- Thread starter
- #21
I should have opened the code, I believe I just read the P0354 and left it at that. The coils should be here Friday, so will try once I get them and let ya know where I'm at, thanks again!
Multiple issues, need help diagnosing 4.7 V8 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gthoman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Good point, our mechanic always uses OEM.
- Thread starter
- #23
I'll let you know how it goes, since it got good reviews and stated "built to meet or exceed OE specifications" and has a limited lifetime warranty, decided to take a chance
Yes, I hope that work out. You don't want to be stuck somewhere because they failed, warranty or not.
I'm not an "OEM only" type, but when it comes to engine electrical components, I've found the alternatives are usually not worth the saved cost. I hope these give you good service and at least get you out of a jam, but the stockers gave you 245k, there's something to be said for that.
If you can access a more advanced code reader, you can usually pull "pending codes". That would allow you to see if the ecu is sensing issues that the lack of driving is concealing. Also, I would definitely open all code info. Knowing a specific coil pack is the issue gives you diagnostic info. If you suspect a specific coil, when your parts come in, switch just that coil then check driveability. I'd switch all after testing but then your mechanical failures wasn't just a mystery.
Lastly, make sure you swap your plugs while your coils are out. It would be a pity to have the failure be the plugs all along and install new coils and not solve your problem.
If you can access a more advanced code reader, you can usually pull "pending codes". That would allow you to see if the ecu is sensing issues that the lack of driving is concealing. Also, I would definitely open all code info. Knowing a specific coil pack is the issue gives you diagnostic info. If you suspect a specific coil, when your parts come in, switch just that coil then check driveability. I'd switch all after testing but then your mechanical failures wasn't just a mystery.
Lastly, make sure you swap your plugs while your coils are out. It would be a pity to have the failure be the plugs all along and install new coils and not solve your problem.
Pressurizing cooling system, runs rough, lack of power + misfires sort of leads me to a head gasket failure. If your radiator hoses are rock hard, my money is compression is entering the cooling system.
Given the work done, it can burp coolant as it works air out. I think it is a false positive, but if the coilpacks don't solve the misfire, I would also be scared of that as the next diagnostic step.
What did the plugs look like when you pulled them ? All of them the same ?
- Thread starter
- #29
So, I decided to go out tonight and try to start the car. I was able to get the car started and held the gas at about 2K RPM's and the car seemed to run fine, no hard hesitation and let it run for about 5 minutes, temp gauge got half way and held. As soon as I let go of the gas, the car turned off. I checked the codes and it had some pending codes. Those code were P0300, P0303, P0304 and P0306.
When I changed the plugs, they all looked pretty much the same, black bases, but looked like other plugs I have changed. I didn't notice any liquid on them.
Still look to be coils? or possible head gasket? or something else?
When I changed the plugs, they all looked pretty much the same, black bases, but looked like other plugs I have changed. I didn't notice any liquid on them.
Still look to be coils? or possible head gasket? or something else?
Almost certainly coilpacks.
- Thread starter
- #31
I'm REALLY hoping your right Dan, should get the coilpacks on Friday.
So your saying suddenly the radiator pops, then its throwing all of these codes, and it's most likely coil packs causing all of this ? Definitely keeping an eye on this thread, now you've got me hooked.
He did TB and WP. Either timing belt was put on wrong (if it is off by a tooth it won't run right) AND there is massive air in the system or he has bad coil packs. That many misfires is a little odd, but I would do coil packs first before tearing down the engine again.
I have seen pressure in the cooling system when it wasn't drained/burped properly. I have seen misfires on improper TB installs. I have seen bad coil packs. Working down the list.
- Thread starter
- #35
Hopefully know soon enough, first time doing a timing belt, but believe all marks lined up. quick questions:
Should I start by just replacing the coils on the misfire cylinders or just do them all?
And to properly "burp" the coolant, I need to:
-remove radiator cap
-start the car and put on the highest heat setting
-leave blower on low or off, I've heard people say both ways?
-let it run for a while and fill coolant as it need it
Thanks again....
Should I start by just replacing the coils on the misfire cylinders or just do them all?
And to properly "burp" the coolant, I need to:
-remove radiator cap
-start the car and put on the highest heat setting
-leave blower on low or off, I've heard people say both ways?
-let it run for a while and fill coolant as it need it
Thanks again....
The best way to burp the system is to raise the front of the truck so that the radiator cap is the highest point in the system and to aid in air evacuation. Put the heat on full heat, but the blower speed is irrelevant because the only reason for putting the heat on is to allow coolant into (and out of) the heater core to remove any air. Start the truck and watch the coolant level with the cap off. Once it starts to rise and overflow, put the cap back on. Let the truck run for a while and watch the gauges. A good indication of air in the system is the temp gauge reading warmed up but you have no hot air from the heater. If this is the case, shut the truck off and SLOWLY and CAREFULLY remove the radiator cap. Hopefully you get some air along with the coolant. I do this a few times until I have hot air from the heater vents. After that, the system will self bleed as long as there is coolant in the overflow.
Since you just did the TB, have you re-verified the timing? The reason I ask is it seems to be exhibiting the same symptoms as a skipped tooth on the belt. I just did the TB on a motor I am installing in my truck and I am 200% sure the timing marks were good. After doing a compression test and some other things I noticed that one bank was high and the other bank was low. I checked the timing marks for the cams and they were both off. I have no idea how this happened, perhaps the cams moved when I had the tensioner not installed. At any rate, verify the timing is 100% good and then go about bleeding the coolant.
Since you just did the TB, have you re-verified the timing? The reason I ask is it seems to be exhibiting the same symptoms as a skipped tooth on the belt. I just did the TB on a motor I am installing in my truck and I am 200% sure the timing marks were good. After doing a compression test and some other things I noticed that one bank was high and the other bank was low. I checked the timing marks for the cams and they were both off. I have no idea how this happened, perhaps the cams moved when I had the tensioner not installed. At any rate, verify the timing is 100% good and then go about bleeding the coolant.
alia176
SILVER Star
Just to muddy the water some more, I did a timing belt on the 4.7 and used the wrong mark on the engine for alignment. On the pass side, there is a "T" mark that my brain honed in on and used it to align the mark on the TB instead of a simple tick mark to the left(maybe it was to the right, can't recall now). In any case, she ran like a top throughout the entire RPM range BUT she had NO balls. When I stab the gas, she'd kinda bog down but none of the usual misfires and no CELs appeared.
After the correct timing mark used on the second go around, she has balls again. The point of my story is that I got no misfire codes, but she idled fine, started right up and acted normal otherwise. This is on a '03 4Runner
After the correct timing mark used on the second go around, she has balls again. The point of my story is that I got no misfire codes, but she idled fine, started right up and acted normal otherwise. This is on a '03 4Runner
That's correct, Ali. The timing marks to left of the "t" are the ones to use according to the manual. You set the crank at 0 degrees and use those marks. I have heard of others using the "T" marks because of the position of the cams having less valve spring pressure on them and therefore less likely to move. The FSM says to advance the left bank one full tooth and the right bank a half a tooth so it's easier to get the belt on. I followed this and timing marks were dead on.
oops
- Thread starter
- #40
So, for the timing marks, I did manually turn the crank so the cams did a couple loops and they lined up again, I did this before putting it all back together. Is there a faster/easier way to check the timing marks now without taking it all apart again?
I did see the "T" marks but I was using the notches, so hopefully good there.
I'm glad to hear your car ran fine with a couple of teeth off(even without balls), since the 4.7 on the 4runner should be the same 4.7 on the Lexus, still have hope for the coil packs, cause even thinking about taking it apart again does not give a good feeling. It does give me time in the garage and this job requires ALOT of beer, but would like to move on to something else.
I did see the "T" marks but I was using the notches, so hopefully good there.
I'm glad to hear your car ran fine with a couple of teeth off(even without balls), since the 4.7 on the 4runner should be the same 4.7 on the Lexus, still have hope for the coil packs, cause even thinking about taking it apart again does not give a good feeling. It does give me time in the garage and this job requires ALOT of beer, but would like to move on to something else.
