aluminum plate in the correct sizes and am wondering if it will be strong enough for a rear recovery and the unlikely towing of a small trailer. This would be temporary until i can find some proper 1/4" steel plate.

I remove all answers from any liability of course!

In hindsight, i prob should have grabbed the drop brackets from the junked 4runner, but i was distracted from all the other booty i had unbolted. I have my old brackets from the stock tow bumper, but it drops this bumper to maybe 8" above the ground.

I've been wanting to search the drop pile at bmg metals in manassas, but my schedule just doesn't allow this.
 
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I have the center bar, and the bumper will bolt to the outside of the bracket.

here is a pic of what i need to build, cept not as low hanging and the lower part will need to be narrower for the bumper.

75031.jpg


75031_a.jpg


Looks like every manufacturer uses 1/8" or 3/16" steel too. I'll try looking for some of that also. I suppose that the mount should bend before the frame does...
 
Looks like every manufacturer uses 1/8" or 3/16" steel too. I'll try looking for some of that also. I suppose that the mount should bend before the frame does...



Damn what are you planning on pulling????
 
Looks like every manufacturer uses 1/8" or 3/16" steel too. I'll try looking for some of that also. I suppose that the mount should bend before the frame does...



Damn what are you planning on pulling????


You never know. I'm more concerned with a dynamic extraction. I'm worried about the plate being sheared in the event of a large force being applied 90-179degrees to the plate surface. A gusset would help, but I dont weld. Was thinking of chopping part of an Ibeam to get a triangle with a flange so I can bolt it on. Prob too much work for a bumper made from 4"x4"x3/16" angle iron, but I got it and the towbar for cheap so I may as well use it. I need some rear recovery points.
I have three car batteries though...:hhmm:

*my stock bumper bracket is made some bent 1/4" c-channel in an "s" shape.Thinking about chopping out the middle section and then sandwiching the two parts with 1/8" mending brackets and eventually welding them up.

** looks like it'll be made from 1/4" hot rolled steel plate. BMG metals in manassas is awesome. $10 for a 9"x48" piece. Search the drops/scrap with cash in your pocket.
 
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So fast forward a bit after a few months of being parked.


New to me modified ARB front bumper
4runnerwithfrontarbbumper.jpg

I haven't wired up the winch yet, but found a perfect place under the hood for the control box.
I had to remove the stock turn signals that fit into the stock bumper, so I did the parking light turn signal mod.
To do this you need to add a dual filament bulb and bulb socket into the parking light housing. Here is the thread over on YT that i used for guidance.
How do you relocate blinkeres into parking lights? - YotaTech Forums
Right now the turn signals work, but the parking lights won't turn on. I switched some wires now and maybe it'll work correctly.

Swapped in a SR5 gauge cluster swap with the extra gauges and the trip odometer. Here is a cool vid on how to manually adjust the odometer...
Toyota Truck Odometer Correction Part I - YouTube
It is a two-part vid.


Around the campfire at Coal Miner we got to talking about the 2lo mod Burl did to his 62. I've been thinking about a front lunchbox locker for the 7.5ifs diff and did not want the unwanted characteristics of extra stress and crappy steering while the hubs are locked on the trail. I only want to engage the front diff when needed
My solution is to swap in the ADD(Automatic Differential Disconnect) axle tube that is still attached to the front 4.88 diff that i picked up.
I can lock the manual Aisin hubs when on the trail, then tool around in 2lo. The ADD system will be activated off of an electrical switch to activate the vacuum to pull the collar on the ADD axle. Presto, locked 4lo or 4hi when i need it, then back to 2lo. When it is time to hop back on the highway, unlock the hubs when i switch back to 2hi.
Poor man selectable front locker...
Twin stick would be a better option, but that would cost a couple hundred more bucks in parts and I hear that i need to remove some pin from the transfer case. I have most of the parts for the before mentioned modification. ARB air locker is the only option I know for a selectable locker and that is crazy expensive for something i might rip out in a couple of years for a SAS.
Maybe find a 4x4 button from a 62? :D


After about 45min of idle and 5mi of driving still no coolant/water in the oil. :meh:
looking good!
Think i hooked up a vacuum line wrong somewhere though b/c the truck gets a rpm surge whenever i shift.
Still need to adjust the valves hot and set the timing.
I miss those 80degree days from PA
Engine pix come later.
:steer:
 
Check it out


Tracy welded on the sliders. Thanks Bro!


and I got to painting them...and there was some paint left so I said "what the hell?"

fe8d89ac-b9a4-4ebb-bd99-d3cbcc8cc3ad_zps7e3e40be.jpg


IMG_20130506_190847_475_zpsa125754c.jpg



I think the wheels and sliders look good, but i'm not so sure on the front and rear bumpers. Maybe they'll grow on me.

It's certainly different.

***yea, i gave it a couple days. Changing bumpers back to black. The truck just got a little too mexicant.
 
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oh yea. I fixed the idle problem.

I adjusted the TPS, then created a dead spot in the acceleration.

MattMorty noticed that my idle screw was not backed all the way out, which created a higher than normal idle, about 1500.
I backed that out and readjusted the TPS, and that solved the idle problem.

Then while driving over to Tracy's the screw that adjusts the throttle body from quickly slamming shut decided to screw itself down further and bump the idle to 2500! Said screw is now removed.
The fine idle adjustment screw now works and i'm dialed in at about 800rpm. I should prob reset the ignition timing now at the distributor.

woo hoo.
 
I like it! Black-out your grille, and leave the ARB painted!

The proof of the welds will be the first time you "turtle" it on one side, hefting the full weight of the truck. Did that with the Isuzu more times than I can count. Love them sliders.:hillbilly:
 
Thank you sirs

The next 4runner project will be a storage platform for the cargo area. I picked up a bunch of plywood and particle board on craigslist for free, so if anything i'll do a dry run or economy build. Prob cover it with some carpet. I'd rather use some nylon reinforced fiberglass mesh(milk crates) wherever possible.

I already removed the rear seat, so I'll also remove the metal folding backing plate so I can then incorporate the storage deck into the back seat passenger foot well.
I'm considering replacing the interior side panels with some home made metal ones with some cool locking storage access. I wonder about how to better attach them though, especially since they'll have greater mass and decapitation affect in the case of an accident. Think i'll incorporate some MOLLE/PALS panels into them, and elsewhere such as the rear interior roof.

Ideas ideas ideas...
 
so....


I picked up some Ball Joint spacers from 4crawler and they are waiting to be installed, maybe sometime end of next week. When those get slapped on I'll also add the diff drop kit donated by Matt Bascom. Thanks bud.

Now a question- Should I remove or disconnect the front sway bar? Search shows a mixed response.
The truck is driven mostly on road and it is my long distance wheeler, but IFS torsion bar trucks are more tippy and I'm not a fan of tippy. I don't take the corners very quickly anymore since i installed the autolocker, but there is always that emergency quick steer flinch potential.
Does the sway bar make more of a difference in slippery conditions where I may need to drift around corners and regain "control?"

I'm just thinking through all the known unknowns and seeking the unknown unknowns.

i'm prob the only person that considers drifting the lifted big tire 1st gen 4runner, but this has saved my ass a few times in my old dodge. No pucker factor like drifting around an accident at 50mph in the rain with a mid sized truck.
 
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so...

first shakedown run at Coal Miner went ok. The truck did most everything i wanted it to do, but not slowly enough. Pretty sure i'm going to go w/ dual stock cases in the future...but that is sometime in the future.

Damage: One window broke and confirmed that both my bumper mounts suck!

Front Bumper solution: build new bottom mounting brackets for the front ARB bumper. The PO of this bumper had modified them to fit on a 1st gen minitruck and slightly weakened the design. The bumper now tends to rotate in towards the grill of the truck, which is no bueno. I need to create a stockish bracket that counters this rotation.

this is what the bracket is supposed to look like. The 1st gen 4runner does not use the side bracket marked w/ a red circle. That bracket is used on the 2nd gen 4runner.

attachment.php

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/511739-arb-bull-bar-installation-question.html
but this is what my brackets look like
IMG_20130724_120335_361_zpsf65824ab.jpg


looks like with the missing material the brackets on my bumper have a greater tendency to bend down and allow the bumper to rotate. I can see some cracks in the metal and where the PO had tried to weld over them.

the plan is to make a new stockish bracket, slightly beefier, that will add length to the mount utilizing another bolt, so three M12 bolts instead of two, per bracket. I have some 1/4" steel plate and 3/16" thick 2"x2" steel square tube to work with.
I want to use the tube to bolt into the three captive nuts in the bottom of the frame where the stock tow hooks were, then weld the 1/4" plate along the outside of the tube and bumper tow hook location, marked with a blue circle in the first picture, then weld both pieces to the bumper.

Cut out the red so the outside plate lays against the bumper hook mount. I will cut a notch in the tube so the plate slips into it. see later pix to see what i mean.
IMG_20130724_120435_161_zps016b52c3.jpg


better pic of how the bracket will look, except the bumper hook mount will be on the inside of the front part of the bracket.
IMG_20130724_120508_281_zpscaad1177.jpg


I'm thinking a gusset along the inside bottom part of the plate and tube is a good idea. Another gusset toward the front inside might not be a bad idea. I think welding some 1" tube along the bottom of the bracket will be a good idea as those mounts will prob find themselves rubbing against rocks, but i don't have any of that. That might come at a later date. I"m thinking that the rear gusset should not be perpendicular to the tube like it is in the picture b/c that piece would tend to hook into obstacles, so instead the outside plate should be angled back and the corner cut into an obtuse angle with a gusset running along that obtuse angle connecting the plate and tube together.

outside view of bracket. note that the flats are not flush in the Y-Plane. I have to do this to shift the tube over a little to the outside to allow room to bolt it onto the frame.
IMG_20130724_120541_878_zps09ae92eb.jpg


close up of bracket
IMG_20130724_120745_821_zps808ed98e.jpg



idea for attaching side bracket to frame. Maybe run a piece of tube from that side mount circled in red to the bottom bracket. However, the strength of that is reliant upon the strength of the bottom mount. I'd like to have the side mount independent of the bottom mount, but i'm lacking room on the frame. The only thing i can think of is a piece of angle iron welded to a tube welded to a plate bolted to the side mount that is connected to the frame sandwiched between the frame and bottom bracket. Pardon the crappy mouse drawing.
df29f4ff-f106-4c5f-91d4-2853a4d7beba_zps43cac748.jpg


Thoughts or suggestions?

What do you think Matt, too complicated to weld up? I can cut the tube so it extends all the way to the front of the bracket so it can sandwich the plate between the bumper tow hook holes and the outer side of the tube. this way a piece of the tube runs all the way forward and can be welded indirectly to the side of the bumper. This will be a pretty thick weld though, 1/4"+1/4"+ 3/16" or only weld the plate to the side of the bumper and then bolt the forward portion of the tube to the plate/bumper.

the ARB bumper also only uses two bolts in the X-Plane that bolt into the front cross member. I would like to somehow add two more, but dunno how and where to put them. I'll take the bumper off later today or tomorrow to see what i have to work with. I had to chop off two of the stock brackets/captive nuts in order to put the bumper on before.
 
think i know why my truck was super easy to stall out too. Removing that screw that slowly lowers the idle when you remove foot from pedal prob allowed the idle to drop too quickly giving me my stalling problems and forcing me to give more gas than i wanted or let it stall. I'll have to put that screw back and just locktite it in place.
 

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